I am hoping to have a GG in my shed in the next month or so, there are currently two bikes up for sale, budget is not great as we are building a house, option one is a 2012 ec 300 for $6k option 2 is an ec250 R 2007 @ $3k the 250 is full ohlins and look like it may be an ex team bike, brought into NZ IN 07 for a pro rider. 250 has 10 hrs on a top end rebuild and general refresh the 300 has only done 10 hrs from new. Thoughts appreciated!
What to go for? 2007 ec250 R full Ohlins @ $3k or 2012ec300 @ $6k NZD
- Thread starter Dunc
- Start date
swazi_matt
Active member
Personally I am wary of the 2012s they were a 1st year bike that had some rush changes made at the last minute (as well as many of the design engineers being fired as a result). A few of the changes did not carry through to the 2013+
But then again the 2007 is quite old - heavy but possibly more bulletproof - would investigate availability of spares for the ohlins forks
But then again the 2007 is quite old - heavy but possibly more bulletproof - would investigate availability of spares for the ohlins forks
Thanks for the info, yeh from what I have read re the 2012 it's mainly the plastic subframe that needs replacing, are there any other issues that are majors? The 07 May be the way forward the shock and forks have just been serviced so sounds like parts are ok. Would be nice to own what is really a near new bike but I have got time or money to fix up major issues, fitting an aluminium subframe is about as much as I would want to do.
If you get the 12 I have done the subframe swap so I have the plastic old one you can have ! Just pay freight , also the radiator shrouds are rubbish in the way they are held in but I can help you there with ideas if you get 12 , lots of people rubbish them but I've found my fine with a bit of fine tuning 6k for one with 10 hours sounds good buying to me , only thing I wish mine had was e start
I bought a 05/300 with full ohlins for 3.5k and have spent about 2k on it. At the time I could only buy on a budget and work on the rest bit by bit.
I often ask myself though should I have put 3.5k deposit on a newer bike and just paid the rest off say 30 bucks a week. But anyway I now have it set up how I want it and own it.
Maybe tell the guy you will give him 5.5k for the 2012
I often ask myself though should I have put 3.5k deposit on a newer bike and just paid the rest off say 30 bucks a week. But anyway I now have it set up how I want it and own it.
Maybe tell the guy you will give him 5.5k for the 2012
scratch250
Gold Level Site Supporter
I've had a 12 for over 2yrs now w/o any real issues. I love the bike actually. Not sure what happens with the subframe, but mine has held up. I might add that i stand 90% of the time.
desertgasser300
Banned
My 2012 is an amazing bike, never a problem, just as bullet proof as any other year Gasser. After riding the 12' for 3 years I personally do not like the older frames.
on2wheels4ever
New member
Buy the newer bike. We just bought a 13 300,my son rides it and it's a great bike. It's a much better bike than our 200 that was a 2000. I will buy another this year, a 250. It will be a gasser if I can get a deal or a Beta if I'm buying new. I think the Betas have better resale if that's something that is important to you.
on2wheels4ever
New member
I agree, deals are out there, you just have to look. Most of the local Gas Gas bikes I see don't sell. That makes it a buyers market. They are a great bike that can be bought at a bargain price.
Prices are a lot higher in Aus & NZ. New 2015 in Australia is 12-14k. Have a look if you get the chance on http://bikesales.com.au and you will get an idea of what we pay for used.
It sounds like if I can negotiate a decent price then the 2012 would be the way to go, I am not sure what the issue with the plastic subframe is, just that they get swapped for aluminium ones, maybe weight? Or a tendency to break?
Thanks for the replies, has made the choice easier!
Thanks for the replies, has made the choice easier!
That sucks but I bet everything is expensive there. So they actually sell them higher than list price? Or is it a currency exchange rate?
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Minimum wage is about twice as much. Everythings somewhat relevant. If you want to spin out jump on a few real estate sites and see what $400G can get you over here, compared to in the states.
To the op, I have owned both a 2010 and 2013 from new. The 2010 was upgraded to full TTXs setup. The 2013 is on the stock 888 and custom fit KYB SSS forks. I prefer the TTX shock by a lot. I wish I could move it over to the new chasis (I may actually look at making some mods). The chasis on the new models is much more refined. Sits up higher with more peg clearance and is more aggressive or race orientated in its feeling where the pre 2011 feels very agricultural (kind of like steel framed Yamahas). This is a personal preference.
For the new chasis though, I'd avoid a 2012. Too many niggles. The 13 still has a list of niggles, but to a lesser degree.
How much to get a bike from Aus over the lake?
Last edited:
It would be good if there was a fault list available for the 2012, I think I would just ride until stuff became a problem, I have two kids under five so I will be doing well to get out twice a month, with that level of usage I should be ok for a while on the 12. My only real concern is if the faults are not fixable eg not a big problem to replace a subframe but bad geometry would be a downer!
desertgasser300
Banned
What kind of niggles are you speaking of with the 12's? I'm just asking because I have had zero issues with my 12'. Only one that has ever come to mind is the plastic sub frame, in which a very small percentage had a problem with.
You are right on with the frame difference description. I was trying to figure out how to explain it, but that was right on the mark!
wence
Bronze Level Site Supporter
I have had both an 07 and now a 12.
The 07 was set up great for me and I loved it but it was getting old and things were getting worn.
The 12 is a great bike compared to the 07 except the turning circle, or lack of I , takes a little time to ride around. No dramas with it now though.
I have had issues with the forks but now have them set up really well.
I have had a few dramas with the footpeg bracket holes enlarging and have now rewelded them.
I smashed two speedos so that is off now.
The plastic subframe has been fine on mine and it has been tested quite a lot with the riding I do.
I would recommend a 12 over a 07 personally .
The other thing is the 12 is a 300 and the 07 is a 250?
Two different bikes altogether , so depends what riding and how you like to ride.
Cheers Mark
The 07 was set up great for me and I loved it but it was getting old and things were getting worn.
The 12 is a great bike compared to the 07 except the turning circle, or lack of I , takes a little time to ride around. No dramas with it now though.
I have had issues with the forks but now have them set up really well.
I have had a few dramas with the footpeg bracket holes enlarging and have now rewelded them.
I smashed two speedos so that is off now.
The plastic subframe has been fine on mine and it has been tested quite a lot with the riding I do.
I would recommend a 12 over a 07 personally .
The other thing is the 12 is a 300 and the 07 is a 250?
Two different bikes altogether , so depends what riding and how you like to ride.
Cheers Mark
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Wasn't there issues with the following?
Fuel tanks swelling and being a poor fit. Addressed in 2013
Reports of some plastic subframes cracking/snapping. Addressed in 2013
Linkage and handling appears to be fine, but was revised in 2013 - believe 2012 is the tallest of all years to date (personal preference).
Battery/seat fitment for e-start models - not 100% sure but think I recall some complaints.
Rad shrouds - 2 piece and 2 x gromet install from memory. 2013 revised to use a lower bolt to mount, still issues with the upper fitment once rad braces installed.
Airbox and drain on both models inferior to 2011 and earlier (at least in terms of dealing with water).
Across both years (2012-13) variety of suspension from Sachs/Ohlins in the rear to Marzocchi 45mm OC, Marzocchi 48mm CC, and Sachs 48mm OC.
So a 2012 model could be fine. Everything that was an issue I believe can be replaced by newer part numbers if you have issues. As others have said, it was the 1st generation of the new chasis (which included all new tank, plastics, subframe, seat, etc) and I believe they have made steady improvements each year since.
Fuel tanks swelling and being a poor fit. Addressed in 2013
Reports of some plastic subframes cracking/snapping. Addressed in 2013
Linkage and handling appears to be fine, but was revised in 2013 - believe 2012 is the tallest of all years to date (personal preference).
Battery/seat fitment for e-start models - not 100% sure but think I recall some complaints.
Rad shrouds - 2 piece and 2 x gromet install from memory. 2013 revised to use a lower bolt to mount, still issues with the upper fitment once rad braces installed.
Airbox and drain on both models inferior to 2011 and earlier (at least in terms of dealing with water).
Across both years (2012-13) variety of suspension from Sachs/Ohlins in the rear to Marzocchi 45mm OC, Marzocchi 48mm CC, and Sachs 48mm OC.
So a 2012 model could be fine. Everything that was an issue I believe can be replaced by newer part numbers if you have issues. As others have said, it was the 1st generation of the new chasis (which included all new tank, plastics, subframe, seat, etc) and I believe they have made steady improvements each year since.