2005 EC200 Continual RH Crank Seal Failure

[Hellcat]

Or weld it . If it was mine I would use Belzona and repair it . Clean very well . Maybe fill in the entire spot . I used oil proof gasket maker in the porosity pit between my crank seal and engine case . That was like 15 years ago and it’s still going strong

 

[Anders]

Good find! I agree that it looks like a casting error. How thick are the cases at that point? I have no experience with such matters, but guess that a good welder should have no problem fixing that. As long as the cases don't twist during welding, that is. Or perhaps you cold drill a small hole, tap it and insert a grub screw with lots of the correct type of Loctite? Not thread-locker, but thread-sealer. But as I said, I have no experience in such matters. But I'm sure a chemical solution will also be good, providing you find the correct product.

 

[SS109]

Best would have a good aluminum welder touch that up for you. However, I have fixed casting flaws like that on bikes, and even V8's, using JB Weld that have held up for decades. Prep is key. Also, go for the slow setting type and let it fully cure before adding fluids/running the engine.

 

[Hellcat]

Best would have a good aluminum welder touch that up for you. However, I have fixed casting flaws like that on bikes, and even V8's, using JB Weld that have held up for decades. Prep is key. Also, go for the slow setting type and let it fully cure before adding fluids/running the engine.

Many years ago I have used jb weld also but since I’ve found Belzona . This would outlast the engine case . I’ve been told by valve techs at plants I work that they have used this stuff to repair damaged inside of huge valves from water hammer . And years later they tear down valves again to find Belzona still perfect and other areas of valve damaged . But it’s expensive.

 

[SS109]

Many years ago I have used jb weld also but since I’ve found Belzona . This would outlast the engine case . I’ve been told by valve techs at plants I work that they have used this stuff to repair damaged inside of huge valves from water hammer . And years later they tear down valves again to find Belzona still perfect and other areas of valve damaged . But it’s expensive.

JB Weld two part epoxy, or even the cheaper Steel Stik, will work perfectly for his application and only costs about $5-10 vs $150+ for the Belzona. The juice isn't worth the squeeze for his application.

 

[NHtrailrider]

Thank you everyone for the replies. I will pick up some JB two part epoxy today and give it a try.

Another issue found was a leak at the back of the cylinder base gasket. Down in between the the cylinder and the reed block. Checked the cylinder nuts and they are tight. Do I need to remove the cylinder again and try a new gasket?

 

[SS109]

Yes, the top end will need to come off.

 

[Hellcat]

Another tip : if you have a little pen torch like used for soldering you can heat the area to try and cook out any oil that has soaked into case . For better adhesion

 

[(F5)]

I have some Belzona somewhere, but that's fantastic news of why.

I'd rough the whole well and flood it with JB Weld or Devcon. I've used both reporting race engines in areas multiple times hotter than that. As long as you have a good surface to hold onto and brake clean 5x then it will never fail. A few centre punch marks give good foundations.

 

[NHtrailrider]

Filled the hole with JB weld late last week. I didn’t fill the entire well in the casting, just a good blob of the epoxy over the hole. Cleaned the area with brake cleaner and a qtip. Hopefully it holds together. Let it cure for 24 hours and did another leak down test. Seems to be holding. I filled the gear case with oil on Sunday and took it for a ride. Doesn’t seem to be burning any gear oil! It took me almost two years and a full bottom end rebuild to figure this out. Thank you everyone for your help! I can now finally tune in my jetting. It seems to be a little rich on the pilot. Plug is dark brown and wet. I will try lowering the needle first (JD Blue). If that doesn’t work I will put a 42 pilot in it.

 

[(F5)]

Good to hear.
Plug reading is a roadrace thing. Only relevant for wide open and must kill engine and coast to check.
Thus ignore it and jet on throttle response.
Always consider throttle position in relation to jets. You can of course try winding the mix screw out and then change pilot if not enough (return screw to mid position say 1.5 out if you do go down).
Back in day my 200 i got an LTR needle. It had a wider base diameter and I had to get back up in pilot size, but it ran much better. Good luck.