removing forks and shocks - tips?
- Thread starter sbeec
- Start date
stainlesscycle
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the forks are easy. very straight forward. the shock can be a a pain. pipe needs to come off, rear wheel needs to come off. once you get everything loose, 'supposedly' you can finagle the shock out dependent upon the height of the swingarm... i've always had problems with this method and end up looseneing subframe, removing carb, etc...
rgranger
Gold Level Site Supporter
After Girard, GasGasMan, said that it could be done, I was able to get my shock off without removing the sides or subframe. Need to get the bike up high so that you can move the swingarm some to get room, but it does come out without pulling the damn filter boot, damn that was hard to get back on!!!
GMP
Active member
The pipe needs to come off on mine, silencer alone will not do it. Even so I sctatched the hell out of the powdercoat on my spring. All i needed was another mm or so so its likely a tolerance thing and works better on some bikes than others.
Another way, not neccessarily the best but an option, is to do it separate from the spring as long as the rings/body threads are clean. If you have a setup like my Sachs where the spring is slightly preloaded with the rings backed all the way out its a PIA. Otherwise, you can drop the spring through the swingarm first and then you have a lot more room to wiggle the shock out. This is also great for a spring only change.
Another way, not neccessarily the best but an option, is to do it separate from the spring as long as the rings/body threads are clean. If you have a setup like my Sachs where the spring is slightly preloaded with the rings backed all the way out its a PIA. Otherwise, you can drop the spring through the swingarm first and then you have a lot more room to wiggle the shock out. This is also great for a spring only change.
nambo-trev
New member
i just took my shock out yesterday and there was no way i was getting the ttx out without the swing arm removed. its not to big a deal to take the swing arm off, takes an extra 15 minutes and you can check out your linkage and swingarm bearings while its off!
Not bad...
well - that was pretty easy.....really...
Forks - straight forward as noted earlier. Only question is on the right side of the front axle is the pentagon shape inside the axle.
Back end - remove seat; side panels....then gas tank and rear sub frame - silencer of course - THAT's IT!
The the top shock bolt, rear bolt of the lower dog bone link, pivot the dog bone down which opens access to the lower shock bolt. Pop that bolt and the shock goes right up and out of the swing arm.
swing arms stays on and everything. here's the pics......
opps - I'll have to resize the photos - tomorrow......0430 comes early ......
well - that was pretty easy.....really...
Forks - straight forward as noted earlier. Only question is on the right side of the front axle is the pentagon shape inside the axle.
Back end - remove seat; side panels....then gas tank and rear sub frame - silencer of course - THAT's IT!
The the top shock bolt, rear bolt of the lower dog bone link, pivot the dog bone down which opens access to the lower shock bolt. Pop that bolt and the shock goes right up and out of the swing arm.
swing arms stays on and everything. here's the pics......
opps - I'll have to resize the photos - tomorrow......0430 comes early ......
motogroove
New member
Mounted my new shock spring last night.
On a 2001, no need to undo the dogbones. Remove the top bolt first. Lift the swingarm and observe the height in the swingarm travel where you can get a socket on the bottom bolt by going above the dogbone and below the swingarm. A one gallon paint can under the rear wheel holds it just about the right height for good access.
On a 2001, no need to undo the dogbones. Remove the top bolt first. Lift the swingarm and observe the height in the swingarm travel where you can get a socket on the bottom bolt by going above the dogbone and below the swingarm. A one gallon paint can under the rear wheel holds it just about the right height for good access.
motogroove
New member
I have a bolt with two nuts that all have a 19mm head. I have used that with a wrench for the vexing female front axle. But Really, I've rarely needed it, since things don't get screwed down overly tight up there. A 19mm hex key would work. But then there's this nifty gizmo available in lightweight trail version or heavyweight shop version.
Suddenly, I lust for both of them.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0355/
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0397/
-Dean
like a Pavlov dog
Hi, I'm Dean.
And I have a tool addiction problem...
nothing a tool or two can't fix.
