Torque values, top and bottom triple clamps

fasteddy

Member
I'm wondering if the torque values for tightening the pinch bolts on the triple clamps are correct in the manual. The manual says 20nm for the top and 16 for the bottom, I checked the tightness on the bolts today and found they were way to loose, I cant believe how far I had to tighten them to reach the values in the manual.... This is on a brand new 2011 250 Race... I was checking the tightness to be sure that they're not over tightened and contributing to stiff forks...



Ed.....
 
I'm wondering if the torque values for tightening the pinch bolts on the triple clamps are correct in the manual. The manual says 20nm for the top and 16 for the bottom, I checked the tightness on the bolts today and found they were way to loose, I cant believe how far I had to tighten them to reach the values in the manual.... This is on a brand new 2011 250 Race... I was checking the tightness to be sure that they're not over tightened and contributing to stiff forks...



Ed.....

I find the manual is way over spec. I personally run around 12nm up top, and 7nm on the lower. Also only run the top and bottom bolt in the bottom clamp. You could probably go tighter on the top but I find 12nm is firm and haven't had any issues with the forks moving.

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12377&highlight=clamp+torque
 
:)

Was just thinking about this:


What is the general consensus: tighten a bolt to it's specified torque value and leave it.....or

Tighten each bolt to its value, then come back and tighten again (as it will be below the torque value when the others are tightened after it).

Also I was told run the top two bolts/remove the third/lowest bolt? Theories, comments?
 
. keep in mind that 20 nm is only about 16 ft lbs and 16 nm is 12 ft lbs. Most of my bikes have had clamp torts in the 15 to 12 flt lb range. the no bottom bolt in the bottom clamp comes form the folks at ktm ... at least the first time i heard it was from steve hatch who was riding for ktm ... i think .. anyway he said they left the bottom bolt out because it gave the forks a bit of flex .... i use the tighten both bolts down until both are at the required torque. Thats the only way you can get both bolts at the required torque. If you do it the other way you will have one at the proper torq but the other will now be below the specified torq.

my question is if you use anti seize on your clamp bolts, are you suppose to go higher or lower on the torq value to make up for the lub??
 
If you tighten the bottom clamps to manu spec they tend to 'neck down' the tube it can cause a harsh midrange spike in the fork action in addition to wearing the inside of the tube prematurely & fouling the oil. I'd rather not say how I know but that info comea from LTR after he did my forks on my '06. Jakobi's specs will hold the fork securely in the clamp without distorting the tube, same goes for repeatedly tighten lower clamp until both show spec.
 
K, I reset the torque to Jakobi's values... I also removed the middle bolt on the lower triple clamp. I noticed that the bolts had been marked at the factory,wish I had checked what the torque was before I reset it all.... Thanks for your help....


Ed......
 
Torque two bolts to 7 - 9Nm and just snug the third. The factory specs are WRONG.
 
Yep! I set the wrench at 7nm and then alternate each bolt snugging them up but stopping before the click. When they feel like they are getting close to being tight they go click on each one and I call it done. You can put the third bolt back in and gentle seat it, but I just decided to leave it out completely.
 
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