Don't bother with the solder. Buy a depth mic or vernier and actually measure the distance from the top of the barrel to the piston at TDC, and then measure the distance from the squish on the head to the sealing surface. You want the difference between these 2 measurements to be between 1-1.5mm or 0.040-0.060". If not, adjust with gaskets.
Don't bother with the solder. Buy a depth mic or vernier and actually measure the distance from the top of the barrel to the piston at TDC, and then measure the distance from the squish on the head to the sealing surface. You want the difference between these 2 measurements to be between 1-1.5mm or 0.040-0.060". If not, adjust with gaskets.
If you have everything apart, this is a good method. For an assembled engine, the solder method is smart. I am going to replace the piston of my 200 now, and plan to take the solder route. If the measurement is close to spec, I plan to replace the piston without removing the head from the cylinder. Saves me the hassle with the o-rings
Tried the solder thru plughole method yesterday. Am not sure I got it accurate enough, though. Will take off the head today and do a new solder measurement
Tried the solder thru plughole method yesterday. Am not sure I got it accurate enough, though. Will take off the head today and do a new solder measurement
I installed both gaskets so there was about a 1mm squish! Today I took it for a ride in the snow and I'm happy so far! Engine is running good and doesn't seem to be any water leaking in to the engine! I tried to follow the ''Break in'' guide from the manual but after awhile I just couldn't hold out anymore so I rev'd her and started ripping through the snow!
I tried to follow the ''Break in'' guide from the manual but after awhile I just couldn't hold out anymore so I rev'd her and started ripping through the snow!
There are many different schools of thought on how to break in a new top end.
I'm sure your method conformed to one of them.
Glad you're back in the woods.
If the tolerances are correct, you should be able to warm it up and ride it like it was built to be ridden! If you baby it, the rings will never seat and that is a problem. Have fun!
There are many different schools of thought on how to break in a new top end.
I'm sure your method conformed to one of them.
Glad you're back in the woods.
If the tolerances are correct, you should be able to warm it up and ride it like it was built to be ridden! If you baby it, the rings will never seat and that is a problem. Have fun!