The turning circle is not all that on my ec 250 12 due to the alloy bolts (stoppers) restrict the turning circle.there obviously there for a reason but wouldn't it be detrimental to the triple clamps I I removed them all together, if so then I would have to replace with a flatter bolt.
Turning circle, how to improve?
- Thread starter Fakesy
- Start date
Jakobi
Super Moderator
If you remove them and replace the bolt you might get a smidgen more. They are there to stop the fork tubes contacting the radiators. Removing them entirely could work well for a while, but may end up rather expensive if you bin it.
I think the 2013 uses a little shorter bolts. I've noticed mine doesn't turn so well in the shed, but I don't even notice on the trail. Lean it over further and give it more throttle
I think the 2013 uses a little shorter bolts. I've noticed mine doesn't turn so well in the shed, but I don't even notice on the trail. Lean it over further and give it more throttle
hamilton
Gold Level Site Supporter
Good luck with that, it is one thing I would really like to see the factory improve. You can start with removing the washers under the stop bolts. If that's not enough, I removed material from the head of the stop bolts until I had .005 mm between the upper fork tubes and the frame. This is pushing it close and in the event of a hard crash you might bend the fork tubes. It's a chance I'm willing to take. Its still not great.
It's a bit pisspoor as there speaciality is trials which tight turning is key.
Haven't got a problem leaning her over in open stuff, but when going down a steep rutted nadgery wooded hill I either bin it as can't get round or have to get off and maneuver it around.
Think I will replace the Allen bolt with a normal flatter bolt, might just make bit of a difference
Haven't got a problem leaning her over in open stuff, but when going down a steep rutted nadgery wooded hill I either bin it as can't get round or have to get off and maneuver it around.
Think I will replace the Allen bolt with a normal flatter bolt, might just make bit of a difference
desertgasser300
Banned
I wouldn't mess with removing the bolts or grinding them down. Taking a BIG chance with running the forks tubes into the frame is a very expensive fix. These 48mm zokes are almost half the cost of the bike.
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StuJohnson
New member
Agree with this. I started to do the exact same thing then stopped because it was bit worth it to me. I ride very tight trails in WA state and once you get used to the bike it basically turns itself...;-)
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desertgasser300
Banned
I didnt want to admit it but I to was trying the same thing until I realized the cost of a BIG mistake. I decided to work on technique instead. Hitting the front brake to lighten the back end and then swing it around for the tight turn or goosing the throttle and hitting the brakes to slide the rear around. The first technique is what alot of trials riders do to get around a tight turn.
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StuJohnson
New member
Good points - thanks
One of the best additions for me was the LHRB. I can slide and operate through corners so much more faster then with the foot brake!! It was definitely a huge beneficial mod for me!!!
Fair doo's I will probably leave it be then. It's the only neg thing about the bike apart from the the front pipe made of cheese, the rest of the bike so far is sweet and a joy to ride. I'm not sure how technique can cure it going down a steep tight wooded single rutted line hill though.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Technique. Lay it over, use the throttle! Thread the needle. Do the Wattsy Wiggle! I ride some stupid tight singles (just don't post a whole lot of it as its not as exciting). Technique involves setting the bike up before the tree. Move it over so the wheels run near the base of one, and tip the bike through the gap. Throttle will still skip the back end over quite easily, even down hill.
If I'm moving too slow to employee any of the above I'll try use the clutch to lift the front wheel on the spot and pivot, or lay it over tuck the front and spin the back around. Doesn't always work.
But in saying that the lesser turning circle/lock to lock of the gasser hasn't really impacted on any trail abilities. I do notice it in the shed though, sometimes having to do a 2 point turn just to get out the door.
If I'm moving too slow to employee any of the above I'll try use the clutch to lift the front wheel on the spot and pivot, or lay it over tuck the front and spin the back around. Doesn't always work.
But in saying that the lesser turning circle/lock to lock of the gasser hasn't really impacted on any trail abilities. I do notice it in the shed though, sometimes having to do a 2 point turn just to get out the door.
Cheers mate, that's pretty detailed.unfortunantly the paticular hill I'm on about is to tight to lean over (trees are pretty close) and it gets me every time where I either bin it as can't get round or the safe option is to get off and man Handel it around, where as the boys on the ktms can get round ok then the piss taking begins lol, it's no biggie as rarely ride it but does bug me and also can't get my head around why GG skipped bread and butter design critiria
222parsons
New member
Can someone post up a pic of the steering stop bolts on a 12? Mine doesn't have any fitted... and the frame is already dented from the forks.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I haven't had a good look, but from memory the stops are threaded into the lower triple clamp. The stops 'stop' against the frame, if not the forks hit the rads.
desertgasser300
Banned
Strange, my forks hit the frame first and are no where near the rads if I take the stops out? I wonder what the difference could be? On the 97' they barely hit the rads with the stops in.
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Jakobi
Super Moderator
You will be right. I'm just going off what makes sense in my head. I haven't taken any measurements/removed the stops. Where are your forks contacting the frame? Now that I think about it, even with the stops in my fork slightly compresses the small rad hose that goes through the frame so I don't think mine would touch the rads either. Thats on a 2013.
