Rear Wheel Binding

[GLantern]

Finally finished freshening everything up for the season on my 12 ec300. I put my rear back on with new pads, tires, sprockets and chain. Regreased everything, the bearings have only 14 hours, and tightened it up. To my dismay the rear wheel is dragging BADLY when it is tightened. Video below....
https://vimeo.com/159440672


Any ideas here? I'm at my end with this bike, I'm guessing I need to replace the spacer in the hub. But I just read 4-6 weeks for that part from spain!! I'm schedule for my first enduro in 2 weeks, help!


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[hadfield4wd]

Spacer sounds right to me. You could possibly get the dimensions and get a machine shop to make it

 

[GLantern]

K, going to try Matto cycle tomorrow and see if he can get the part or machine it.


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[gasgasman]

It's either the spacer in the hub, or the spacer between the bearings on the sprocket side.

 

[barossi73]

Probably youve checked,but if not...Flip the rear caliper out the way and spin wheel to eliminate pad drag before you assume spacer.esp if you havent aligned chain/wheel/rear disc nice and straight and given the rear pedal a couple dabs and squared up pads.also dont overtorque the axle nut.if you loosen the axle nut slightly does it release the binding?while loose spin wheel a few times then retorque.
No changes in rear sprocket size?not dragging on the chain guide?

 

[Jakobi]

Probably youve checked,but if not...Flip the rear caliper out the way and spin wheel to eliminate pad drag before you assume spacer.esp if you havent aligned chain/wheel/rear disc nice and straight and given the rear pedal a couple dabs and squared up pads.also dont overtorque the axle nut.if you loosen the axle nut slightly does it release the binding?while loose spin wheel a few times then retorque.
No changes in rear sprocket size?not dragging on the chain guide?

Its in his video. Spins free while loose and as torqued up it drags.

Mine did the same a while back. It ended up being that one of the bearings had seized up on the side with 2x. When loose it must have allowed everything to still turn independently, however when pulling it all together it would add a load of drag. I also inspected the crush tube which did some some depression markings in each end where it had run against the inner races. I dressed this a little and gave it a good clean as well.

All back together with fresh bearings and have been very conscious not to over torque the rear nut (which is a nylon lock nut as well).

I'd have to check my notes to tell you how long ago it was, but she's still working a treat at the moment. There still is some drag coming from the chain guide, brake pads, etc.. but she definitely doesn't bind up like yours.. and definitely has more torque on it than in the video too!

 

[swazi_matt]

Most likely not it, but That chain looks too tight but difficult to see on the vid

 

[wence]

I had probs like this and it was the alloy spacer.
I pulled it out and found a sidchrome socket wrench handle,(knurled type), pushes in.
I then used this as a type of file until the axle slid in and out easily.
Mark

 

[imsimon]

Was the problem there before?

Could it be as simple as youve accidently put the adjusters (if thats what there called) in the wrong side? I did this by mistake and the rear wheel did as yours is, swapped them round and axle was then straight again and spins freely

 

[GLantern]

Was the problem there before?

Could it be as simple as youve accidently put the adjusters (if thats what there called) in the wrong side? I did this by mistake and the rear wheel did as yours is, swapped them round and axle was then straight again and spins freely

The adjusters haven't been moved, and the one on the brake side has the slot for the axle in it. I think it is right, but i'll double check this too.

Most likely not it, but That chain looks too tight but difficult to see on the vid

The chain is very loose, no worries there.

Its in his video. Spins free while loose and as torqued up it drags.

Mine did the same a while back. It ended up being that one of the bearings had seized up on the side with 2x. When loose it must have allowed everything to still turn independently, however when pulling it all together it would add a load of drag. I also inspected the crush tube which did some some depression markings in each end where it had run against the inner races. I dressed this a little and gave it a good clean as well.

All back together with fresh bearings and have been very conscious not to over torque the rear nut (which is a nylon lock nut as well).

I'd have to check my notes to tell you how long ago it was, but she's still working a treat at the moment. There still is some drag coming from the chain guide, brake pads, etc.. but she definitely doesn't bind up like yours.. and definitely has more torque on it than in the video too!

I probably over torqued it last time, i went cheap with my last set of bearings and I think i'm paying the price. Thanks for sharing your experience, this sounds a lot like what is happening to me.

 

[GLantern]

Probably youve checked,but if not...Flip the rear caliper out the way and spin wheel to eliminate pad drag before you assume spacer.esp if you havent aligned chain/wheel/rear disc nice and straight and given the rear pedal a couple dabs and squared up pads.also dont overtorque the axle nut.if you loosen the axle nut slightly does it release the binding?while loose spin wheel a few times then retorque.
No changes in rear sprocket size?not dragging on the chain guide?

I did not remove the caliper to check it, but i don't think this is the issue as it is loose up until a certain torque. If the pads were dragging I assume it would be binding as soon as the wheel is mounted and set by the adjusters. I took the bike for a lap around the block too to seat the pads, and it was still binding up.

Loosening it slightly does let the wheel spin freely, no changes in sprocket size or chain.

 

[john r b]

Ben, I had the same issue a while back. It was the alum. spacer had mushroomed. I ordered steel replacements. Wence has a great idea w/ the socket. Good luck.

John

 

[GLantern]

Ben, I had the same issue a while back. It was the alum. spacer had mushroomed. I ordered steel replacements. Wence has a great idea w/ the socket. Good luck.



John

The ones between the swing arm and bearings? Where did you get stainless replacements? Good to know thanks John

I talked to my dealer and they are sending me bearings along with new spacers. So I SHOULD be good. That tube in the hub is back ordered till next month.


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[barossi73]

I like your knurled ratchet handle fix.i have also used a chainsaw file in a cordless drill for similar work!