2013 ec 300 e wirering questions

[Ole farmer]

Makeing my 300 a snow bike ,timbersled, and need to run two carb heaters for carb ice, is there enough extra for this and still charge the batt.? I see on the wirering diagram the front light wire is attached half way on the stator and looks to be ac and the other wire from the stator goes in to the reg-rec. and comes out on its own. And thoughts???

 

[Neil E.]

What wattage are your carb heaters?

As resistance elements they will work on AC or DC. The simplest method is to hook them to your headlight wire and not use the headlight. That would have them operating only when the engine is running.

You can hook them up to the battery, but you need to add a switch. Estart bikes are good for about 70 watts peak and the worst you will do is run down the battery. If this happens you can kickstart the bike anyway, so it's no big deal to try it.

Those two wires on the stator are doing roughly the same job, the white wire is just farther up the winding for a bit higher voltage that the rectifier converts to DC. So basically some of the bike runs on AC and some runs on DC, but the total available power is still 70 watts.

I would add a switch and hook them up to DC. This gives you the option of warming the carb before startup when it is extremely cold (if needed).

 

[Ole farmer]

Thanks Neil, I was hoping you would respond. As far as charging I have gotten different answers as if the stator will charge the batt. Some say not. The head light is 35 watts so am going to use it and hopefully have enough.useing the ktm heaters. Does you batt work all day and is there a bigger stator a peron can by..

 

[Neil E.]

Electrosport in the UK makes a 3 phase stator kit that has a much higher output. Many folks have said the quality is suspect so you'd only know you if you got a good one by trying it.

On a stock bike, the battery is only used for starting the bike. On my setup, I have everything on DC (made a new harness). This is because I have a pair of LED lights with internal electronics and also a PWM controller that requires DC. If I do more than two hours of night riding at full brightness, the battery will run down. Keep in mind that I'm riding single track and not using all the engine RPM.

In your case the revs will probably be high all the time. I think you will be OK. It all depends on your total draw for lights and heaters. Even in the worst scenario your kickstarter will bail you out of trouble.

 

[Ole farmer]

On the electrical drawing they show a separate winding for the ecu, then a set of winding that the head light connects half way up the winding and that wire just branches off to the reg and goes to the headlight, I think to regulate voltage, and the other wire goes into the reg-rectifier and a separate re exits, that is now I think dc-regulated for the batt charging. What do you run the ecu On as it seems to be unregulated ac according to the wirering diagram. Sorry for all the questions. Also do you know of any small dc generating units that could be mounted on the snowbike that would generate power when in motion.thanks

 

[Neil E.]

Correct. The ECU is powered by a separate winding. The magnetic pickup (black cube outside the flywheel) triggers the discharge.

Voltage regulation occurs on the yellow wire output (AC). That "halfway point" isn't actually halfway, it's just drawn that way for illustration purposes.
Voltage regulation and rectification occurs on the white wire output (AC changed to DC in the reg./rect. unit).

I don't know of any small generators or alternators that you could hook up (never had a need to search out something).

 

[Ole farmer]

Talked to trail tec and they told me to call Ricky stator. They said there upgrade will give me a total of at least 100 watts dc with there reg,gec and there rewound stator for around 160 bucks.

 

[Neil E.]

A word of caution: the stock reg./rect. is halfwave because one side of the system is grounded (chassis ground). This ground is shared by both the AC and DC systems.

If you make changes, you probably should convert to a full DC system. In this case the bottom end of the stator winding is removed from ground. In a full DC system you use a full wave rectifier. Only one side of it can be grounded (stops being full wave if you ground both sides).

In a full DC system normally the stator is floating (ie not grounded) and the DC output is grounded. This means all electrical devices can connect to a "hot" wire and chassis ground to work.

It is possible to float the DC output if needed. This would be the case with a rewound stator that has one end of the winding grounded as a standard hookup. Note that all your other wiring has to be floating as well. An example of this is the head/tail light bulb that connects to power and the negative battery terminal (which is NOT connected to chassis ground).

Be sure to talk to someone technical at Ricky stator and ask for a wiring diagram. The main thing to note is where the ground point will be so you are clear which side of the system is floating. "Floating" is just another term for "isolating".

 

[Ole farmer]

Thanks for the heads-up. If Ricky stator does it they say they will scrap the charging windings but leave the ecu windings in tack. I will talk to them and make sure I isolate the ecu ground and will post what I had to do to make it work.

 

[Neil E.]

The CDI (ecu) hookup does not need to be altered. It functions separately from the rest of the system. The ignition coil is frame grounded.

This wiring topic pertains to lighting or accessories only. Ricky Stator will likely NOT ground the lighting windings and will supply you with a full wave rectifier. Your battery negative terminal will then be frame grounded. The AC side of the system will float.

On my setup I isolated the stator ground and installed a full wave rectifier but found no improvement over the stock setup. I regrounded the stator and reinstalled the halfwave rectifier. The frame ground is thus again shared by all components and works fine. So my system is fully DC based on halfwave rectification.

Aftermarket companies usually only supply full wave rectifiers, so therefore the stator ground must be removed (floated/isolated).

Theoretically a full wave rectifier is better, but for the sake of battery charging, halfwave is sufficient. The battery acts like a big filter for the choppier waveform.

 

[chasedittrich]

2013 gas gas 300 xc wiring problem

I just bought a 2013 gas gas 300 xc e with 20 hours on it. The previous owner pulled the electric starter and all the wiring harness. When I bought the bike it came with all the stuff including the original harness. While swapping back over to the original harness with the starter I have confused myself on the wiring. The diagram on the gas gas manual does not help me much as I am not good at reading wiring diagrams. If anyone has a simple diagram pictures of the wiring by the motor or could walk me through this it would be very much appreciated as I do not want to spend almost $300 for the dealer to do the wiring. Thank you.