Right side out case removal problem - Help!

[rickster2]

I'm dealing with the broken water pump impeller issue. Mark at Gofasters is sending the parts (Thanks Mark). I want to remove the whole WP assembly (WP housing and the portion of the case that surrounds the clutch) - I'll call it the clutch/WP housing portion of the engine case.

I've removed all bolts from WP cover and the clutch/WP housing. I can pull the rear portion of the housing from the center case but the front of the housing is resisting removal. I small gap has opened but I cannot completely remove it.

I'm guessing that there is some corrosion around a index pin and I am resisting the urge to pry it off. I have not missed removing any bolts like I usually find when I have this kind of problem

Am I missing anything?

Rick
2012 GG 300

 

[gasn4christ]

Pics??? I think I almost kinda understand what your explaining. I've got the same bike and mine is apart now soooo.... Pics?

 

[bonkeye]

once all the bolts are out should just pull off but push with your thumb on the kick start shaft so you dont pull that aswel easier just to leave it in place on the engine

 

[StuJohnson]

I had the very same issue when I went to remove mine. There is a dowel right at the water pump. And that dowel was pretty rusty which was the reason mine was so hard to get off. I just kept working it back and forth and pried it off eventually.

Once off I cleaned the dowel up very well with emery cloth and then during installation I covered it with Motor Assembly Lube from Honda.

Be patient it will come off.....

 

[rickster2]

Thanks StuJohnson...that is exactly where mine is hanging-up. I'll keep working it

 

[Jakobi]

Rubber mallet and some light tapping back and forward will help with the process.

 

[john r b]

I had similar issues, and took a piece of alum angle iron,drilled two holes corresponding with the water pump cover,and used the angle as leverage wiggling back and forth until free. it did take awhile as I was extra cautious.
The dowel was rusty as well.

 

[desertgasser300]

I had similar issues, and took a piece of alum angle iron,drilled two holes corresponding with the water pump cover,and used the angle as leverage wiggling back and forth until free. it did take awhile as I was extra cautious.
The dowel was rusty as well.

How is the dowel getting rusty. Are you running just plan water in the system?

Coolant will become acidic if not changed every so often, or if non-distilled water was used, or if different types of antifreeze were mixed (either by adding a different type or by not flushing thoroughly, or by using one of the organic acid-based extended life coolants.

 

[pscook]

How is the dowel getting rusty. Are you running just plan water in the system?

Coolant will become acidic if not changed every so often, or if non-distilled water was used, or if different types of antifreeze were mixed (either by adding a different type or by not flushing thoroughly, or by using one of the organic acid-based extended life coolants.

The dowel gets rusty as water gets around the bolt head and rusts from the inside out. Very common, even on Japanese bikes (in my experience). You need to put a dab of sealant around the bolt mating surface during installation to prevent further occurrences.

 

[john r b]

C'mon plain water really.... Go out to your bike and take a close look. The bolt hole goes THROUGH the case. I realize in AZ you don't get the rain amounts
as others. A little dab of silicone solved the problem.

 

[rosco]

Coolant doesn't ever get exposed to this dowel. Like said in earlier post's just clean it up as good as you can and then squirt a little silicone down into the thread hole. Put a little anti seize on the bolt and dowel pin before installing. The excess silicone will squirt out the backside of the bolt hole and the anti seize will keep the bolt from sticking to the silicone.
I see this problem a lot on many different models. At least you should be glad that the bolt wasn't seized to the aluminum from corrosion.

 

[thumperflipper]

BOTH dowel pins on my bike were corroded when I first pulled it off a couple years ago, I had more trouble with the one on the rear, used a rubber mallet and small long drift (padded tip) from the other side of the bike to help gently free it. Put Yamalube waterproof race grease on both pins and they have come apart easily ever since. Point is no coolant anywhere near the back dowel.

 

[StuJohnson]

The dowel gets rusty as water gets around the bolt head and rusts from the inside out. Very common, even on Japanese bikes (in my experience). You need to put a dab of sealant around the bolt mating surface during installation to prevent further occurrences.

Thanks Phil for explaining this in more detail !!! This is exactly what had happened to mine.
When I did reassemble I only used some BelRay Assembly Lube and Honda Anti Seeze but did not put some sealant around the bolt. I suppose I should pull back apart and reseal. Guessing it would be easier to do now then in the future.

ONE QUESTION I HAVE: That specific dowel will not come out of the side cover. I did not try all that hard but could not get it to budge. Do you think I should get it out and clean up or just leave it alone? Main reason I did not try too hard is that I did not think I could salvage it and then actually getting a replacement would be a long wait.....

 

[pscook]

Thanks Phil for explaining this in more detail !!! This is exactly what had happened to mine.
When I did reassemble I only used some BelRay Assembly Lube and Honda Anti Seeze but did not put some sealant around the bolt. I suppose I should pull back apart and reseal. Guessing it would be easier to do now then in the future.

ONE QUESTION I HAVE: That specific dowel will not come out of the side cover. I did not try all that hard but could not get it to budge. Do you think I should get it out and clean up or just leave it alone? Main reason I did not try too hard is that I did not think I could salvage it and then actually getting a replacement would be a long wait.....

Soak it in PB Blaster or other penetrant oil, then a light heating and it should spin out with soft-jawed pliers. Worst case you damage the dowel and have to source one from any OEM parts shop. 10mm OD (I think?), very common. I'll check my parts bin (ie: shop floor) and see what I have kicking around. I know that I have swapped dowels around during assembly of other engines in the past, the GG ones are too similar to be any different. Wait, I just jinxed it.

 

[Rooki]

First post here as working on the GasGas engine in my new (to me) Christini for the first time. I found this thread helpful in identifying the location of the dowel the cover was hanging up on. As mentioned previously, using a drift carefully from behind and catching the slight edge of the cover worked the best for me. Here is a pic that may help those trying to visualize where the front dowel is (I had no issues with rear):

 

[bluespark]

I had similar issues, and took a piece of alum angle iron,drilled two holes corresponding with the water pump cover,and used the angle as leverage wiggling back and forth until free. it did take awhile as I was extra cautious.
The dowel was rusty as well.

^^^This plus a little heat did the trick. I could also used the wood piece as a (gentle) slide hammer. I'll be using koprkote on reassembly.

[/IMG]

 

[Zman]

Nice idea!