'Upgrade' to a KTM 350EXC from My GG 300EC?

stay_upright
buy the biggest flywheel weight possible-you wont need a rekluse on your new 3 stroke.
run spare zip-ties on the back of your forks tucked inside the headlight rubber bands-clip a tree-zip-tie your shroud to "anything" at your next oppurtunity.
your seat base is cracked cause your subframe is bent,submitting the brittle/hard plastic base too stress crack.
A new seat and subframe,flywheel weight,and handfull of zip-ty's, are much much much cheaper than a $10,000 (US dollars) orange time bomb.
 
I just picked up a Husky TXC310, Came close to a ktm 350 but this got pretty good reviews and was 2k cheaper than ktm350.

I think a 300 2stroke has just a bit to much, I am going to sell my GG300 and keep my GG 200 to complement my new 4 stroke.

Ed
 
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If you a lighter than 175lbs, then I guess a 300 4 stoke will work. I weigh 215 and thought the 350 and below 4 strokes lack serious balls down low. Had to rev it more than I liked to get it to work for me.

An A rider friend of mine had a Husky 310. Loved it at first, then the honeymoon ended and he hated it. Sold it and picked up TE300 Berg. Which he loves and has had for 2 years now.

300 2 stroke for mountain work or casual trail riding

250 2 stroke for racing

1 do it all bike, plated wide ratio 450 4 stroke, get in tremendous shape or just don't be in a hurry on single track.
 
Jakobi said:
You want a 4 stroke because your bike is stallling??... A 4 stroke never wants to chugg down in the revs as well as 2.
Click to expand...

I suppose this point has already been well made, but I'd echo it. The newer 4S that I've ridden "sign off" with abruptness at low rpms. These engines aren't like the old Honda XRs, that chug around and "tractor." You have to ride on the more aggressive side and fast, keeping up the momentum in tight singletrack.

Jeff
 
Precisley Jeff. The revs fall as the engine labours and then with a 'clack' the whole thing stops. I know the feeling well :D In comparison a 2T will continue to struggle along and the revs can fall much further before everything grinds to a halt. In saying that though, a bit of handy clutch work will keep just about anything on the boil, but in regards to the op considering a change to try and avoid stalling, it would be 2 steps backwards. Speaking of which, has he chimed in since starting this thread?
 
The 310 Husky is a great bike, but a Rekluse is a required piece of equipment to kill the engine braking and stalling. I know a lot of guys here with the 250/310 and they all run the Rekluse clutch and love it.
 
GasGas said:
The 310 Husky is a great bike, but a Rekluse is a required piece of equipment to kill the engine braking and stalling. I know a lot of guys here with the 250/310 and they all run the Rekluse clutch and love it.
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Mine is a 2013, I cant give a good report yet, I have not ridden it. I have a rekluse on the way.

I know the origanal poster was looking for KTM350-300 comparison, From what I am told the 310 is a little stronger right of the bottom than the 350 and a little slower to rev. Slower to rev is a good thing were I ride.

E
 
Maybe a 250 top end on that bike would have been the trick Ed? But that would not get you a plate if you really need one. Are you selling it with the YZ/KYB frond end?

I have a 300 top end to try on my '07, to scratch that 300 itch. From my rides on them in the past though I agree they are too much. I might race that bike in the Tuxedo Ridge HS on the ski slope, or in one of the ECEA series events if its real sloppy and the speed is down. The chassis works great in that stuff and its hard to ride a 250 on the pipe. The '12 is my primary ECEA weapon. Judging by how both 250s pull now, I think the Smartcarb on the '12 will be icing on the cake.
 
GMP said:
Maybe a 250 top end on that bike would have been the trick Ed? But that would not get you a plate if you really need one. Are you selling it with the YZ/KYB frond end?

I have a 300 top end to try on my '07, to scratch that 300 itch. From my rides on them in the past though I agree they are too much. I might race that bike in the Tuxedo Ridge HS on the ski slope, or in one of the ECEA series events if its real sloppy and the speed is down. The chassis works great in that stuff and its hard to ride a 250 on the pipe. The '12 is my primary ECEA weapon. Judging by how both 250s pull now, I think the Smartcarb on the '12 will be icing on the cake.
Click to expand...

Glen, I have a complete 250 from my 2007 and a complete 200 from my 2006,
I must have a plate, I have been running around with my plate from my 2007 on my 2011. The 2011 will be sold with the stock supension. The KYB stuff is going on my 2007.

Back to the ktm 350, I thought the bike road very light thought the rocks yet still had a planted to the ground feeling

ED
 
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I'm not trying to run down the KTM brand but I did hear something about some 1st year KTM 350s having crankshaft problems. I've been trying to find out if this is all true or not. In all fairness I heard similiar rumors about the original YZ 400F in 98/99. I would want to find out if there were any recalls (this was how I heard of the prob.)and what changes, if any have been made on newer models? You may also want to check out the Sherco 300i. I've never ridden one but there are more choices in bikes now than we had a decade ago. Jim
 
Caravan Monster said:
Stay_Upright, what sort of riding are you doing ? Context may be relevant here. Especially if riding club enduros in the midlands, where I know I found the EC300 just too powerful [for my limited abilities :rolleyes:] on the wet clay that is common here. I'm enjoying the EC 200 much more. I'd be looking at 250 four strokes if I wanted to go down that path in this part of the world.
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Yes quite a bit of racing and tracks in the midlands and some in wales. Yes it can be super greasy sometimes but also if its dry you can use the 300, I also want a bike I can be very lazy with the gearshifts so the 300 is good for that.

When its very greasy I just shift up gears which tames the power but makes it real easy to stall at the very low rpms
 
motorhead said:
stay_upright
buy the biggest flywheel weight possible-you wont need a rekluse on your new 3 stroke.
run spare zip-ties on the back of your forks tucked inside the headlight rubber bands-clip a tree-zip-tie your shroud to "anything" at your next oppurtunity.
your seat base is cracked cause your subframe is bent,submitting the brittle/hard plastic base too stress crack.
A new seat and subframe,flywheel weight,and handfull of zip-ty's, are much much much cheaper than a $10,000 (US dollars) orange time bomb.
Click to expand...

I've already got a huge sthealey on there biggest I could get 12 oz I think. I think the subframe has taken a few tweaks.
 
I suggest you look very closely at the cost of running a ktm 350.
Look at how many hours to piston/conrod replacement, and price that.
 
stay_upright said:
When its very greasy I just shift up gears which tames the power but makes it real easy to stall at the very low rpms
Click to expand...

That's what I used to do with my old 300, and got the same problem of stalling at very low rpm. At one of the Fast Eddy training sessions, I learnt that you can often stay much more in control on very slick ground by being more aggresive on the throttle and clutch, although going through the trees a lot faster takes some getting used to :eek:
 
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