Sticking throttle question?

rgranger

rgranger

Gold Level Site Supporter
cable is new, throttle tube is free. can ride it all day in the flat bits and breaking bumps and not have an issue. Get into some serious whoops or this washed out area that I test on and it will hang wide open until you kill the motor and restart. it is almost like it is some sort of vacuum thing? I was wondering if the slide could be bouncing about, but that seems pretty far out there (and I have the strong return spring in).

This was supposed to be a weekend to shake out the suspension rebuild that Brent helped me with, turned out to be slightly less fun and a lot more scary.

Do the slides wear at 40 hrs? Bent needle?
 
Cable lock wired on at BOTH ends ?
Dubious cable routing?

MotionPro do a cable which threads in at both ends and cant have the throttle go wide open by the cable being snagged by something.
You would have to be pretty unlucky to have a worn carb after 40 hours.
 
Sorry, yes I have the motion pro that girard posted about a few weeks ago, it is fully captured at both ends. see, screwier and screwier...
 
rgranger said:
Sorry, yes I have the motion pro that girard posted about a few weeks ago, it is fully captured at both ends. see, screwier and screwier...
Click to expand...

Perplexing.

If its only started doing it recently, could be crud in the carb somewhere? Pull the carb apart and have a look around.
I wouldn't think there would be enough of a vacuum to hold the slide wide open, even at full rpm.
 
That is my next step, I have flushed everything that I can with carb cleaner on the bike - I dread taking that @#$%@Q carb off. That and the double @#^$ air filter with the battery box. I swear I think that, depending on which I am working on, they assembled the bike around the carb or air filter.
 
rgranger said:
That is my next step, I have flushed everything that I can with carb cleaner on the bike - I dread taking that @#$%@Q carb off. That and the double @#^$ air filter with the battery box. I swear I think that, depending on which I am working on, they assembled the bike around the carb or air filter.
Click to expand...

They are Spanish.

Have you tried the 'flip the subframe up' method?
Remove muffler, remove lower 2 subframe bolts, loosen top 2 bolts, loosen airbox side carb hose clamp and just flip the whole subframe up, makes it a fair bit easier to get at the carb.
 
noobi said:
They are Spanish.

Have you tried the 'flip the subframe up' method?
Remove muffler, remove lower 2 subframe bolts, loosen top 2 bolts, loosen airbox side carb hose clamp and just flip the whole subframe up, makes it a fair bit easier to get at the carb.
Click to expand...

i remove the 2 upper subframe bolts, and loosen the lower.easier for me to remove the top ones then the lower ones....
 
my 06 300 seemed to have a habit of going wfo in or after a whoops section. It happened about 3 times. After thinking about it, all three times were after i had crossed some "sort of" deep water. I attributed it to water getting sucked into the carb and perhaps some fine sand getting in. Pull your needle off look at it closely and see if you see any scratches on it. put a magnifying glass to it just to make sure. if there are scratches on it that is from grains of sand getting stuck between the needle and the nozzle. I'd bet you'll find some scratched on that needle.

only once did I have to shut the bike down. Uusually I could pull the clutch and then blip the throttle a few times and it would clear the obstruction. After I rode through deep water I made it a point not to crack the throttle wfo. If the bike hung on me, for the rest of the ride I would go no more than half throttle. I got a pretty good feel for when it might go wfo and was always ready with the clutch and brakes.

and in line fuel filter might not hurt
 
Last edited:
What skid said, and all you have to do is take the drain plug out of the bowl and check for sand/dirt. Its gets sucked up and jams the needle in the nozzle.
 
I will pull the needle and check that, check for grit in the bowel and install a filter and see what that does. I still may pull the tank and drain and rinse it.
 
Any grit will almost certainly have come in through the carb vent lines. Now in TX water is less of a problem but sand and dust is. Route the pair from the vertical fittings up high and run the small filters.
 
Oh, I didn't think about dust going back up the tubes!
Guess I need about 6 of those little inline bullet filters :)

Any good source for them online, if it isn't truck size, they don't have them here in Katy. I was tyring to find standard bullet fuel filters and would have thought one of the motorcycle superstores would have had some, but no! Well, they did have $40 filters...
 
you might drain your gas tank and see if the petcock screen is still in place. I was finding crud in my carb bowl on my 2011. This winter when I pulled the tank I heard something banging around inside my tank when I drained it. Out came the petcock screen. bike has an inline filter on it now ....
 
Thanks Skid,
I noticed that my fuel line had started getting hard, so I was going to replace it and put an inline filter in also. That said, I am going to have a look inside and flush the heck out of the tank.
 
Glenn, I ordered some stuff from your guy!

the extreme carb lines are supposed to be here friday. and i bought a few extra of the filters for the ktm.

I pulled the bowel and there was some stuff floating in there. very fine, almost looked like magic fairy dust, the crap that kills ya!

Now, back to the forks....
 
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