eff
Silver Level Site Supporter
I wonder about this. Maybe it is being marketed as Dow Corning GN.
http://www.jetlube.com/jetlube/uploads/pdf/crossreferencepdf/dow.pdf
http://www.jetlube.com/jetlube/uploads/pdf/crossreferencepdf/dow.pdf
Swingarm and Linkage Bearings
- Thread starter blitz11
- Start date
GMP
Active member
The online catalog from mcmaster-carr (mcmaster.com) has changed a bit but I beleive this is the same stuff:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#10625k11/=1fonlw
I'm down to less than half a can so maybe I'll order one. Like I said it makes great anti-seize as well.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#10625k11/=1fonlw
I'm down to less than half a can so maybe I'll order one. Like I said it makes great anti-seize as well.
Sorry for the regression here...
Are there any tricks to disassembling the swingarm linkage, or is as straightforward as it looks?
I read mention that the bearings are uncaged. Does that imply special care is needed to avoid scattering the needles?
Can the o rings typically be reused, or is it prudent to order up replacements before disassembling things?
Are there any tricks to disassembling the swingarm linkage, or is as straightforward as it looks?
I read mention that the bearings are uncaged. Does that imply special care is needed to avoid scattering the needles?
Can the o rings typically be reused, or is it prudent to order up replacements before disassembling things?
GMP
Active member
Swingarm off first, shock, then linkage as a unit. Break main rocker bolt loose while on the bike first though. For reassembly, assemble the linkage as a unit on the bench and leave everything hand tight. I like to insert the swingarm pivot without the swingarm to align the brackets, and just make the main pivot bolt and bracket mounts snug enough not to fall out of position. Shock next. Swingarm last. Tighten everything up with a load on the suspension.
Bearings are uncaged but needles are retained by lip at the edge. If they are really hammered they may fall apart though. If good just clean in place, dry and repack. Always new o-rings.
Bearings are uncaged but needles are retained by lip at the edge. If they are really hammered they may fall apart though. If good just clean in place, dry and repack. Always new o-rings.
I can confirm that it is indeed Jet-Lude Marine Moly 65005.
Skidad
New member
Tom Blake of Jet-Lube said that the MP-50 Moly Paste (code 28003 for 1lb can) is a better choice than the Marine Moly (code 65005 for 1 lb can) sold on the MacMaster Carr site. I don't believe they carry the 28003 MP-50. Both are similar and will work but if you have the choice.......
http://www.jetlube.com/jetlube/uploads/pdf/msdspdf/mp50.pdf
http://www.jetlube.com/jetlube/uploads/pdf/msdspdf/mp50.pdf
blitz11
Silver Level Site Supporter
I went looking for Full Complement bearings to replace the Moose Stuff that I had. My local bearing supplier was unable to locate full complement bearings (full complement being w/o cage, providing more needles, and higher operational loads). The bearing I was after was an NSK F-2216 (F = Full Complement). I ended up with NSK HK-2216 and NSK HK-1612. These are German bearings, good quality. I paid $5 for the 2216, and $3 for the 1612. However, they are caged.
My guess is that the capacity is less as you have a cage, but you can pack more lube in with the cage. I haven't installed these yet, but I will once I get some time. I also bought the Jet Lube, but haven't used it, either.
These HK bearings are the exact same bearings that Kawasaki used/uses in the KX250 two stroke.
Did that help, or was it total blather?
blitz
My guess is that the capacity is less as you have a cage, but you can pack more lube in with the cage. I haven't installed these yet, but I will once I get some time. I also bought the Jet Lube, but haven't used it, either.
These HK bearings are the exact same bearings that Kawasaki used/uses in the KX250 two stroke.
Did that help, or was it total blather?
blitz
Works for me. I understand why full comp. would be better but I'll give the HK a shot. It beats buying a whole kit when you're 1/2 broke and can get by with 2 bearings.
Thanks.
So, for future reference, the DL type is full comp. ?
blitz11
Silver Level Site Supporter
I looked at a Kawasaki parts fische (knowing that the GG frame is based on a kawa frame), and they list their bearings as AL1216 and DL2216. I am not sure what the DL is. Or the AL is for that matter.
All I could find in Full Complement was the NSK bearing catalog. Those were designated with the F number. I can send the NSK Needle bearing catalog to you in a PM if you'd like.
I think if you use a quality German Bearing, Jet Lube, and the O-ring seal set up that I haven't had yet, you'll be fine. I think.
blitz
All I could find in Full Complement was the NSK bearing catalog. Those were designated with the F number. I can send the NSK Needle bearing catalog to you in a PM if you'd like.
I think if you use a quality German Bearing, Jet Lube, and the O-ring seal set up that I haven't had yet, you'll be fine. I think.
blitz
Thanks for the NSK.
Everything looked great when I took it apart except for the 2 near the drive sprocket. My buddy might've accidentally hit it there with a pressure washer.
The Jet Lube is great. I barely had to tap the axle to get it out and it's been 1 1/2 years and some nasty races since I've had it apart.
Everything looked great when I took it apart except for the 2 near the drive sprocket. My buddy might've accidentally hit it there with a pressure washer.
The Jet Lube is great. I barely had to tap the axle to get it out and it's been 1 1/2 years and some nasty races since I've had it apart.
FULLBURNER
New member
Full comp bearings are available from allballs AND you can buy individual bearings as required direct from thier web site
liv2day
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Digging this thread up from the depths as I just pulled my swingarm/linkage for annual service and discovered that one set of the linkage bearings were seized 
I wish I would have stumbled across this thread when doing the service last year, think it might have saved me the downtime/expense - I used a waterproof green marine grease (didn't know better and thought this would be good) and believe this is what led to the failure. The rest of the bearings were ok, so it must not have been that bad; but still a bummer.
I don't have the tools to swap bearings, so I sent the dog bone to Bill's/URL] in Salem for the work, also ordered the All Balls kit as the bearing race was completely shot; figured replacing all of 'em now that my bike has close to 100 hours was worth it.
Ordered a can of the Jet Lube too and plan to use that for all the bearings.
I'm glad GMP posted the sequence for installation; have the thread I started at the end of '13 when I did this for the first time...should have searched then...lol
I wish I would have stumbled across this thread when doing the service last year, think it might have saved me the downtime/expense - I used a waterproof green marine grease (didn't know better and thought this would be good) and believe this is what led to the failure. The rest of the bearings were ok, so it must not have been that bad; but still a bummer.
I don't have the tools to swap bearings, so I sent the dog bone to Bill's/URL] in Salem for the work, also ordered the All Balls kit as the bearing race was completely shot; figured replacing all of 'em now that my bike has close to 100 hours was worth it.
Ordered a can of the Jet Lube too and plan to use that for all the bearings.
I'm glad GMP posted the sequence for installation; have the thread I started at the end of '13 when I did this for the first time...should have searched then...lol
