2012 300EC no power above 1/4 throttle

VxZeroKnots

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I have a 2012 300EC with 123 hours on it. New piston and rings at ~105 hours, new plug at the same time. Power valve adjustment was checked and it needed no changes at that time. Air filter was on it's first ride since cleaning when the problems started.

Just yesterday I was riding in the mountains and on the way back to the truck riding back on the road the bike started blubbering and had no power right at about 1/4 throttle, maybe a little above. It ran fine all day doing everything from 1st gear clutch slipping Romaniacs style gnar to 6th gear fire roads for miles.

After the last bit of single track we got on a dirt road and then had about two miles of pavement before the truck. About a mile and a half into the pavement cruising at a good clip around 1/3rd throttle the bike just started to blubber and had no power. I stopped, checked I had plenty of fuel, switched to reserve anyway and rode another few hundred feet with similar results. I had my buddy tow me the last little bit back to the truck just to be safe but probably could have limped it in.

The bike starts and idles fine and runs normal until about 1/4 throttle. I took the exhaust apart and checked the packing and spark arrestor. The sparky is clear and I'll replace the packing since I'm in there but nothing looked out of sorts. I then checked the plug and it was not fouled and was a light brownish tan. Looks just like the plug I pulled out of it that the bike ran 100 hours on.

Carb is a Lectron 36mm with the needle at 1/4 turn rich from 50.28 (made a field adjustment and haven't measured it since) and the power jet is at 1.75 turns out which I think is a touch rich. Elevation was about 8k feet and temps were in the 60's so I feel everything is spot on there. I haven't checked the carb for debris yet.

If the carb checks out I'm guessing maybe my power valve is stuck or one of the bearings in the governor became dislodged perhaps. My understanding is you remove the exhaust side cover and run the bike on the stand to see if the lever actuates. Is that correct?

I won't get to check that until Tuesday when the shops open and I can buy some exhaust packing since all I have on hand right now is 4t packing. I plan to take a peak into the cylinder through the exhaust port when I pull the pipe just to make sure the rings and piston are happy but the engine never stalled or froze up and starts and idles fine so I'm assuming they are good.

If anyone has any ideas or input beyond that I'd really appreciate it and am all ears. I'd really like to be able to go ride again next weekend so any trouble shooting tips or pointing out something I'm missing would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
 
Try un plugging and re-pluging the ignition, same thing happened on my 13. Also try cleaning the fly wheel at the pick up, I found mine covered with grease from the starter. Also check the power valve I had the stud break off.
 
Stud/pin on the actuator plate. Pull the pipe and RHS PV cover first.
I had one break to. Easy spot weld fix. If that is ok, check the stator if you have an ohm meter? There is a page on the gasgas motos site under manuals that will give you the numbers for the stator.
 
I'd check carb first. PV for sure, they should be pulled out & cleaned every so often & its quite easy in situ once you work out which direction to push.

I'd change the plug first actually thinking about it, they can seem & spark fine but break down in use.
 
F5, are you saying you can clean the PV on the bike effectively? Any tips or links regarding the procedure? I'm clueless but eager to learn.

Checked the PV visually, stud was intact on the lever under the cover on the exhaust side of the piston. Took a peak in the exhaust port and there was more wear than I would have liked to see but nothing out of sorts with rings and such.

Going to ensure there isn't an electrical contact issue with the ignition or stater grease issues. After that it's probably carb clean time, anyone got tips on spiffing up a Lectron? Anything I should replace while I'm in there. Probably ought to have a look at the reeds too at that point.

Barring that, once I can repack the muffler and run it at a reasonable volume, I'll verify the PV is actuating and measure stator resistance as suggested. Spark plugs are cheap so a new one might be in order. . .

Hopefully one of the above will reveal itself as the issue. :eek:
 
Pull the pipe, take the rhs powervalve off, put the pipe back on, start the bike and check the PV opens when it's meant to. If it doesn't, clean it (can be done with the jug on but it's a pain)
 
I did it a couple of months ago on the bike & it was a piece of piss, the biggest thing it to have the bike tied up on a table so you can get to everything & it gets much easier.
I'd deluded myself that it moved easily but it still seemed to hang up riding sometimes, when I was done cleaning it, it was much smoother & no problems

There are PV instructions on the front page,
or through tech articles
http://www.gasgasrider.org/html/pv_disassembly.html

main thing is to hit the nylock nut with a flame so it winds off without shearing the bolt.
 
Thanks for all the info so far. I took the pipe off, removed the PV actuator cover reinstalled the pipe, started the bike and verified that the PV actuator moves as I'd imagine it should.

I also checked the stator pickup and it was as clean as could be. I didn't check the resistance at this point.

I did take some pictures of the piston through the exhaust port as best I could as I'm concerned about the wear marks on it. Again, this piston has about 15 hours on it and I'm good about keeping my filters clean and run an oiled pre-filter. I checked and the intake was clean so i don't think I'm sucking in dust. If it matters the piston is a Wiseco and the OEM that came out was a "B"







There is no gouging and everything feels smooth to the fingernail. Bike never died or seized and no major jetting, altitude, or jetting changes have been made since the top end.


Should I clean the PV, check the carb, reeds, and then piston from the intake side or pull the whole thing apart for major inspection?
Again you all have been a great help and I really appreciate it.

Edit: the bike did boil on me but only on long steep clutch slipping slow climbs and didn't take much coolant to reach the top of the fins when I got home.
 
Have you checked compression using a gauge? They are inaccurate and not strictly to be relied upon but can an at least give you some sort of idea on the compression.
Rings were installed correctly? End gap wasn't too small? Whilst I doubt it's any of this as you've said your bottom end is still normal it's worth checking.
Next step check that carb out and clean the PV as a precaution.
After that new spark plug and if it still does it check for electrical issues breaking down under load, CDI, coil pack, plug lead/cap.
Fuel, air, compression and spark. That's all that's needed for these bikes to run so it shouldn't be too hard to narrow down. Hopefully. Keep us informed.
 
I have not done a compression test. I should have when I did the rebuild. Would it be worth checking now without a relative baseline?

Ring end gap was checked per Wiseco's instructions and found to be in spec. I'm certain the rings were on correctly when the piston went in the jug.

I love that these bikes are so simple hope to have this one chugging along happily before too long.
 
Do the compression test. 180 to 200 psi is good. 170 to 180 is OK. 160 to 170 is adequate. Anything less than 150 means poor sealing. Below 140 time for new parts.
 
Do the compression test. 180 to 200 psi is good. 170 to 180 is OK. 160 to 170 is adequate. Anything less than 150 means poor sealing. Below 140 time for new parts.

+1 you need to know what's not causing the problem.
 
What is the simple method for testing?

Not sure I understand your question. But if your compression is not within spec your wasting your time trying to get it to run correct. Anyone that does their own work should buy a compression tester.
 
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