Swingarm bolt will not budge HELP!

[GasGasDreamer]

It takes a while but you soak it with wd40 and heat with a torch.
this draws the wd in. do this for a a couple days. hammer with block back and forth, one side to the other. if this doesnt do it then then press it out but again on both isdes back and forth.
in my day i was a surgeon with an torch. i could cut lifters out of engines with out harming the bore. i dont thnk thats possible here bc its too long.
can you use a hacksaw blade and split/slice it?

 

[Neil E.]

Lots of good advise already, but it sounds like you are reaching the point where it's time to cut it out. If you can't get a mini grinder zip disc in where needed, switch to drilling out both ends of the swing arm bolt. Go deep enough to reach below the engine case surface. Keep going up in size until you've got the bolt almost completely hollowed out. Blow out the holes as you go and inspect them to make sure you are still on center. You should be able to get very close to the bolt diameter.

When close enough to the right size, take a small pointed tool and push it down along the bolt OD. This should fold the thin wall in. Go all around and you should get it squeezed in enough that it eventually breaks off. Any ragged edges can be knocked down with a small chisel or punch.

If you are not well centered, try to find or make up a small grinding tool. The idea is to get a ~3/8 grinding ball down to the bottom and circle it around to thin out the wall. You can hold it against the thick side to fix up the off-center. The hollowed out section will come out. This will get the engine out, then you can hold it in a press and push the last bolt piece out of the cases.

Keep in mind that hammering always mushrooms steel, so resign yourself to drilling and cutting before parts get too far out of shape.

 

[Leo]

After penetrating oil, hammers and hydraulic jack, what worked lika a charm to me was an M10 tap on the hole of the shaft.

Then I used one bolt to pull the axle.

 

[Neil E.]

Leo has a good point, if you tap the end and set up some washers or spacers correctly, the new bolt and nut make a good withdrawal tool.

 

[Niall-griffiths]

Does the bolt even turn with a socket on it??

 

[Leo]

No. The head isn't turn. There an "key" on the frame.

 

[Niall-griffiths]

Ah i remember now i recently done mine was going to say u could turn it to break the rust ect off but i remember the bit you mean. I would do as suggested keep lubricating as much as you can so it soaks in and heating then hitting it should come loose after a few days.

 

[Rick]

No. The head isn't turn. There an "key" on the frame.

Depends on the year of the bike, not sure what year they changed, but the swingarm pivot at one time was threaded on both ends.

Which the author has not stated the year of his machine.

 

[3beejay3]

You want to make it move use something like this. Whether or not it's a smart way of going about it I can't say.

This is the best approach. I have the same press as pictured. We recently extracted a severely rusted swing arm bolt from from a 2006 YZ125. It took about 10 tons of pressure before it finally 'popped'. This was after much penetrating oil, hammering and cursing.
The bike had to be stripped down to just the engine, frame and swing arm, so we could fit it in the press and manage it. After it popped, we kept adding oil, pressed it back the other way and kept pressing it back and forth, adding more penetrating oil each time. After about a half dozen times it was ready to come all the way out.
You have to ensure the frame and anything else is properly supported against the pressure, so you don't bend or deform anything. It helps to have at least 1-2 other guys as extra hands.
The swing arm bolts tend to seize to the hardened steel bushings for the SW. A liberal coating of anti seize every 1- 2 seasons prevents this from ever happening.