Seal Doctor

GMP

Active member
The hanger queen '12 down meant riding my '07 this weekend. Not a bad thing except for the leaky right fork seal. After a friends success and recommendation of the Seal Doctor just before the Hancock ride, I added one to my last order from Rocky Mountain. Well, used as instructed it works! I mean my fork was leaking bad, oil on the floor bad, and this did the trick. You could see the dirt on the plastic hook. One side cleans the seal, the other the wiper. They even recommend going through your seals as preventative maintenance. Maybe a good idea after a real muddy ride.

http://www.riskracing.com/pages/Seal_Doctor_Page.html
 
Risk has some cool stuff. I use their 'Lock n Load' setup and it works great for me, only downer is that you have to back the bike into it to avoid the pipe. Maybe that Arrow pipe would clear it ???? Hmmm.....
 
Only down side is that it is so difficult to get the wipers out of the sachs tubes

+55 thousand!! Its the hardest part of getting the forks apart. I had to start with a fine blade knife, then progress to a small screw driver, then medium, then large, just to pry the dust seal back. Sweet FA chance of getting it done while they're still on the bike.
 
Is the anodizing rough in that area or are they just sized small? My 45s are re-anodized, and the edge area where the ID and OD meet are more rough than normal. Seal grease helps a lot. Next time I have them apart I'll buff this smoother. The Zoke 48s are easy. Both are plenty easy doing with the forks on the bike.
 
Is the anodizing rough in that area or are they just sized small? My 45s are re-anodized, and the edge area where the ID and OD meet are more rough than normal. Seal grease helps a lot. Next time I have them apart I'll buff this smoother. The Zoke 48s are easy. Both are plenty easy doing with the forks on the bike.
i think they are just small. i have never had this kind of issue before and used to take dust sliders off regularly to clean them on previous bike.
Next full service i may try a bit of sandpaper to smooth them out and round the edge a bit to help get them in
 
Risk has some cool stuff. I use their 'Lock n Load' setup and it works great for me, only downer is that you have to back the bike into it to avoid the pipe. Maybe that Arrow pipe would clear it ???? Hmmm.....
I use the Lock n Load and push it in forward. You have to have it locked down then after it clears the pipe you can pop it up. A little hassle but it works great in my toy hauler garage!
 
Thats pretty nice, but at $179 a little pricy to outfit a trailer with three of them.
 
i think they are just small. i have never had this kind of issue before and used to take dust sliders off regularly to clean them on previous bike.
Next full service i may try a bit of sandpaper to smooth them out and round the edge a bit to help get them in

I dont remember mine feeling rough and I spent a lot of time playing around. They took quite a bit of force to get them to seat in the upper leg too. I actually used the fork and slid it down and bottomed to press them in. I think they're just a tight fit.
 
Stock anodizing should not be rough, my 45s are because they have been re done inside and out in T3 hardcoat, and I suppose the current density in the bath near that edge area is high.
 
good question as I have his seals on the ktm,, I think I'm going to get one of these seal tools to keep around..
 
Just used it on my grandsons KTM SX65;worked like a charm. I've now used it on my 08 Husky WB165, 2010 Husky TC250, 2011 Kaw 450, 2001 Honda CR250, and the little pumpkin. Best cheap tool I've ever purchashed.
 
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