Sever Dragging Clutch on 05 EC300

Dirk D

New member
I have an 05 300, that the clutch drags severely in, as in you cant even feather the clutch. This has happened with the stock clutch ,and the cr250 clutch mod ( i assumed a steel plate had warped, causing the drag. So I did the mod just because). Needless to say, it drags worse with the mod, than the stock clutch. I used the suzuki spacer, and surface ground it to 1.85mm. Also put a dowel rod in the clutch pin, to make sure the master cylinder is lifting the pressure plate as much as possible (ie minimal slop from when the clutch rod begins pushing on the pressure plate). I was using maxima mtl 80w oil, and also used new cr springs on the pressure plate. The clutch basket did not have any grooves, and neither did the clutch hub. I have tooken the clutch apart 3 times now, the last , I checked all of the steels on a surface plate to ensure flatness.

Also, new fluid in the clutch master, and bleed to ensure no air. The lever feels firm with no sponginess.

The only thing i have noticed, is the pressure plate doesn't lift entirely even, but were are talking .01-.02".
How much does the pressure plate lift off of the pack?
 
You should get at least 1mm wiggle on a plate with the lever in. Shave the spacer some more, you might find your CR plates are a tad thicker than you wanted.

Only shave a small amount at a time though, I found with my barnett clutch the inner hub started rubbing the outer hub when I went too thin.
 
There is also the option of making a longer clutch pushrod.

Ok, I'm getting 1mm of throw out of the master cylinder. Also I made the pushrod longer, added a dowel rod inside the push pin to decrease cleareance between the pin the and dowel rod.
 
let me start this with a disclaimer...(not a great wrench) but I had my clutch apart like you have had and was getting nowhere..I am not a clutch abuser either...

my 01 300 always drug.. did the cr mod, it was no better.. was really scratching my head.. talked to an old m/c buddy and he suggested mixing some gg (thinner) fibers in to get clearance... never even considered it.. but it worked.. I think I either had 2 or 3 gg fibers in the cr stack... pow.. clutch with no drag.. worked fine..


edit... just re read that original thread on the cr conversion and stainless talked about using some gg fibers in the mix
 
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Good idea. I just did this, had 3 gg fibers, and have it so tight stack up wise with the clutch push rod, that the pressure plate isnt tight against the clutch pack with the gg fibers. At least 3 of them
 
I think I started with 2.. ended up with 3. it has been along time ago..

hope it works for you..
 
man.. those sure don't look that bad...
don't happen to know anyone else close with a gasser who would let you swap parts ?
 
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Got the clutch packs on the surface plate, and did some measuring. Im not sure how the CR clutch would ever work! The GG measured 32.512 MM on the surface plate. The CR stack measures 35.48mm.20161005_125205.jpg


Then I measured with the stack on the hub, with the hub sitting on their respective washers. The GG stack on the hub measured 39.37 MM from the face of the washer. The CR stack on the hub measured 41.28 MM. Which explains why I had to add the extension on the push rod. 20161005_130125.jpg

Even with some GG fibers, I dont see the the stack up being close enough to make it work.
 
Ok, drilled holes in the webbing on the basket to let oil flow, smoothed all notches, AND put the suzuki washer in there. No drag, smooth as silk. Ill provide a report after a ride for an squals or slipping
 
This is the other half of the equation, if you don't get the free play and piston travel right in the master you will never stop the drag and growl, once it's set correctly, after 15mins of clutch heavy riding the drag goes away. The trick is not mistaking the spring on the plunger as the plunger hitting the piston, that amount of lost travel will cause drag.

This video is the goods. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hdHmiNNgL2I
 
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