Starter Only engages 1/3 of the time .

Does anyone know what the 2 washers on either side of the Bendix are for or what they do?? The parts fiche shows them but all I recieved in my kit where 2 of these washers any help would be great
esygadyn.jpg


They look more like shims to me and putting this in first before the Bendix makes no sense
 
Ok thanks that makes more sense. Do you know of the washers I'm speaking of on the parts fiche then? Or does the Bendix just drop into the stator cover as it comes? Also how do I know if I need the shims? Just to take out any play in the Bendix housing?
 
The size is wrong for bendix shims. The stock shims have an 8mm bore. One goes above and one goes below the bendix. They just prevent wear on the faces of the soft aluminum flywheel cover and top cap. They don't really shim anything. The bendix must cam fully open and bottom out on it's own clip ring (under the heavy washer on the bottom of the bendix shaft).
 
Is there any way I can just make a couple out of shim stalk? If so does anyone know the bore of the hole and the total diameter of the washer and it's thickness?
 
.2mm x 8mm x 14mm, I'm not sure about the 14, but that's a common shim size. What does the heavy washer on the bottom of the bendix measure for diameter? The shim washer was slightly smaller. More details sent by PM.
 
Awesome thx Neil I made some at work out of 304 stainless c shims for our compressors. Drilled them out 8mm and stamped them. Should be good to go thx a bunch for your help(again)
 
Well I tried what Neil had told me by camming the Bendix out to find the ideal spacing. Works great then I tried the spring streching on the fly weights and I just had to laugh. It works flawlessly now. I measured the ID with a mic before and after on the spring rolling it down a wine bottle and the difference was negligible maybe like Neil had said before .015 difference. Anyway I think that this should be a friggin sticky it's so effective and easy(once you've read the previous posts from rosco and Neil) I really think anyone can get there starter working great with little work just have to take a little time reading. Thanks again guys much appreciated
 
nambo-trev said:
Well I tried what Neil had told me by camming the Bendix out to find the ideal spacing. Works great then I tried the spring streching on the fly weights and I just had to laugh. It works flawlessly now. I measured the ID with a mic before and after on the spring rolling it down a wine bottle and the difference was negligible maybe like Neil had said before .015 difference. Anyway I think that this should be a friggin sticky it's so effective and easy(once you've read the previous posts from rosco and Neil) I really think anyone can get there starter working great with little work just have to take a little time reading. Thanks again guys much appreciated
Click to expand...




Which post mate i'd search but its painfully slow on my phone here!
 
It's actually this one, page 2 and 3 rosco explains the spring and Neil explains the caming of the bedix and checking for engagement.
 
Still fuzzy - side case gasket, spring streching?

First off, I can't thank everyone enough for taking the time to help out by commenting on all the fixes and settings necessary to fix the starter problems so many people have encountered.

I believe my starter needs to be shimmed off the cylinder head after reading through the dozens of posts. I think that might actually be a big part of the problem now that I'm thinking about it.

Next, my dealer gave me the gaskets to shim the starter but I didn't see any improvements when shimming out with the thicker than stock gasket. How do I know what thickness is right?

I have pulled my starter at least 4 times messing around trying to figure out what was wrong. I can extend the bendix by hand but can't see any spring to pull out. How in the world do you take this spring out to measure / stretch? If anybody has a picture of when they did theirs please post? I'm concerned about damaging the spring and having to spend $$$ because of my own stupidity.

Thanks again for taking the time to respond. Maybe I will take some pictures the next time I dig into mine and try to gather all the info into one post for future Gassers?
 
The spring in question wraps around the sprag elements. It's a dainty little thing that is visible with the bendix cammed out by hand. The spring is under the sheet metal cover. An oring pick or hooked scriber will easily lift it off.
 
Thank you!

Neil E. said:
The spring in question wraps around the sprag elements. It's a dainty little thing that is visible with the bendix cammed out by hand. The spring is under the sheet metal cover. An oring pick or hooked scriber will easily lift it off.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification, I will mess with it this weekend and take some pics. Hopefully I can get this thing working. It's only been a year. :mad:
 
I haven't messed with the spring yet but I tried the shim kit for the ignition cover last night. I went from the stock .6mm gasket to the blue .8mm gasket and added a 1.6mm washer to space the starter out from the pv cover. I'm running a shorai bat and my starter engaged cranked and fired the cold bike 100% of the time last night in my drive.

I'll check back with a long term test but even if it cranks the bike 50% of the time it will be an improvement.

Edit: looks like I spoke too soon. Checked it this morning on my way out the door and it is back to it's old shenanigans. Back to the drawing board.
Perhaps the gasket material compressed over night? I'm going to add the thin shim as well and see where that gets me. Next it's on to spring stretching...
 
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KTM Re Start 2 T's

Just a little FYI The Pre 2012 Re Start (E Start) on all of the KTM 250/300's XC XCW's was just as much of a hit or miss (especially when the bikes are over a year old) as You are seeing with the Gassers. 2013 seen some changes in the starter motor and bendix and the results are pretty good. We have been changing many of the pre 2012's over but :confused:I M O who needs E start on a 2 T anyways. I guess we do now as our new 2 T Sherco's are E Start only but it is a very effecient design. BTW we have been doing KTM's since 2006 so we have a fair handle on what works and doe's not. Thanks,Paul
 
Well, I tried stretching the spring(stretched OD ~ 2.25"), checking my gear lash, and tried every gasket in the kit and didn't see any huge improvement.

I don't need estart per say but I paid for it. We also have hill climbs in the areas I ride (CO, AZ, NM, UT) that are miles long and kicking the bike on them if you stall is a real pain if it's even possible.

Bat was showing a full charge and I had it on the tender for part of the time.

I guess I'll see how the bike performs when warm as it's always been a little better then, but right now I'm pretty disappointed.

Edit: what constitues "good" backlash? I put the stock thickness gasket back in today, and there is certainly some decent "wiggle room" probably ~1/32" of movement at the gear tooth. with the thick gasket it was just under ~1/16". I didn't put a dial indicator on it, that is just all "calibrated eyeball"

Thanks again everyone for posting what works for you, I'm not giving up yet.
 
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