Won't Idle in Gear

[12Bravo]

I HAVE read a bunch of post on this forum and others about this. But can't seem to get a clear understanding of what might be the issue.

Would like a little help to eliminate what it might or might not be.

This is what I have happening. Idles good in N, pull clutch shift into first, idles for 5-10 seconds then bogs down and dies unless I blip the throttle.

I have watched several youtube videos on proper hydro clutch adjustments, I have done so. The bike is even hard to roll/push when in gear and clutch pulled in.

I checked the fluid, it is dark but not black and is half way full in the M/C. I'm going to get fresh DOT 4 and bleed it to see if that is the issue, I don't think it is, but will do it anyways as an excuse for maintenance, that looks like hasn't been done on this bike. The more I tear into it, the more little issues I am seeing with it. Oh well, I'll just call this the Stupid Tax for learning a new hobby.

Sorry, I'm new to these, learning as I go. Please be patient till I figure this stuff out.

 

[motopsycho87]

What year bike? You should use dot oils in most clutches. I use atf in mine. If it's an old bike it's likely the clutch fins have notched, either replace or file. I replaced my basket with a Barnett, it is beautiful!!

 

[12Bravo]

What year bike? You should use dot oils in most clutches. I use atf in mine. If it's an old bike it's likely the clutch fins have notched, either replace or file. I replaced my basket with a Barnett, it is beautiful!!

It's a 99 EC200. I just rode it for about 15 minutes, not as snappy as I was think it was going to be, but I'm over weight. Which might be in my benefit for learning, kind of tame the beast till I get comfortable.

I have DOT 3 for the brakes, brand new M/C and lever. Bleed just fine.

The engine idled after about 15 minutes of riding. So maybe I just didn't let it worm up enough earlier today. I put Walmart ATF in the gear case, which I have read some positive reviews about, on here and other forums.

One thing I noticed, I need to build my clutch fingers up, only using two fingers, now my arm is tired after only 15 minutes of riding.....wow, can we say out of shape!

Once this clutch drops, I'm going to get new plates and inspect the basket. Hoping it is fine with just a touch up and a file. But if not, then Barnett it is, seen some good reviews with them also.

 

[12Bravo]

What year bike? You should use dot oils in most clutches. I use atf in mine. If it's an old bike it's likely the clutch fins have notched, either replace or file. I replaced my basket with a Barnett, it is beautiful!!

When you say ATF in your, what brand?

It calls for DOT 4, in a pinch could I use DOT 3 till I get to town to get some DOT 4? I live 20 miles from town.

 

[Jakobi]

Double check the MC for the clutch before you hook in. Some take mineral oil, others brake fluid. Not interchangeable.

Both of my Gassers have a bit of clutch drag (and have from new). Most noticeable with fresh oil and a cold engine. It's not to the extent that it makes the bike hard to start in gear, or that the bike will try and lurch forward with throttle and the clutch pulled, but is enough friction to drop the revs down a tad.

I don't expect my bike to idle in gear excessively though either. If it's in gear I intend on keeping the bike moving. If I'm stopped I usually kill the engine. If I stall down a hill a quick bump brings it back to life. These engines are easy enough to live with once you get them set up. I can bump the idle up to counter act the stalling out, but I don't like the way the engine feels and responds with a higher idle, particularly while trailing revs with a closed throttle.

 

[(F5)]

Check the inner basket for wear too. But why would you idle it in gear for any time?

 

[12Bravo]

Check the inner basket for wear too. But why would you idle it in gear for any time?

Stopping to go down a hill, learning to ride.

Plus it is ridiculous to get into N after the bike is running. With its off, it pops right into N but when it is running not so much.

 

[eff]

I started running Amsoil 0W-40 and that made a big difference in clutch performance. I highly recommend it.

 

[motopsycho87]

I use any atf dexron oil for my clutch, 6 is the best, 2 is the worst, you can also use it as a gear oil.

I hold mine in neutral because my bike is road registered and it makes every trip to the shops that bit more insane ! There should be no drag AT ALL. Any drag is indicative of something amiss.

 

[Brian VT]

Engine oil can make a bit of difference too.
I noticed less clutch drag when I switched (many years ago) to
Rotella 5W-40 synthetic as recommended by the good folks on this site.
I suspect you have other issues, though. I only use 1 finger on my '03 clutch lever and it never gets tired.

 

[motopsycho87]

The only difference I've found with engine oil is dragging when cold. After that, they all feel exactly the same. Only hot difference is squawking under heavy load. Thinner oils seem better as they must get into the plates easier, but under extreme heat are just as bad. I've solved all those problems with a decent basket, so in my mind oil is a plaster, not a solution.