Removing flywheel help

Kendog

New member
Hey people

Just about to pull my flywheel to install a new 250watt stator
I've bought a puller but I forgot to purchase a flywheel stay tool.

You guys got any advice how to crack the nut off without the flywheel spinning?
Also is it left or right hand thread?
It's a 2002 ec200

Cheers
Ken
 
normal nut.


years ago my stepmother bought me a useless Christmas present. It was a pair of vicegrips with a chain. For holding plumbing pipes maybe. Why would a teenage motorcyclist want this? Gee thanks (can't imagine I bought her anything she wanted).

Years later I was looking to hold a flywheel without damaging it. (a backyard mechanic had already killed a stator for me using a gerryrigged through the holes jigger) Then it dawned on me. Fishes around in tool drawer
2910023.jpg

I use it all the time for this purpose & it distributes a small even force without slipping. fantastic. And cheap copies are available.
 
The crank nut is a right hand thread. Rotate the engine backwards so the piston is just above the transfer ports. Feed a bunch of nylon rope down the plug hole. When the piston tries to compress the rope, the crank will lock. Rotate it the opposite way when getting ready to tighten the flywheel nut.

The nut goes on at 50-52 ft-lbs. An impact wrench might help with the puller nut. It should put more energy into the job so your flywheel holding is easier. The more important flywheel holding is when you need to torque the nut after the flywheel goes back on.

If the primary cover was off, you could wedge a copper penny in the primary gears to hold the crank steady.
 
normal nut.


years ago my stepmother bought me a useless Christmas present. It was a pair of vicegrips with a chain. For holding plumbing pipes maybe. Why would a teenage motorcyclist want this? Gee thanks (can't imagine I bought her anything she wanted).

Years later I was looking to hold a flywheel without damaging it. (a backyard mechanic had already killed a stator for me using a gerryrigged through the holes jigger) Then it dawned on me. Fishes around in tool drawer
2910023.jpg

I use it all the time for this purpose & it distributes a small even force without slipping. fantastic. And cheap copies are available.

Hahaha that's brilliant, atleast you kept it and didn't throw it away.
Would a diesel filter strap work? You know the ones that are used on heavy plant??
You got me thinking now I operate a 25tonne excavator and I've seen the plant fitters use a strap and ratchet to take off tight filters and put them back on!!!

I'm fairly sure the crank nut is a right hand thread. Rotate the engine backwards so the piston is just above the transfer ports. Feed a bunch of nylon rope down the plug hole. When the piston tries to compress the rope, the crank will lock. Rotate it the opposite way when getting ready to tighten the flywheel nut.

The nut goes on at 50-52 ft-lbs. An impact wrench might help with the puller nut. It should put more energy into the job so your flywheel holding is easier. The more important flywheel holding is when you need to torque the nut after the flywheel goes back on.

If the primary cover was off, you could wedge a copper penny in the primary gears to hold the crank steady.

The nylon wire seems a good idea-not a solid material to cause any damage to the head and i have about 40meters in my garage!

Cheers lads
Been some good ideas

Ken
 
I have an airline impact which is great but best not to do the but up with it. Strap wrenches are OK but hard to operate on a loose object with a ratchet going the other way.
 
I've got an air compressor here with a few attachments but no impact gun.
I'll have to get one off eBay, would help with swingarm nuts and wheel nuts etc!
Hopefully have a go Sunday and I'll get some pics up

Cheers
Ken
 
Got to borrow one of these heavy little things
You hit the end with hammer and the insides turn a fraction in a selectable direction (impact socket)

This should help me crack the nut
 

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Don't wail on the flywheel nut. That tool might put a lot of force into the crankshaft because it's operation is based on hammer blows. An impact tool (air or electric) operates at a higher frequency and should deliver more rotational impact.

It's always better to use steadily increasing force to remove or tighten things. At 52 ft-lbs the nut should not feel exceptionally tight. The chain wrench is probably your safest bet.
 
I fully agree! Do not use the hammer impact! The bearings are not intended for side loading. You could put the bike in gear and hold it with the brakes, but I prefer using an impact gun.
 
Yeh I've taken on board your input
One of the lads at work has an electric snapon impact gun so I'm gonna borrow that bad boy ;)

Cheers
Ken
 
No need for any impact gun etc
Turned the flywheel so there was a gap between piston and cylinder head, removed spark plug and fed about 10" of rope In.

Socket set and a spanner on handle for more leverage and hey presto off cracked the nut!
Think I would have had a battle of I never bought the flywheel puller though!

Cheers for all the help guys
Even my old man said the rope trick was a very handy little idea and he has been building them since he was a boy

Currently owns (ducati 860gs, laverda jota 1000 and 2 ugly as sin bmw's)

Ken
 
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Sometimes you get these people who suggest the simplest of things that save money and time. I will get an impact gun but I've dropped ?500+ on my bike this month so I saved a few ? using the rope.

Over the moon ;)

Cheers
Ken
 
The rope trick works great, just make sure your piston is high enough in the stroke so that the ex. and transfer ports aren't exposed. I've seen guys feed a rope into the spark plug hole and then have it go into one of the ports. Can get ugly. Also motion pro makes a little nylon stud that screws into your sparkplug hole that works real well on 2-stroke motors.
 
The rope trick works great, just make sure your piston is high enough in the stroke so that the ex. and transfer ports aren't exposed. I've seen guys feed a rope into the spark plug hole and then have it go into one of the ports. Can get ugly. Also motion pro makes a little nylon stud that screws into your sparkplug hole that works real well on 2-stroke motors.

Copy this.

I've used both, and for the couple dollars for the threaded insert its almost as cheap as the rope method, and even easier again.

I generally like to apply some heat to anything which may have been fastened with loctite. Nothing too extreme, but just enough to weaken the loctite a bit.
 
Me being one of those silly guys that fed the rope into the transfer port. I can tell you that it locked up the engine solid on my son's kx100. I had to pull the whole top end apart and use a dead blow hammer to get the piston out. Luckily the piston was low enough to pull the pin.

That was so much fun!!!!!!!
 
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