SACHS fork thread

[jra_enduro]

Hi
I have tried to search both the forum and the net but did not find much therefor im trying to start this thread.
I have 2 new GG 300 with the sachs fork on and we have figured out after only a hour of riding that the fork is to soft for Swedish riding and Swedish vikings that weights around 90kg
So what im looking for first of all is new harder springs (5,6 should work fine i guess) So can anyone tell what springs that fits this fork?

Then it comes to oil. What viscosity should i run? Normaly on the bikes i have ride before we have used ?hlins road and track oil 5W and that have worked flawless in both MZ and KYB.
And what oillevel should we have, around 110mm? We ride rocky and woody trails mostly here.

Then we come to the valves have anyone tried to revalve and how did a good working stack(is it correct in english?) look like

So can anyone help me out here?

 

[moto9]

Hi
I have tried to search both the forum and the net but did not find much therefor im trying to start this thread.
I have 2 new GG 300 with the sachs fork on and we have figured out after only a hour of riding that the fork is to soft for Swedish riding and Swedish vikings that weights around 90kg
So what im looking for first of all is new harder springs (5,6 should work fine i guess) So can anyone tell what springs that fits this fork?

Then it comes to oil. What viscosity should i run? Normaly on the bikes i have ride before we have used ?hlins road and track oil 5W and that have worked flawless in both MZ and KYB.
And what oillevel should we have, around 110mm? We ride rocky and woody trails mostly here.

Then we come to the valves have anyone tried to re-valve and how did a good working stack(is it correct in english?) look like

So can anyone help me out here?

What size Sach fork is it, the marz 45 and sach 45 are basically the same fork with some minor differences, Go fasters should have the springs you need.
5 wt oil is a standard for most late model forks, oil level between 120 to 110.
Valving is a big ???...There are only a few tuners that know what to do to get the sach fork and shock to work properly....the other issue is shims.

The fork is defiantly over damped and under sprung for most.
Going to a heavier spring is a good move but you'll have rebound issues that will need to be addressed in the valving.
I suggest to anyone that is not at least somewhat knowledgable about suspension tuning pay to have a good tuner do it for you.

I personally spent hours re-valving and re-valving again to get my suspension to work right, I had a good supply of shims on hand and sort of know what I'm doing...with some guess work thrown in!
The other thing that needs attention is the mid valve and the whole system needs to be set-up to work together so you keep the cavitation to a minimum.
LT racing is a good choice, a friend used them and he said the bike was like night and day difference.
If you ride a lot and want your steed to really work like it should...suspension if the first place to start and IMHO well worth the money..he spent something like $800.00 for everything...including springs and parts.

 

[dcg141]

Richard at House of Horsepower has been doing alot of work on the Sachs forks and I spoke with him today. They have the ability to make springs and he is also stamping out shims for the Sachs. He found the stock spings to actually be too short. http://www.houseofhorsepower.com/