2015 EC 300 Countershaft seal

A RET?N SALIDA CAMBIO SIFHT SEAL #ME25636046
This is what i get for buying a GASGAS i guess and not listening to all my friends and getting a more common bike.
I'm in the process of doing a top end rebuild and while i have the motor off the bike figured i'd change the kicker shaft since its been broke for months and i've been pop starting but also i am changing worn parts like the countershaft sprocket and bearing plus seal. but to order each of the parts from the only website i can find parts is tedious and expensive. https://www.ktm-parts.com/ME25636046.html

Does anyone have any good websites for ordering parts other than ebay, amazon, or aomc.mx?
I am tired of not knowing if parts will fit my bike and ordering them anyway taking chances.
Why doesn't gasgas have parts other than trials bikes listed on there site for sale? How do you sale a 2015-2018 e-start bike and not offer any of the parts? I am really tempted to get this together nice and running and sell, then make the move to husqavarna or beta. Perferably beta (but nervous they would be the same)
It's cool and all to be on a bike nobody else has around my city but taking it for major repairs and getting parts is beginning to be a drag.
Hopefully signing up for this forum you guys can help change my mind and i can continue to be the 2stroke loving braaaper i was when i bought this money pit!!! :D
 

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2nd hand kickstart shaft from an earlier model is the ticket mate,they don't have that stupid unwanted groove that takes away the torsional strength.
Try ebay,I've found some there..
 
2nd hand kickstart shaft from an earlier model is the ticket mate,they don't have that stupid unwanted groove that takes away the torsional strength.
Try ebay,I've found some there..

I have heard this but unfortunately already have the OEM kicker shaft from AOMC.MX but it came only the shaft itself so i will have to disassemble the parts and re-assemble.

You would think they sell it as an assembled kit.
 
I've never had problems getting parts for any of the three Gas Gas models I own.

https://www.gasgaspartsguy.com/index.htm

Matto's Cycle (website listed above) has been great to deal with.

I have because i couldn't find any of these parts websites using google but I thank you very kindly. I have already visted gasgaspartsguy.com and spent close to 300$ and have several nice things on the way. so glad i joined and got help.
 
I have heard this but unfortunately already have the OEM kicker shaft from AOMC.MX but it came only the shaft itself so i will have to disassemble the parts and re-assemble.

You would think they sell it as an assembled kit.

You wont have any problems swapping over the parts (spring ,plastic spacer and ratchet assembly) DO take note on the spring and ratchet location on dissassembly!!!
Take some pics so you don't get lost!
 
You wont have any problems swapping over the parts (spring ,plastic spacer and ratchet assembly) DO take note on the spring and ratchet location on dissassembly!!!
Take some pics so you don't get lost!

Oh yes definetly taking lots of pictures as it is my first time disassembling a gasgas ec300
 

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I may have an older kickstarter assembly and the countershaft parts for you. I'll check Saturday when I get home.
 
So I'm pretty much stuck. I don't have an auto mechanic grade impact gun and I can't seem to get this clutch baskets nut loose. I only need to move the clutch so I can remove the kicker shaft assy right? I can't take it off without removing the clutch I tried several times. not enough room unfortunately. so what tricks are there to remove this nut. I flattened the washer. it won't budge. its not reverse thread right?

I can't seem to find anything to hold while turning it other than the (old used )countershaft sprocket on the other side being driven when I apply pressure.
 

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As per other thread:

Lefty loosey. Should be around 70Nm on it from memory. Easiest way is to give it a couple ugga duggas with with impact (electric or air).

Otherwise there are basket holding tools you can use but as you've stated the basket is quite soft. You could also try applying some downward pressure onto the plates themselves. That may add enough friction to hold everything in place while you (or someone else) cracks the nut undone.
 
The old standby when you haven't got the right tools: put a copper penny between the primary gear and clutch basket gear to lock the gears. Note that a soft metal is required to avoid damaging the gears. A piece of leather may be OK too, just be sure you can also lock the engine in the opposite direction when you go to do the nut back up.
 
What I said would work for the primary nut. For the clutch hub the best way is to take two old clutch plates (one steel and one fibre) and rivet or bolt them together. This plate setup then allows the clutch basket to hold the hub.
 
What I said would work for the primary nut. For the clutch hub the best way is to take two old clutch plates (one steel and one fibre) and rivet or bolt them together. This plate setup then allows the clutch basket to hold the hub.

Great idea!
 
Thank you

Thanks guys for the ideas of getting off the clutch boss nut.

Correct size ended up being a 1 & 3/16th inch socket.
after putting the motor on a ?sturdy? table adding straps to hold the motor from turning up when applying pressure and a pipe wrench on the old countershaft sprocket the thing came loose with body weight got so pics of the jerry rig.
Think I?ll use it to tighten too...

But now I?m at the piston ring gap setting procedure and according to the weisco instructions standard minimum clearance is bore size? x .004 equals clearance.

My 72mm = 2.8 ?x .004 =.0112? which is very very small
It pretty much seems already big enough the way they came. Has anyone ever had luck just throwing them in without shaving?
I don?t even think they have feeler gauges this small???

Kicker shaft is replaced now I just need to replace clutch disc and re-assemble...:cool:

Got my gaskets from UK finally after customs checked them:D
And I got some cool gear I can?t wait to show off. GasGas hoodie from GasGaspartsguy is awesome. So fresh
 

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Piston ring gap on 72mm bore (2.8 inches)

0.12mm will be fine for a 300 mate.

Wait because this is important.
My math equation is in inches not mm
(per wiseco instructions bore inch x .004 inch equals gap inch)
So my equation was .0112 of an inch not mm
Your gap .12mm is only .004 of an inch which is smaller than my equation
I?m confused now:confused: see pics for wiseco instructions
 

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Wait because this is important.
My math equation is in inches not mm
(per wiseco instructions bore inch x .004 inch equals gap inch)
So my equation was .0112 of an inch not mm
Your gap .12mm is only .004 of an inch which is smaller than my equation
I?m confused now:confused: see pics for wiseco instructions

My apologies mate, it should have been 12 thou, which should be 0.30mm. Sorry!
 
My apologies mate, it should have been 12 thou, which should be 0.30mm. Sorry!


Just bought a feeler gauge and out of the box the rings are .014 / .35mm
So I?m good mate! :D thanks

Hey looks like you have a 2018 GasGas aren?t they fuel injected or am I confusing them with betas??? How do you like it?
 

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