2 Thumbs Up on 48 CC Zokes!

[Jakobi]

You can think of the PFP as simply an additional spring aiding in the support of the front end of the bike. It's adjustment allows for easy external adjustment of front end stiffness. That's one of the reasons a 48 Marzocchi PFP fork with 0.42s feels way stiffer than an 48 Sachs OC or 45 Marzocchi OC.

Not to mention an Australian tuner actually measured the rate of a set of springs out of these as closer to .44 than .42, but what you say still applies.

 

[AZRickD]

I upped my shock spring to 5.4 for my pounds and sag needs but was advised to keep the front at stock (which I have).

 

[Bandit9]

I upped my shock spring to 5.4 for my pounds and sag needs but was advised to keep the front at stock (which I have).

My guy said .48 in front and 6.2 rear for a 6'1. 235lb Fast B/Slow A. I'm only getting 18mm Free Sag and 106mm Rider Sag. So I really need a 6.3/6.4. To me, .48 and 6.4 is unbalanced. Should I bump up to .50 on fork when I install the 6.4? Or does the PFP allow me to get away with .48's?

 

[celler]

I was laying in bed last night with a Christmas level of red wine on board thinking about pfp adjustment and why gasgas valving has no float on the mid valve. I think the pfp is a great tuning kit for getting a wide range of stock settings working. I have been avoiding preload on this bike and have changed my thoughts, I have .48 springs, I had been running zero pfp, 2 mm preload and clickers c10 r 11, I had never gone the other way. I think no float means the stack s operational at anything more than zero movement and the pfp pretty well determines how divey you want the bike. I wound in 2 pfp and went in to 9r and went out to 18c and I had the same amount of brake dive and was using a lot more stroke on square edges and the bike is a lot less spikey, I went in to 2.5 and the dive reduced, bit more follow the ground feel but not obtrusive and the same lush highspeed feel, this all just around my 2.5 acre block and dirt roads so I would need a days ride to really fiddle and verify but I think it proves that the pfp is better than just a spring preload as you maintain the valving characteristics. Maybe gg or zoke no what they are doing with that mv.

I have found I too like some preload from on the pfp. When I upgraded to .46 springs I set them up with 3mm preload and thought I would try 0 pfp. I seemed to lose stability and be more divey than the stock setup. So with more testing I ended up at .46 springs, 3 mm preload, 2 turns of pfp, c20 and r15. I ride terrain that is really rocky and hacked up but relatively smooth as far as bumps/whoops. If I would ride in sand with whoops I'm sure I would dial it a little different. I'll be doing more testing with increased pfp. The forks were quite good stock and I really have not quite happy and was really busy trying to get my KTM forks to work acceptably

 

[Simmo737]

I have found I too like some preload from on the pfp. When I upgraded to .46 springs I set them up with 3mm preload and thought I would try 0 pfp. I seemed to lose stability and be more divey than the stock setup. So with more testing I ended up at .46 springs, 3 mm preload, 2 turns of pfp, c20 and r15. I ride terrain that is really rocky and hacked up but relatively smooth as far as bumps/whoops. If I would ride in sand with whoops I'm sure I would dial it a little different. I'll be doing more testing with increased pfp. The forks were quite good stock and I really have not quite happy and was really busy trying to get my KTM forks to work acceptably

Well that's a positive, sounds like we could be on to it.

 

[Jakobi]

Reading old threads.

Revalved mine and looking forward to riding the setup. Always ran 2 turns in on the PFP, and with the changes immediately noticed a much firmer/precise front end. I made some pretty major changes in all the stacks though, and also tightened up the float from .65 to .4mm.

I found the stock setup very plush, but also vaige and would kind of just wander in whichever direction they wanted. Didn't really deflect, or wallow too much, but found front tyre placement took more effort than I prefer. Now it feels sharp! So much so I think I may end up moving the forks through the triples a touch more as well.

 

[AZRickD]

What's your new stack.

 

[Jakobi]

I won't post the complete ins and outs of it, and its only the first round of testing as well so could be quite a bit off.

Mid - kept the bleed shim, dropped the check plate design of the .15's and rebuilt a more tapered and traditional stack.

Rebound - dropped the bleed shim, and used it as a crossover to make a 2 stage stack. Added in some more HSR.

Base - again removed bleed shim and the randomness of the clunky thick shims and moved on to build a tapered 2 stage stack with a crossover for some small bump compliance.

 

[AZRickD]

Got it. I added a bleed shim to the Comp and removed one from the Rebound. No progression work done on the shim stack yet.

I have PFP all the way soft and the Comp clickers all the way soft and the Rebound all the way slow. Still not soft enough. It is a little firm on rocks and I think I detect a bit of a mid-stroke spike. . Rebound is near the ballpark but still needs more.

I love how these forks won't bottom out on my usual cased mini jumps and G-outs. I definitely don't want to lose that feature.

In the same boat with the shock. I will get it retuned in a week or three.

 

[Jakobi]

I'd love to get a little seat time on it before heading out for a big ride but I don't think I'll get the chance. Poor clearance under the bars to access the PFP and I haven't made any tools up so I'll be sticking with it at 2 turns initially. I'll give a more detailed report in a few days. I'm also using a 15.9cSt fluid.

 

[Vindicator]

I'll give a more detailed report in a few days. I'm also using a 15.9cSt fluid.

Which one ?

 

[Jakobi]

Amsoil Shock Therapy #5. Its reasonably priced (cheaper than anything else I can pick up locally). I've been using it in my Ohlins gear for some times now and been happy with how slippy it is and how well it holds up. Continues to come out looking pretty well even after more hours than recommended.

 

[desertgasser300]

Amsoil Shock Therapy #5. Its reasonably priced (cheaper than anything else I can pick up locally). I've been using it in my Ohlins gear for some times now and been happy with how slippy it is and how well it holds up. Continues to come out looking pretty well even after more hours than recommended.

That is good to know, I have 2 quarts(or its metric equivalent) sitting on the shelf for my next oil change.

Sent from my QMV7A using Tapatalk

 

[Jakobi]

Of course, a single round of doing both inners and outers uses a touch more than whats in a single bottle

 

[desertgasser300]

Of course, a single round of doing both inners and outers uses a touch more than whats in a single bottle

True, I thought I would test it out on my wife's bike w/45 zokes first. Her bike always seems to be the test bunny for stuff like this...

Now that I wrote that, that sounds really bad!!

How many cc's or ml's did you put in the inner cartridges?

Sent from my QMV7A using Tapatalk

 

[twowheels]

True, I thought I would test it out on my wife's bike w/45 zokes first. Her bike always seems to be the test bunny for stuff like this...

Now that I wrote that, that sounds really bad!!

How many cc's or ml's did you put in the inner cartridges?

Sent from my QMV7A using Tapatalk

Spec for inner chamber is 210cc, but some guys are putting in less to reduce the preload on the PFP spring.

 

[Jakobi]

I avoided filling the inners by volume and instead followed the manuals oil level spec. I was filling from the vacuum pump and bleeding the piston by hand. Then I used the vac pump to pull the oil level back to 135mm from the top of the cart (with shaft extended). Lifted the cart to the stop of the stroke and slowly installed the base valve. Once all snugged up when cycling the shaft I did so quite quickly and got one big fart sounding purge of air. No further audible purges noted. Both carts returned at the same rate, and would only just return to the fully extended position on their own with no play. Cycling the cart with my ear against it no sound of air internally.

Next time I wouldn't mind following a different method of over filling and purging.

 

[Jakobi]

So I think they'll need a little more tweaking yet.

Ended up at PFP 1 turn in, 20 comp, 12 rebound. I managed to bottom the forks hard (CLUNK) but it was off a meter high ledge. They seemed to work quite well when pushing them, through woops, bog holes, ledges etc. One section that was 3rd/4th gear on the pipe they soaked everything up and felt great. Over water bars no issues with bottoming, but they did feel like they would spike a little on the square edges. No major deflections or snatching bars from the hands, but still a bit of room to improve. I think thats not surprising with 0.4mm float on the stacks I'm running. Pretty tight for an enduro 2T. I think I'll open it up to 0.5 or 0.55mm at the next service and see where I end up.

I never tried the PFP at 0 either, so that could be an option. PFP at 2 felt ok, but much firmer across the board.

 

[AZRickD]

Can you tell us your stack? I'm going for another revalve next week and I'd like to clue in my tuner.

 

[Jakobi]

Shouldn't your tuner be clueing you in? I imagine they'd know a lot more than me. My stacks are much more like something you would find in a set of KYBs.

At one point yesterday I jagged the edge of a log which I hadn't seen and it deflected me quite a bit and I took a dirt sample. At that time I was running faster rebound, with a firmer comp setting and overall it didn't feel as settled.

I think I'm going to keep riding the setup as is for now and really get a feel for what its doing.. Then make some adjustments at next revalve. Probably just change the float. I should try PFP at 0 with a bit more compression too.