which needle is best for broadest power?

How much more spread do you want? A clean jetted 300 should make power from idle through to 9000rpm. The needle you have should provide a pretty seamless transition from bottom to top as well. If you're chasing more over rev, consider perhaps dropping/modding the Qstealth. Also maybe do some plug chops and see where you're at!
 
Move the needle a clip richer, or a quicker test close up the air screw and see if you get more grunt.
 
I have a DDK (2nd from the top)in my 2006 EC 300 with a 42 pilot and a 175 main. I ride at 1000-3000 feet. Until I set the power valve preload correctly I had very little bottom end power. I also had RB designs do the head mod as squish measured 2.3mm. Changing to a 42 pilot was the only jetting alteration I made after the setup/mod and I may drop back to the original 40.

I can say I have all the off the pipe smooth power I want for the tight single track we ride. I'm not saying the DDK is the needle to have just that the power valve setup and head mod made all the difference to the bottom end.

Hope this helps.
 
Yep. Taking up the power valve slop gave me as much bottom boost on my 2011 GG250R as an RB Head Mod. --maybe more.

I just noticed a little noise coming from that area after another 40 hours of run time. I think I'll check to see if the PV is wobbly.
 
are you on a 250 or 300?

Im in the uk some same fuel etc as you and im not having problems with low end power on my 250, last bike was a ktm 300. Not as much torque as that but its good considering its a 250. My jetting is suzuki def2 needle 2nd clip from top, 172 main, air screw 2 out, 45 pilot.
 
what do i need to do to set the powervalave ?

There is a sticky at the top of the Engine-2 stroke section that walks you through it. It took me a little bit to get my head around doing it myself but after studying the process and pictures I thought it was fairly simple even for a weekend warrior type of mechanic.

One quick check is to remove the right side power valve cover to see if the triangle plate is against the stop bolt with some tension. If you have free play between the plate and the bolt you need to set the spring preload behind the clutch cover. Mine had 5/16" play. Do not manually open the power valve by twisting the triangle plate. You risk allowing the steel balls in the governor to fall out.

My bike went from the bottom end power of my old KDX 220 to that of close to a 450. It's worth investigating,it made that much difference.

You may want to start a new thread over there. Lots of people willing to help.
 
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smoothest power for a 300 = nedw or nedj. after that maybe a flywheel weight? I never much cared for them but i can't imagine wanting much smother delivery than ned(x)
 
are you on a 250 or 300?

Im in the uk some same fuel etc as you and im not having problems with low end power on my 250, last bike was a ktm 300. Not as much torque as that but its good considering its a 250. My jetting is suzuki def2 needle 2nd clip from top, 172 main, air screw 2 out, 45 pilot.

300 sorry for the delay
 
NEDW or NEDJ. Some say NEDJ for 300. I had better luck with the NEDW in mine.
 
For very smooth linear power, my 300 liked the NEDW at #2, 172 main and 40 pilot in a stock AS2 with 7.0 slide and no head work. If you ever want a torquey arm ripper, let me know. Believe I have that one figured out as well. Hope this helps.
 
For very smooth linear power, my 300 liked the NEDW at #2, 172 main and 40 pilot in a stock AS2 with 7.0 slide and no head work. If you ever want a torquey arm ripper, let me know. Believe I have that one figured out as well. Hope this helps.
could I have the arm ripper too :)

Cheers britishgas
 
i also after trying a bunch of needles remained with the NEDJ#3 with 40/172 slide #7. smoothest power, lugs down really low, as good as no boiling and best fuel economy.
tryed CEK, DDK, NECJ, NEDW, N1EG, N1EF so far.
NECJ was also not bad but needed a 42 pilot, with that it was oiling a lot out of the muffler what i didnt like.
 
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