britishgas
New member
i have the 2012 300 racing, ohlins rear shock, riding sag 100mm my question is how many turns off the top collar will it take to bring it to 115 and will this give me a plusher suspension travel?
riding sag question
- Thread starter britishgas
- Start date
Bandit9
Platinum Level Site Supporter
In theory, 1 turn is "supposed" to be 2.5 to 3mm. In actual practice I find that to vary. Just turn it 5 times and re measure.
As far as making it plusher, not really. All you are doing with sag is setting the amount of weight bias placed on the front wheel. Less sag, like 100mm, puts more weight on the front wheel than 115mm.
115mm is a lot of sag. Most riders will be happy around 105-109mm. Try 105mm first.
As far as making it plusher, not really. All you are doing with sag is setting the amount of weight bias placed on the front wheel. Less sag, like 100mm, puts more weight on the front wheel than 115mm.
115mm is a lot of sag. Most riders will be happy around 105-109mm. Try 105mm first.
StuJohnson
New member
desertgasser300
Banned
You all provided some great info.
I like to run mine around 98mm......
I thought I was the only one. I wasn't going to say anything. Every time I reached 105 to 110 the bike was aweful. I think I even stopped at 95mm.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
What were you experiencing specifically? front end pushing?
nknudsen
Member
In what way was your bike awful with too much sag? (Jakobi you beat me to the question I guess)
desertgasser300
Banned
No, it was the overall balance and feel of the bike. And when I adjusted it that is where it felt the best for me.
DirtbikeMichigan
New member
so ya'll saying below 105, what are getting at the front end?
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Most people aim for around 30% of the travel. On my 2010 with the TTX I run around 65-65mm race sag on the forks. Haven't measured up the 2013 yet, but will do once they break in.
Looking at the spec sheets the 2013 models have a little more travel up front, and a little less at the rear than previous chasis (2011). Makes sense that they probably want a little more sag up front and a little less at the rear. The main thing to note is that its all just a starting point and what you really want to achieve is a balance that feels good for the rider and gets both ends working together. Remember the springs support the weight of the bike and rider. The damping controls the rate at which things move.
Looking at the spec sheets the 2013 models have a little more travel up front, and a little less at the rear than previous chasis (2011). Makes sense that they probably want a little more sag up front and a little less at the rear. The main thing to note is that its all just a starting point and what you really want to achieve is a balance that feels good for the rider and gets both ends working together. Remember the springs support the weight of the bike and rider. The damping controls the rate at which things move.
andoman
New member
My 2c: Trail
Excellent point. To elaborate further: springs and pre-load (what actually gives us our sag) affects trail. Trail has the number one affect on handling: The way the steering feels, the way the bike turns, the way the front end sticks, dives in, washes out, how stable it is at speed, etc., etc.
Valving, as jakobi pointed out, controls the actual action of the suspension.
As twowheels mentioned, the cross-over effects (where too much or too little sag meets contrary valving as a function of stroke position), is often the beginning of the tail chasing nightmare.
It is worth joining KTMTalk just to search "trail" and "offset" in the suspension sub-forum. Then read until your head explodes.
For all the crappy factory valving we GG riders have dealt with, we haven't been forced to experiment with every off-set t-clamp between 14mm and 22mm to chance upon the one that makes our front end go where we want it to.
Excellent point. To elaborate further: springs and pre-load (what actually gives us our sag) affects trail. Trail has the number one affect on handling: The way the steering feels, the way the bike turns, the way the front end sticks, dives in, washes out, how stable it is at speed, etc., etc.
Valving, as jakobi pointed out, controls the actual action of the suspension.
As twowheels mentioned, the cross-over effects (where too much or too little sag meets contrary valving as a function of stroke position), is often the beginning of the tail chasing nightmare.
It is worth joining KTMTalk just to search "trail" and "offset" in the suspension sub-forum. Then read until your head explodes.
For all the crappy factory valving we GG riders have dealt with, we haven't been forced to experiment with every off-set t-clamp between 14mm and 22mm to chance upon the one that makes our front end go where we want it to.
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