Sorry, this is not what you asked about but I'm trying to address the real issue in why most say these early starting systems had issues.
I would say something on yours isn't spaced/angled correctly.
I'm just running a 12v 240cc battery in my 2011 and my bike starts great. The key is to get the gear mesh right on all the gears. There is the bendix to the fly wheel mesh and the bendix to the starter motor mesh. If you get them both right then it will work with little effort.
You want the starter motor to sit flush in the flywheel cover. If there is a gap between the starter's mount holes and the powervalve cover mount you need a shim/spacer to take that gap up. This ensures that the starter motor drive gear is in proper alignment with the bedix's driven gear and not meshing at an angle.
Next, the bendix teeth should be engaging almost fully but not bottomed out on the flywheel gear. You can use some white lithium grease/paste to put on the flywheel gear, assemble and try to start it, and then disassemble to see what the mesh pattern is. Too tight... remove shim(s) from behind flywheel gear. Too loose, add a shim(s) until it's where it should be. There are lots of vids on YT showing better ways to check for proper mess than my method but it has worked for me. Oh, always use the same brand gasket for the cover so that it is always the same thickness if you have to open it for some reason. It's tiny differences like that that can make it start great or not.
The real problem with these years e-start system is that it is subject to too many manufacturing tolerances (variances in cover castings, gears, and crank shaft side to side in the cases) so every system has to be adjusted just a little differently. The key is to understand these issues and take the time to sort it out. Hope it helps in some way even though it's not what you were asking about.
