Good question. Better even would be a list of tolerances for when things are in spec and out of spec. Everyone rides a little different and as such many variables at play, but we all know when a wheel has play it needs new bearings etc.
I've been doing my pistons around 80hrs and they ring end gaps are still well in spec.
Good question. Better even would be a list of tolerances for when things are in spec and out of spec. Everyone rides a little different and as such many variables at play, but we all know when a wheel has play it needs new bearings etc.
I've been doing my pistons around 80hrs and they ring end gaps are still well in spec.
true, I am coming up to a piston change (close to 80hrs), but want to know if i should do bottom end at the same time ... for starters!
have looked in the manual, but as usual they are wanting you to change piston after about 3 tanks ... could the factory keep up with this if we all did that??
Lower end will go hundreds of hours if your good with filters and quality mix. Just check the rod side clearance and eyeball the bearing through the slots for discoloration. Piston at 80 - 100 is good. Don't even bother with rings, do it all then. If your ring end gap is growing and compression is dropping off sooner than that there is a problem elsewhere, like with oil/mix or your filter. This has been my experience over the years with the 250s for an average rider. Remember aluminum pistons fatigue, sometimes before they are worn out past spec. I have an original S3 Vertex piston from my '07 with over 80 hrs that still has most of the coating on it. 36:1 premix is a key elememt to very long engine life.
true, I am coming up to a piston change (close to 80hrs), but want to know if i should do bottom end at the same time ... for starters!
have looked in the manual, but as usual they are wanting you to change piston after about 3 tanks ... could the factory keep up with this if we all did that??