2013 250R overvolting

I should switch the headlight back on and see if it blows. I have a feeling its done this since new
 
my 13 has a 2nd small pilot bulb below(nz)that used to be on even when main light switch was off,i never noticed if it stayed on when i switched the main bulb on also but if it did wouldnt it absorb some of the excess V?if its meant to run 2nd bulb all the time but its blown wouldnt that increase V to main bulb and maybe blow that too?do you have the 2nd bulb or different spec?ha!perhaps the 2nd small bulb is the factory cure for the overvolting problem?what about a couple of hid's if all else fails?
 
Do have the second bulb, and indeed its blown. I should replace it. I believe the switch has the option where to have no lights, the little bulb, or the big in hi/low. I could be wrong.
 
Has anyone gotten to the bottom of this yet
I noticed mine is showing up to 40v on my trail tech when I rev it without the headlight on?
This can't be good for it
 
Negative! Mines still doing the same thing. Pretty sure it has done this since the day I bought it. 110hrs racked up now. Not sure if the bulbs blew from the same thing. I replaced the headlight, but never run it to see if it lasts.
 
Have you found a solution to this problem?

I'm getting over 16 volts on mine. I bought a led h4 bulb and it shuts off when i rev the engine. The regular h4 has not blown yet but i blew 3 small led bulbs.

My voltage regulator is an aftermarket one and was installed in april.
 
Sounds like your regulator is not working correctly. Make sure it is grounded well otherwise your voltage may be higher than normal.
 
Have you found a solution to this problem?

I'm getting over 16 volts on mine. I bought a led h4 bulb and it shuts off when i rev the engine. The regular h4 has not blown yet but i blew 3 small led bulbs.

My voltage regulator is an aftermarket one and was installed in april.

Is it a 2013 without a battery/e-start?

I still haven't resolved mine.
 
I don't know what to offer at this point. Maybe the next step is to put in an aftermarket full wave rectifier and unground all of the lighting. The stator, CDI and coil remain grounded as normal. The old regulator is removed.

Input to the new reg/rect is yellow and ground. Output from the reg/rect is DC on red and blue wires. Red is used as positive and goes to the headlight switch. From there power goes to the headlight as normal.

The original ground wires at the headlight and tail light are disconnected and moved to the new blue wire. This means the lighting is not frame/chassis grounded. It only gets DC negative via the reg/rect blue wire (we are isolating/floating the reg/rect output by doing this).

The tail light can be connected to the new red all the time. The brake light switch will be connected to the new red wire and the switch output will be connected to the brake light filament.

No battery is needed. If a battery is added, then white and ground can power the reg/rect so the voltage is a bit higher and will charge the battery.
Just to recap, the stator has three connections: engine/frame ground plus yellow OR white wire. Yellow = most of the windings, white = all of the windings.

Does anyone know an aftermarket full wave rectifier that can be used?
 
I used a cheapo 4wire scooter one from Aliexpress on my racebike fitted with a CR250 iignition and it worked a treat. But Iwas running a large 25v capacitor to help smooth things out. A battery of course would be better still.

Like this. Buy a couple in case you wire it the wrong way.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4-Wire-Male-Plug-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-For-GY6-Moped-Scooter-Motorcycle-ATV-Quad-Dirt-Bike/32255317501.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.28.Wg0J4Q&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_8,searchweb201602_2_10057_10056_10065_10037_10055_10054_10069_301_10059_10058_10017_10070_10060_10061_10052_10062_10053_10050_10051,searchweb201603_1&btsid=290c18b6-2d1e-4f72-9ab2-f6c624122649
 
I would think so but can'tvouch. I found a diagram for the scooter and just replicated.
 
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