2010 EC300 or not?

[binsel]

Hi All,

I'm 6'2" with longer legs and been riding 2010 EC300 I bought brand-new.

Recently, I rode 250xc-w and 300xc-w and wondered why I am not getting a similar power KTMs provide. They rev and provide great power, but mine does not rev as good and when I rev, it gives me vibrations more than power. On my bike, lifting the front requires decent amount of throttle on 1st gear. On 300xc-w 2nd, 3rd gear wheelies are easy.
I always get sludge regardles of premix ratio and the brand of oil I use.
So I am interested in APT's SmartCarb. I expect it will resolve the above issues.

Having long legs, I have to lift my whole leg for rear brake. On tight single-track I usually keep my right leg lifted whole time. It gets tiring and I get cramps after 2 hrs. The solutions is auto-clutch + LeftHandRearBrake. Unfortunately, Rekluse produces only the most expensive ($950) version of their auto-clutches for my bike while I need the basic one.

Plus, I prefer PDS or linkless shock over linkage due to less maintenance. All the bolt and nuts around linkage is very tight on my bike.

I love the handling of my bike but I hasitate to spend more money because of jetting issues and ergonomics. I assume it's a good chance I can find used rekluse or tall seats for KTMs.

Should I go to the orange side?

Cheers,

Burhan

 

[bkwdc]

ktm

Yes. You should buy a ktm.

PS
I will buy your GASGAS.

I'm just sayin.

 

[Jakobi]

So what have you done/addressed on your Gasser so far? Has it always felt soft or just recently? How many hours?

Stock the bikes run overly rich if it has an AS2 carb with the N1EF needle.
A certain number of people have found considerably slop in the powervalve tension. Results in a soft bottom end.
Engine vibration - check engine mounts - but the 300 by nature will vibe a bit. The factory started installing sealed main bearings in 2010 which I think may increase the vibes once the grease starts to dispearse. I went to a 250 jug on mine and reduced the vibes alot. Then had the crank trued and new bearings throughout cases and it feels silky smooth. This was over 8000kms/260hrs though.

PS. It should easily lift the front in the bottom 3 gears. Mine will lift in 5th in the mid-upper rpm with nothing more than a tug at the bars and a crack of the throttle. It also sounds like you want a ktm..

Jetting and PV checks won't cost you much at all.

 

[fletchman45]

If your 300 will not wheelie easily in 3rd and 4th gear. THERE IS A PROBLEM!!! Yes the PDS has less maintenance however it takes a good suspension tuner to get it dialed and even then at least to me will not provide the ride quality of a good tuned linkage rear. I really do not like orange much. In the long run the Gas Gas should be a better bike and for sure cost LESS to maintain. You may be a little on the tall side for the old chassis (prior to 12 Gasser) but they do have tall seat options and handlebar riser options. I am only 5 foot 7 and rode a 11 six day 250 and a 12 300 back to back several times this weekend and must say for me the 12 and up chassis is VASTLY superior in ergonomics and handles sweet and will reward a fast rider who pushes it. For a taller guy the (and even a short guy like me) you may prefer a 12 or up gasser. My 300 engine pulls sweetly and wheelies (WHENEVER I WANT!) and revs out nicely!! Vibes a tish more then a 250 Gasser but rewords you with excellent bottom end grunt!!! So I guess, get your bike running right. (My god come on jetting is not rocket science!!) Work the height deal out Tall Seat and bars!!) Or grab a low hour 12 or new 13!! Gas Gas!!! But no I would leave the Orange for the KoolAid club!! Just saying...............

 

[Cberg]

I'm just over 6' tall with long legs and ride a 2011 EC 300 and I am very comfortable on the chassis. I have never tried a 12 or 13 but would sure like too!!
When I first got mine it took me awhile to sort the jetting out and it never had the power I thought it should have either. Now that it is jetted properly it runs awesome!! Strong power throughout and just last week I took out the slop in the power valve and HOLY SH!$&":;!!!! It now flat out rips!!!

I would say spend a bit of time to get it dialed in and I think you will be very happy with how the motor will perform!

 

[ScottyR]

Hi All,

I'm 6'2" with longer legs and been riding 2010 EC300 I bought brand-new.

Recently, I rode 250xc-w and 300xc-w and wondered why I am not getting a similar power KTMs provide. They rev and provide great power, but mine does not rev as good and when I rev, it gives me vibrations more than power. On my bike, lifting the front requires decent amount of throttle on 1st gear. On 300xc-w 2nd, 3rd gear wheelies are easy.
I always get sludge regardles of premix ratio and the brand of oil I use.
So I am interested in APT's SmartCarb. I expect it will resolve the above issues.

Having long legs, I have to lift my whole leg for rear brake. On tight single-track I usually keep my right leg lifted whole time. It gets tiring and I get cramps after 2 hrs. The solutions is auto-clutch + LeftHandRearBrake. Unfortunately, Rekluse produces only the most expensive ($950) version of their auto-clutches for my bike while I need the basic one.

Plus, I prefer PDS or linkless shock over linkage due to less maintenance. All the bolt and nuts around linkage is very tight on my bike.

I love the handling of my bike but I hasitate to spend more money because of jetting issues and ergonomics. I assume it's a good chance I can find used rekluse or tall seats for KTMs.

Should I go to the orange side?

Cheers,

Burhan

Something isn't right. I have owned all of those bikes and a 300 GG has as much jam as a 300 KTM for sure.

If you want to spend some money, a lot of local guys have been putting Lectron carbs on their GGs with great success. Call Rob Lang. He stocks them.

I might have a line on a used Rekluse as well.

 

[Coop]

All the bolt and nuts around linkage is very tight on my bike.

That's pretty much a requirement unless you want parts falling off your bike. You will find the PDS shock bolts equally as tight.

I have a 2010 250 and have no trouble lifting the front end over logs, ditches, etc., even in 3rd. I weigh ~210#. Something is amiss with your bike.

GUTS Racing does makes a tall seat foam for our year.

I think you just want a KTM and are trying to justify it. KTM's are great, but they too have their own quirks. No bike is perfect, they all require personal set-up.

 

[Neil E.]

Burhan,
Your jetting is probably too rich since you haven't changed the stock jetting. Switching to the Lectron would cost less than the smart carb and be all you need. Rob has them in stock. I doubt a KTM 300 would vibrate less than the GG.

You might want different pegs. I reversed a set of pivot pegs. This lowered the pegs and moved them back a bit. I found this made the bike more comfortable. A tall seat would help you.

I use mostly front brake when I'm riding and just stab the back brake for a few seconds to adjust my speed before a corner. Maybe one of those expensive Clake controls would be useful (combined clutch/rear brake).

I hear you on the linkage. It is a chore to service, but not that bad once you are used to the procedure. Since you are considering spending money on a KTM, you should talk to Rob and see if he can get you a test ride on a 13 GG that he set up. The pricing is probably pretty close.
Neil

 

[ScottyR]

After riding a 2013 GG 300 and a 2013 KTM 250XCW (PDS) back to back last weekend, I can 100% tell you that the suspension on the GG is better than the KTM.

 

[binsel]

So what have you done/addressed on your Gasser so far? Has it always felt soft or just recently? How many hours?
...
Jetting and PV checks won't cost you much at all.

Jakobi, it has over 100hrs and still has the same compression amount. It has always been the same since day one, and I have not done anything on the power/jetting side. I know 2 other riders who has the same bike, who has more experience on jetting. They played with jetting and came back to stock setting, so I did not touch it. I know one other who used YZ main, got the revs but lost some bottom.

Somebody told me to check for squish band clearance. It might be on the loose side (close to 2mm). I was told the ideal squish height is between 1.14 mm to 1.27 mm. The benefits of tighter squish are crisper power delivery, better and cleaner fuel burn, easiness in getting one's jetting right, and elimination of detonation!!!

For Power Valve adjustment, I guess I need different springs, right?

Thanks,

Burhan

 

[Cberg]

For the power valve adjustment you don't need anything except maybe some new gaskets. There's a thread on it with some good pictures and details. I wasn't sure what to do but found the thread and followed the directions. Very easy to do and you will feel the difference once the slack is gone.

 

[ScottyR]

How many hours are on your bike? There is a chance that it might be getting ready for a top end.

 

[Boom Boom]

For the power valve adjustment you don't need anything except maybe some new gaskets. There's a thread on it with some good pictures and details. I wasn't sure what to do but found the thread and followed the directions. Very easy to do and you will feel the difference once the slack is gone.

+1
Slack adjustment made a big improvement on my 2011 300 Gasser

 

[Jakobi]

Jakobi, it has over 100hrs and still has the same compression amount. It has always been the same since day one, and I have not done anything on the power/jetting side. I know 2 other riders who has the same bike, who has more experience on jetting. They played with jetting and came back to stock setting, so I did not touch it. I know one other who used YZ main, got the revs but lost some bottom.

Somebody told me to check for squish band clearance. It might be on the loose side (close to 2mm). I was told the ideal squish height is between 1.14 mm to 1.27 mm. The benefits of tighter squish are crisper power delivery, better and cleaner fuel burn, easiness in getting one's jetting right, and elimination of detonation!!!

For Power Valve adjustment, I guess I need different springs, right?

Thanks,

Burhan

The stock needle is poo. You can shift the clip position around and make it run as best as you can but that needle will still be too rich, too thirsty, too smokey and too spoogey on the bottom end. Raising the clip position to lean this off then makes the midrange a bit flat. I can make some suggestions but first up you need to determine which carb you have. The AS1 has a shallow bowl, and a slat steel cap held down by 2 screws/allen heads which will be stamped on top (either 36/38 depending on size). The AS1 has a deeper bowl and the traditional round cap that is threaded onto the carb body. These 2 carbs jet very differently so important to know which one. Alternatively I've been testing the Lectron and they are super simple to setup once you get the right throttle cable and routing. I'll have a Smart Carb next week to test too.
The stock squish band on my 2010 was 2.6mm (epicly large) and bringing it down to the 1.2-1.3mm range does improve the efficiency and the bike will be less finicky to changes. Its something I'd suggest doing to any 2T if you hope to achieve the most out of it. Improvements across the board.
There is a sticky thread on the 2T engine section which covers the powervalve tension and setup. No parts required (maybe a gasket).

Seriously though, changing out the stock needle for something else (either Yamaha/Suzuki taper profiles) will completely transform the bike.

 

[Coop]

For the power valve adjustment you don't need anything except maybe some new gaskets. There's a thread on it with some good pictures and details. I wasn't sure what to do but found the thread and followed the directions. Very easy to do and you will feel the difference once the slack is gone.

Link? My search-fu is weak .

 

[binsel]

...just last week I took out the slop in the power valve and HOLY SH!$&":;!!!! It now flat out rips!!!

How did you take out the slop in the power valve?

That's pretty much a requirement unless you want parts falling off your bike. You will find the PDS shock bolts equally as tight.

Mike, it was my mistake. I meant access to bolts/nuts is hard. As I see, it looks better on the newer models.

...Maybe one of those expensive Clake controls would be useful (combined clutch/rear brake)...

I liked Clake idea but as you said, it's expensive. I think it's not worth that much.

 

[binsel]

After riding a 2013 GG 300 and a 2013 KTM 250XCW (PDS) back to back last weekend, I can 100% tell you that the suspension on the GG is better than the KTM.

Scott, I think 2012 and 2013 gassies come with Marzocchi forks. Chilly White did not like them much, found them unpredictable and lacks proper adjustment. I assume they should be good after breaking in and re-valving???
I think the engine is around 100hrs. I'll check it later.

 

[Coop]

Mike, it was my mistake. I meant access to bolts/nuts is hard. As I see, it looks better on the newer models.

Ah ok. Sorry I misunderstood. It is a tight work space for sure.

 

[ScottyR]

Scott, I think 2012 and 2013 gassies come with Marzocchi forks. Chilly White did not like them much, found them unpredictable and lacks proper adjustment. I assume they should be good after breaking in and re-valving???
I think the engine is around 100hrs. I'll check it later.

I take whatever Chilly White says with a grain of salt. I ended up buying that same test bike from GGOR and it was set up so poorly I am not surprised he didn't like it. Chilly had everything pretty much screwed up on that bike. I spent an afternoon replacing all the stripped bolts and putting all the clickers back to pretty much stock settings and it worked awesome in our terrain. It might not work that good in the California desert but I don't ride there so I don't really care what Chilly thinks of it.

You will get very few negative opinions of the 48mm Zoke fork. It works awesome. Way better than the forks on a 2013 KTM XCW.

 

[Boom Boom]

Link? My search-fu is weak .

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9517

Lots of good info here