2012 EC300 e-start walk around video, pics, etc...

[Vindicator]

I have to remark on the GG e-start.

Over the last two weeks I've watched five different videos on the 2012 GG with e-starts. Every one of them seem to start in a split second after touching the button.

The KTM 2T e-starts tend to go "wakka-wakka-wakka" before lighting up.

I hope this is not just mental sample bias on my part.

No it's not. GG E-start has a simpler setup than KTM's, that's why it's faster. I also think it will last longer.

 

[Jakobi]

The starter motor itself on the GG range is larger than the ktm counterpart also. Neither will be happy if the bendix isn't making good contact though.

 

[thumperrider1]

Thanks for the info Clay and jakobi. I may pull the needle out f the Yz and see which one it is, it's been a long time since I had it out. I will dive into the suspension and jetting threads and start reading.

I guess I need to go on a diet, I really didn't want to respring but if I have to that's not a big deal.

Jakobi I don't have an accent, you guys down under have an accent hahahaaha!

for the NEDJ I used a 42 pilot and 172 main.

for the N3CJ I'm using a 42 pilot and 175 main.

 

[Rider_wv]

for the NEDJ I used a 42 pilot and 172 main.

for the N3CJ I'm using a 42 pilot and 175 main.

Thanks man, I ordered both needles today, I will probably try the NEDJ/42/172 first.

 

[AZRickD]

This jetting information would be of more worth if your elevation (MSL) and temps are included.

In Phoenix, in the winter time it's usually 50 or 60 and we ride around 1,200 feet and climb up a grand or two above that. In the summer we drive up to Flagstaff where we start at 7,000 and climb to 9,000. Temps are a chilly 70 to 85, usually.

 

[Rider_wv]

My elevation is 500-1800 ft at my normal riding areas. Winter temps are 20-50, summer temp 65-95. I have to tweek jetting depending on season and sometimes month to month.

Today it was 70 and low humidity, Sunday will be 92 with decent humidity. July and August will be 90? and 95% humidity.

Oh how I wish it was 55-60? all the time with very low humidity. I hate high temps.

 

[john01]

Sweet! Thanks for the walk around and ride videos. Enjoy your new bike.

 

[thumperrider1]

My elevation is 500-1800 ft at my normal riding areas. Winter temps are 20-50, summer temp 65-95. I have to tweek jetting depending on season and sometimes month to month.

Today it was 70 and low humidity, Sunday will be 92 with decent humidity. July and August will be 90? and 95% humidity.

Oh how I wish it was 55-60? all the time with very low humidity. I hate high temps.

I'm in VA and our jetting should be close. He might get away with a 40 pilot or maybe just airscrew adjustment with the 42.

 

[eviljim]

Stupid

Sorry to ask a stupid question. How do you know it is running rich?
Like the vid by the way.

 

[Jakobi]

Sorry to ask a stupid question. How do you know it is running rich?
Like the vid by the way.

Loads of spooge, excess smoke, blubbery wet sounding engine note under throttle (aka 4 stroking). Black sparg plug, poor fuel economy. Mostly its the noticable feeling. If you start to give the bike some throttle and the revs start to break up and go blah blah blah blah blah and doesn't clear up until the throttle is opened more or closed, then take note of the throttle position as thats where you're rich. The stock needle is very rich at lower throttle openings but cleans up nicely once you're into the throttle. Not much fun if you're riding ST though.

If you want to experience it turn your air screw in till its almost closed and feel how it runs at lower throttle openings. Drop the clip 2 positions on the needle and go for a quick ride. Bump the main up 5 - 10 sizes and ride. You'll soon get a feel for it.

 

[AZRickD]

How do you know it is running rich?

Because *I* jetted it.

 

[Rider_wv]

Easiest way to see if its rich is like Jakobi stated. Black plug, excessive smoke, stumble/ blubber at certain Rpm range. For instance my bike seems to run well at 1/2-full throttle, but still smokes too much. I had to crank the idle way up to get it to idle consistently and from idle to 1/4 it sputters, it doesnt rev smooth, starts to clear up 1/4 to half but still has a sputter.

The biggest and most obvious way to check is to pull the plug. Mine is BLACK, very BLACK, almost wet. the electrode, core, base, everything is black. Second easiest way is the line of spooge half way down the silencer and on the back fender.

I do prefer to run my bikes on the rich side but this is still excessive.

FYI I am running 50:1 with 93 pump gas and Klotz super techniplate premix.

Also, the fastway pegs on my YZ bolted right up to the Gasser. Jetting swap, pipe guard install and EE rotor guard install is tonight.

 

[Jakobi]

You're lucky to have the YZ! A few of the parts are an easy swap or cross over with a little modification (pegs, brakes & pads, brake pedal, kick starter, jets). If you pull the needle from the YZ and find its the stock N3EW inc stock clip #2 I'd suggest flipping it straight on over, or trying clip 3.

For reference.
N1Ex#1 172 = N3Ex#2 178 from 1/4 throttle on, with the later leaner off the bottom. The N3xx needles need a richer main as they are twin taper compared to N1Ex being a triple taper.
N1Ex#2 = N3Ex#3
N3Cx is the half clip leaner option to N3Ex, So N3Cx#3 is half way between N3Ex#3 and #2.