Where does this go?

Coop said:
No. Floating the ground involves modifying the stator. You can get DC without floating the ground. I have done this to my bike. I have a .pdf document written up of how I did it but when i posted it on Google docs to share it messed up the formatting. I can email it if you are interested.

Edit: I just put it on Dropbox. Let me know if the link works:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gpxcvg4xuxcxsml/EC250 DualSport Procedure.pdf
Click to expand...
I just downloaded your PDF...works fine. Nice bit of info. Thank You:)
 
Hey guys just put everything back together and to my disappointment the bloody magic button isn't so magic. I tore it all down and traced all my connections and all is good(I think) I have a good ground by the coil and if I bypass my relay the starter motor turns. Almost like I'm not wired or have control from the switch to the relay but not sure how that can be because it's all quick connects. Any thoughts or ideas for me to look further into?? Could it be a faulty relay? That would be weird right out of the box.
 
nambo-trev said:
Hey guys just put everything back together and to my disappointment the bloody magic button isn't so magic. I tore it all down and traced all my connections and all is good(I think) I have a good ground by the coil and if I bypass my relay the starter motor turns. Almost like I'm not wired or have control from the switch to the relay but not sure how that can be because it's all quick connects. Any thoughts or ideas for me to look further into?? Could it be a faulty relay? That would be weird right out of the box.
Click to expand...

Do you hear the relay clicking when you hit the (not so magic) button? If not, try to connect +12V from the battery directly to the relay (where the (soon to be magic) button is connected). In that case, you should hear a "click" and the starter should start turning if the relay is OK.
 
Anders said:
Do you hear the relay clicking when you hit the (not so magic) button? If not, try to connect +12V from the battery directly to the relay (where the (soon to be magic) button is connected). In that case, you should hear a "click" and the starter should start turning if the relay is OK.
Click to expand...


Ok I'll give this a try when I get home from work tonight. A least ill know if the relay is working thx
 
I would try what Anders said first and then put a meter on the switch wires and see if you get voltage when you press the button. That will also help determine if you are getting power sent to the relay.
 
The relay did not click when I pushed the button so I will try it manually with the battery lead see if it will click, I also tried a second brand new starter switch incase it was that and had the same result
 
I asked a guy I know who has a 12 es which order the cable connected from battery , it wouldn't work , switched wires on relay and it worked , just waiting for some new wire to turn up so I can complete the install,
 
That's funny cause I used the relay cable as my ground because it was a little longer. That's weird though because it's all just "wire"!
 
My ground goes to battery - , +from battery to relay then out to starter , red and black / white to kill switch/ start button
 
So the white green and red out of harness that plug in, the green is ground and the white goes to the start button and what is the red for? Just wondering which spade connectors on relay do what?
 
nambo-trev said:
So the white green and red out of harness that plug in, the green is ground and the white goes to the start button and what is the red for? Just wondering which spade connectors on relay do what?
Click to expand...

The red should be hot (switched) from the ignition switch (looking at manual). It should have 12 volts when the key is on, the white wire is the "trigger" for the solenoid. Well, in my estimation, of course.

Also, put the ground wire right on the top of the starter motor. Much better to have direct to the motor than having the ground route through the engine cases. Just my opinion, but it removes variables.
 
White/black is connected to the red via the start button , or as I found out first if I shorted them together the starter worked
 
pscook said:
The red should be hot (switched) from the ignition switch (looking at manual). It should have 12 volts when the key is on, the white wire is the "trigger" for the solenoid. Well, in my estimation, of course.



Also, put the ground wire right on the top of the starter motor. Much better to have direct to the motor than having the ground route through the engine cases. Just my opinion, but it removes variables.
Click to expand...


Oh boy what keyswitch?? Am I suppose to have a ignition key switch?
 
Maybe there is a splice that has to go where the keyswitch should go as a bypass for ignition power to start button. I gotta find a schematic. This makes perfect sense though because without the key switch you could kill your battery with the light being left on. I'm going to try this first tonight and see if that solves the problem
 
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