Why is the 2015 estart design better than the 2014?

Does anyone know if the 2015 still mounts the battery attached to the seat. IMO, that is a really really dumb place to put the battery.
 
I think the better question is when is someone going to figure out (with their mad gasgas skills) how to put one of these on a 2010 vintage. Got the had mod done on mine and it is a bear to kick.
 
So I have a 2014 and a 2015 300. I've had trouble with both the starters. I get that the 2014 is a less than perfect design, but with some tinkering you can get them to be fairly good, never perfect but acceptable. Good thing is you can replace the bendix for ?40 by using the scooter option. Now on to the 2015. I really thought this was going to be a big improvement but out on my last ride the starter would not engage and screamed each time you tried to engage. It was obvious it was not hitting into the flywheel cog. Previously it would often not engage first time but it was reliable all the same. On inspection the gear on the bendix is worn and the flywheel gear is worn. Dont know the replacement cost yet. I'll post some pics later. Looks like the wear was getting worse over time without causing it too fail and eventually the tolerance has been exceeded and it wont engage at all.

Anyone else had similar problems or know of mods to stop the wear? It looks like the bendix wasnt throwing either cleanly or far enough into the flywheel gear. Maybe putting a shim in on the cover side would help? Has anyone tried a wet mod on this like people do on KTM that may just help the engagement to be more consistent.

Looking for any advice.
 
Have the same streak on my ec300 2015 going to be getting it apart at the weekend to see what's going on as I also snapped the kickstart shaft Sunday and will be sorting that aswell
 
I've done 3 kickstart shafts,1 bendix and intermediate gear in 238hrs on my 2015 ec300e. I've fixed the kick issue with a 2004 fsr 450 shaft,2nd hand ebay job.
The issue with the intermediate gear being stripped,could have been prevented, if I changed or lubed the hidden bearing behind it in the starter casing.There is also another bearing on top of the crownwheel where the the starter bolts in.I use a thin oil to lube this bearing too.
This bike had been an absolute bitch to kick of late, and equally hard to start off the button,It was showing symptoms of over advanced ignition,so off with with the stator rotor to discover a woodruff key that was only just in 1 piece,it actually snapped when I tried to remove it from the crank.It now starts as it should on both the kicker and leccy starter.

My advice is if your using aggressive trials style splat techniques on grippy surfaces,get some lapping paste and mate the crank to the stator rotor and check your woodruff key for wear.
 
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