2013 250R overvolting

[rubber Jonny]

Mine is direct to frame no paint or powder in the way. Also had it earthed to metal bench no change. Its not bad earth.

My electrics are standard no mods. Stator has never been changed.

 

[Jakobi]

Mine is direct to frame no paint or powder in the way. Also had it earthed to metal bench no change. Its not bad earth.

My electrics are standard no mods. Stator has never been changed.

Same same and same.

I have a feeling my 2010 model always did the same thing too. Always had inconsistancy with the trail tech speedo resetting itself which continued even after replacing the unit many hours on. I suspected it was the speedo unit, but never checked the voltage.

 

[Neil E.]

I don't know what to offer at this point. Maybe the next step is to put in an aftermarket full wave rectifier and unground all of the lighting. The stator, CDI and coil remain grounded as normal. The old regulator is removed.

Input to the new reg/rect is yellow and ground. Output from the reg/rect is DC on red and blue wires. Red is used as positive and goes to the headlight switch. From there power goes to the headlight as normal.

The original ground wires at the headlight and tail light are disconnected and moved to the new blue wire. This means the lighting is not frame/chassis grounded. It only gets DC negative via the reg/rect blue wire (we are isolating/floating the reg/rect output by doing this).

The tail light can be connected to the new red all the time. The brake light switch will be connected to the new red wire and the switch output will be connected to the brake light filament.

No battery is needed. If a battery is added, then white and ground can power the reg/rect so the voltage is a bit higher and will charge the battery.
Just to recap, the stator has three connections: engine/frame ground plus yellow OR white wire. Yellow = most of the windings, white = all of the windings.

 

[Jakobi]

Woah. I'll need to read that a few times.. my electrical knowledge is pretty below average.

Is there any chance this could be a stator issue?

 

[Neil E.]

I doubt it. Going back to basics, the flywheel has permanent magnets and it revolves around the stator windings. This produces current in the windings and we get our electrical power. The stator windings can go bad and output suffers or they can go "open" and we have no output.

The stator only delivers power directly proportional to RPM. The higher the RPM the higher the voltage. The whole issue centers around controlling the voltage which brings us right back to the regulator.

Maybe it's time to try a regulator from a different brand of 2T motorcycle and see what happens (Leonelli quality problem maybe).

 

[rubber Jonny]

Neil i hqve a trailtech regulator it makes no difference. the dc conversion is a solution I have considered but its a bit beyond my knowledge to come up with a wiring diagram. I have considered making a standard style temporary loom to rule out the standard loom being faulty. What's your opinion on that please?

 

[Neil E.]

Johnny, that is a good plan, however I don't know how the loom itself can cause the issues. For the work involved it's probably easier to convert the lighting to DC. I'll make a simple diagram for Jake so he can see what I'm driving at.

 

[Neil E.]

You would have to trace out the wires to confirm the actual stock colours and connection points, but this is the gist of what's going on. Note that in the battery setup you would need a main toggle to turn off power to the lights (or they would be on all the time).

 

[Neil E.]

Neil I have a trailtech regulator it makes no difference.

The only way I could see a loom issue would be if the white wire was making contact with the yellow wire. Even then the voltage would not be that much higher. At the very worst it would be 25% more but the regultor should still handle it.

 

[Neil E.]

The wiring changes might not be as much work as you think. It's more a matter of separating out the ground wires and having only the ground wires for the lighting connected to the blue wire.

 

[Jakobi]

What's the best way to test the regulator off the bike?

I'll drop a filter on the 2010 model and kick it in the guts and see how it behaves today if I get the chance.

 

[Neil E.]

I think you need a powerstat to really test it (variable voltage AC transformer). You could gradually increase the voltage above 14V and it should hold at about 13V - 14v. Maybe the lack of a battery highlights the problem. The battery typically absorbs small spikes.

 

[rubber Jonny]

I've tried running my bike from both white and yellow wires from the static just to see what happens. Did wonder if it had been wired incorrectly wrong colours or something. Made no difference at all.

 

[Neil E.]

Just a note to mention that my "DC with battery" diagram is only meant to show a battery for having some lighting with the engine off. It is not suitable for an estart application.

 

[Jakobi]

Checked the 2010 model, and it seems to be regulating at 15V from what I can tell (quickly checked).

I'll pull the regulator from this bike and switcharoo it. See what happens next.

 

[rubber Jonny]

I think it's a intermittent problem. The 15 - 20 volts you see at home are not the big issue I bet it wacks for power for a moment through everything to blow the bulb like that.

 

[Jakobi]

Mine seems pretty consistantly over volting. 20V isn't a whole load, but its also just cracking the throttle on the stand, which imo is different to holding it pinned at 9500rpm for sustained durations (something I won't test on the stand - too much noise).

 

[rubber Jonny]

Mine seems pretty consistantly over volting. 20V isn't a whole load, but its also just cracking the throttle on the stand, which imo is different to holding it pinned at 9500rpm for sustained durations (something I won't test on the stand - too much noise).

That what I mean. Voltage will be different when riding with proper load on engine. Bet it goes over 20 when riding. 20 doesn't seem enough to shatter the glass.

 

[Jakobi]

Got me stumped. Tried a 3rd OEM reg from my old bike. Still revs up to 20V easily on the stand, and probably much further on the trail. I haven't switched the headlight back on.

I'm just gonna ride it!

 

[barossi73]

would adding length to the wiring loom or using different weight/resistance wire help drag the volts down?