2012 vs. 2013
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fletchman45
New member
The workmanship fom what I can tell is a notch higher then the 11's. And it would seem the redesign aspect is superior as well with the ergo's feeling better then the 11. The plastic subframe I am not sure what I think, but it would be nice to get some more specific details. Thanks. I hope my 12 is better then and 11 and I hope I do not regret my choice. In the event I have troubles that are not my fault I will jump ship. If the bike proves to be reliable I am certain I will enjoy it.
twowheels
New member
Jan's bike was started a half-hour before a national holiday and completed on the next Wednesday
I think you'll find the '12 superior in design, and careful set-up on your part will allow it to reach and maintain its potential. Figure out how you're going to keep the seat bolt in. Mount some radiator guards and secure the lower shrouds to them, or better yet buy some '13 lower shrouds. Make sure you retain the battery box, or fab up a system like Glenn's. Split some gas line and isolate the airboot from the subframe. Tighten your spokes after the first ride. Mix up some more gas and go ride!
If you run into issues chances are they have already been identified and solved on this forum. It won't take long and the only Husky you'll own cuts either wood or grass.
GMP
Active member
The issues I've had I've either delt with myself to my own satisfaction, or were promptly taken care of by the dealer, Clay, and Mark. No hassles, arguments, waits (like with my KTM experience), just prompt service. Tank replacement is an example. I'll admit it pissed me off at times but its a solid race bike now that I'm very in tune with. Also, now these things mentioned all dealers know about and I would expect a good dealer like Steve would go over a '12 with a fine tooth comb and clean up anything to a customers satisfaction. Remember the first guys with '12 figured all this out.
fletchman45
New member
Jan's bike was started a half-hour before a national holiday and completed on the next Wednesday
I think you'll find the '12 superior in design, and careful set-up on your part will allow it to reach and maintain its potential. Figure out how you're going to keep the seat bolt in. Mount some radiator guards and secure the lower shrouds to them, or better yet buy some '13 lower shrouds. Make sure you retain the battery box, or fab up a system like Glenn's. Split some gas line and isolate the airboot from the subframe. Tighten your spokes after the first ride. Mix up some more gas and go ride!
If you run into issues chances are they have already been identified and solved on this forum. It won't take long and the only Husky you'll own cuts either wood or grass.
This to me is GOOD news as Iv'e laid out the MOST cash I have ever put up for a dirtbike. This was a careful decision that I had been thinking about for a long time. I am COMMITTED to this GAS GAS for the next race season and will try to work this bike to it's potential. Iv'e been on smallbores (Hushy 150's) for the last couple years but back in the day the Husky 250 was my bread and butter. The engine is smooth but I would not say fast. (running pretty fat right now) Feels like and old Husky 250 but hey I Have 6 gears like and old Husky 250!!! I will have to look at the Glenn subframe thing. And my god do I really have to tighten the spokes on and Excel rim???????? Never on a Husky!!Same wheel. I was going to do all the 13 upgrades, but my 12 carryover will stand true and proud the way it is. I could run the bike down to Go Fasters and let them check it out if needed. We shall see. But this is my bike and it is paid for in full and my weapon of choice for Senior A next year!!!!
GMP
Active member
Check your radiator fill neck for a smooth surface where the cap seals, mine had some rough anodizing and leaked, easily buffed out. Check the axel pull in the axel, mine was overtightened and elongated the axel, making fork centering impossible. Check and grease everything like any new bike.
The thing that bugged me most about riding the bike was the seat, and how it felt like it was rolling from side to side when I shifted position. This flexing also contributes to the bolt falling out and the seat falling off. I found this was from the batt box flexing, and also no side support like a conventional alloy subframe would provide. All the load is transferred to a narrow area on top of the batt box via the four grommets. I made an aluminum seat support that has more contact points over a larger area, solid as a rock now. It also braces the subframe halves like the alloy part on the '13. Mount the seat with bolt from the top and a nut on the bottom and you will have no problems.
If your a fast A your gonna love this thing. Its a real confidence inspiring bike IMO. Steering AND stability with not much compromise.
The thing that bugged me most about riding the bike was the seat, and how it felt like it was rolling from side to side when I shifted position. This flexing also contributes to the bolt falling out and the seat falling off. I found this was from the batt box flexing, and also no side support like a conventional alloy subframe would provide. All the load is transferred to a narrow area on top of the batt box via the four grommets. I made an aluminum seat support that has more contact points over a larger area, solid as a rock now. It also braces the subframe halves like the alloy part on the '13. Mount the seat with bolt from the top and a nut on the bottom and you will have no problems.
If your a fast A your gonna love this thing. Its a real confidence inspiring bike IMO. Steering AND stability with not much compromise.
+1million
This new chassis holds a line and feels planted like nothing I've ever rode before. All my other bikes, I had to ride for a bit to really start to feel confident on them. This one I feel good on right off the bat each time.
It's nice not having to be so fussy about line selection on snotty/junky stuff. Just giver'.
twowheels
New member
Not worth changing over for that reason alone - for the cost of a couple screws, a dish washer and a nyloc nut you've got the '13 set-up on your '12.
A quick re-cap - sharpen a screw to a point and drive it up through the seat base, foam, and cover. Take another screw (longer than stock), push it through a washer, and thread it into the nut in the seat base. Add a washer and the nyloc nut under the fender and you're done. If you do it right the screw is retained with the seat when you remove the nut.
For added style points buy the red-anodized washer for the seat top.
twmtatenrost
New member
do i go 12 or 13 ?
first post on the forum.
got a chance of a good deal on a new EC300 (non racing) one is a 12 and one a 13
?600 difference-- please advise before wednesday as going to to the deal on thursday----help
first post on the forum.
got a chance of a good deal on a new EC300 (non racing) one is a 12 and one a 13
?600 difference-- please advise before wednesday as going to to the deal on thursday----help
fletchman45
New member
I would think with the $500.00 added to the 12 incentives, you should be saving more like $1,400!!!!!!!! NOT $600!!!!! If it is only $600 I would say grab a 13!!! I bought a 12 over a 13 and saved $900 which paid for gas and motel hand guards, chain and sprocket and tires and grips and brake pads. Sounds like a bit, but with all the small revisions on the 13 I probably would have been better off getting a 13. If it is truly only $600 I would not even think about it!! If it is $1,400 like it should be, that is a pretty big discount!! And could be used for all sorts of stuff. Talk to your dealer there is $500 more for sure on rebates on the 12, so that would put you at $1,100 which is still pretty good. The seat can be changed pretty easy and the frame guards I am sure will be real cheap and the shrouds would not take much either. In this economy $1,100 is A LOT. Sounds like I may have to worry about a crappy tank on my 12 which does nothing but irritate me. If I DNF because of a faulty tank that will be it. Back ON HUSKY! How the heck do I get warrenty on a bike I bought that sits till spring! 13 has NO tank issues. I guess toss a coin! One thing is for certain to me. And 11 feels BARBARIC when I jump on the 12! Man I have not got to ride hardly at all, but the ergos are SWEET! Good luck on your purchase!!
twowheels
New member
first post on the forum.
got a chance of a good deal on a new EC300 (non racing) one is a 12 and one a 13
?600 difference-- please advise before wednesday as going to to the deal on thursday----help
Where are you located? Are you talking a 600 euro/pound/dollar difference? Are both bikes non-Racing (meaning Sachs/Sachs or Marzocchi 45/Sachs)?
fletchman45
New member
My bad I just assumed US. You must be right because there is no way it would only be $600 difference! Do you have 13 frame guards in stock yet????
desertgasser300
Banned
What is wrong with your tank that makes it faulty?
twowheels
New member
Clay
Banned
Dude.....chill out. The tanks aren't breaking, splitting, falling apart or doing anything to cause a dnf. They simply swell up some when our fuel is used in them and the bolt and collar won't line up IF you take it out. If you never remove your tank, you won't even know it has happened.
desertgasser300
Banned
I was wondering about the tank what could make you DNF. My tanks does swell, but it takes like an extra minute to get it back in and bolted down. And I have taken it in and out several times. One thing that I noticed makes it difficult to get in is the black rubber frame guard at the rear of where the tank sits.
But, unlike Glen he rides mud ALOT. I on the other hand have no idea what mud is!
But, unlike Glen he rides mud ALOT. I on the other hand have no idea what mud is!
twmtatenrost
New member
2012 vs a 13
Sorry about that , ? 600 pounds difference 12 to 13. will probably go 12 and get mooses, guards etc . Aproxx $ 980 USD
Am i right in assuming the 12 is essentially the same engine with only different forks , shock link, plastics and exhaust?
thanks for your replies-- keep em comin!
Sorry about that , ? 600 pounds difference 12 to 13. will probably go 12 and get mooses, guards etc . Aproxx $ 980 USD
Am i right in assuming the 12 is essentially the same engine with only different forks , shock link, plastics and exhaust?
thanks for your replies-- keep em comin!
