A few ?'s- sorting new bike

[adv rider]

Well I have been working on my bike, in an attempt to ready it for it's first ride. So I have been slowly disassembling so I will know my bike- which is 11' 250 race. Here's a few ?'s, remarks
1 - How is everyone getting the wiring out from airbox to remove subframe? The large plug for the ignition box doesn't fit thru wiring hole
2 - How is the quality of the original chain? And what with no master link, I have only seen that on street bikes. And has anyone installed a clip type master link, and what brand? Their is no brand marking on chain
3 - It looks like I need to pull the swing arm to remove linkage for service- True? Also looks like I can't remove lower shock bolt without removing linkage.
4 - I never seen that type of plastic bell on the carburetor, At first I thought the airbox boot hose clamp was in the wrong position..but once I pulled the subframe back I saw that plastic bell I realized the clamp was in correct spot. Is that bell permanently on there? Has anyone ever had one loosen up and allow unfiltered air{dirt}into engine?
5 - float height was at 7mm, 40/180, going to reset float, leave the 40, and try 178. I have a NECW needle coming
6 - has anyone put a # plate in front? from what model, and did it bolt on nicely?
7 - Can I remove the lighting wiring harness with no issues?
8 - Is that a map switch mounted on my coolant hose? I thought I remembered reading about it, but not sure. If so, where can I learn more about it.
That's all for now, i'm sure as I get further torn down, I will find more stuff.

 

[Jakobi]

1 - I haven't had to remove the subframe. I just keep loosening it and rotating it up when I need access to the rear.
2 - Good quality. I can't remember the brand but it held up really well. Someone will advise the brand. Once you know you can get a master link in that brand if you need to break it and add one. I never added one. There really isn't a need. Replace that alloy rear sprocket when it shows wear and you'll get a better run out of the chain.
3 - For a full service you really should be removing the swing arm pivot as well and giving that some fresh grease too. You can get most of the linkage out with the swingarm still on but it means you miss the front pivot and the actual bearings in the swingarm (rear underside) are harder to repack with it on the bike. To access lower shock mount just remove the front dogbone/linkage pivot at the rocker. Roll them down and you have access to the lower shock. Easy. Note: not sure if your 2011R uses the revised linkage that 2012 bikes used. If so its different to my 2010 and other 2011 models (and the shocks use different clevis').
4 -Haven't seen one either. Ask singletracker. Haha!
5- Start with a 175/172 main with that needle in a 250. For the AS2 stock float height is 6.5mm I think. 7-8mm is a better number due to the angle the carb sits in the frame at (lower fuel level).
6-
7-
8- Map switch is black with a toggle button. A cloud and some sunshine. Cloud retards the timing a bit softening up the bottom and mid. The Sun is fun. Ramps up harder faster. The timing changes can easily be lost in bad jetting. You'll notice once its dialled the switch will have more effect. I personally never use it (leave it on sunshine), but that's just me.

 

[adv rider]

1 - I haven't had to remove the subframe. I just keep loosening it and rotating it up when I need access to the rear.
2 - Good quality. I can't remember the brand but it held up really well. Someone will advise the brand. Once you know you can get a master link in that brand if you need to break it and add one. I never added one. There really isn't a need. Replace that alloy rear sprocket when it shows wear and you'll get a better run out of the chain.
3 - For a full service you really should be removing the swing arm pivot as well and giving that some fresh grease too. You can get most of the linkage out with the swingarm still on but it means you miss the front pivot and the actual bearings in the swingarm (rear underside) are harder to repack with it on the bike. To access lower shock mount just remove the front dogbone/linkage pivot at the rocker. Roll them down and you have access to the lower shock. Easy. Note: not sure if your 2011R uses the revised linkage that 2012 bikes used. If so its different to my 2010 and other 2011 models (and the shocks use different clevis').
4 -Haven't seen one either. Ask singletracker. Haha!
5- Start with a 175/172 main with that needle in a 250. For the AS2 stock float height is 6.5mm I think. 7-8mm is a better number due to the angle the carb sits in the frame at (lower fuel level).
6-
7-
8- Map switch is black with a toggle button. A cloud and some sunshine. Cloud retards the timing a bit softening up the bottom and mid. The Sun is fun. Ramps up harder faster. The timing changes can easily be lost in bad jetting. You'll notice once its dialled the switch will have more effect. I personally never use it (leave it on sunshine), but that's just me.

More good info- Thank you! The bike came w/ supersprox so I was concerned that I should get a regina o-ring to replace stocker. I will be removing everything for rear suspension, and kickstand! But it would be nice to be able to just grease linkage quickly. Not sure if it has 12' style linkage- I realize that there is so much I don't know about this bike!!
I was thinking about the main jet- I will start out with a 172, I like a crisp throttle response, and I am not a revver in the woods. Float will be tried at 8.5 mm like another member tried. I will try out the mapping when I have it jetted correctly- we ride in a lot of wet/mud/rain on daily basis

 

[Jakobi]

The stock chain is an o-ring chain A search might turn up which brand it is. I recall it being covered in the past. Its quality and will last well. Any alloy sprocket won't last too long. If its a Superproxx stealth thats ace. I've been running a 50T on mine for the last couple thousand kms with a DID x ring chain. Its holding up stellar. I ride my fair share of mud here in Aus too. Tracks here are a bit of everything from 1st and 2nd gear single to 3rd and 4the flowing trail, coupled in with some transport sections too.

Quickest way to check which linkage its got is to look at the low shock mount. On 2011 and previous the shock clevis is forked and sits either side of the mount. On the new ones the shock runs an eye similar to yamahas. I don't find the linkage hard to service, other than that you need about 6 different sized spanners to do it.

 

[gasgasman]

The old chains were made by Ossa. Don't know on the newer bikes.

There is really no reason to remove the subframe.
The shock can be removed out the right side of the bike. There's post on these forums on how to do it.

 

[swazi_matt]

i am sure my original chain was a Regina o-ring

 

[adv rider]

new bike

Thanks for the info. As far as subframe goes, I just like to get stuff out of the way. I like to remove subframe and degrease/ hose down airbox regularly. Currently it is just flipped up using top two mounts as hinge.
It does have supersprox stealth? {2 pc} .
It is a 2011 linkage

 

[adv rider]

New bike prep

Well i got most of the linkage greased/reassembled- That was a joke, I've never dealt with such a difficult design. I could remove/grease/reassemble my kxf linkage in less than hr. I was cursing and asking myself why i bought a GasGas.
I suppose it will get easier each time i do it,But really...removing chain buffer to bolt out. Then could not get socket on that right link bracket, and it was soo tight. I just left it-no regrease on that one as i could not remove bolt all the way. So i greased lower shock,linkage at swingarm,swingarm pivot, and 1 other.

Got the N3cw needle, set float height at 8.1mm, 40/172. I will see how that works monday. Also flushed gas tank, got some Motul 710 to try @ 40:1 .

I have been putting dielectric on all electrical connections too. I plan to ride it a few times, then I will grease the steering head, and try to grease that 1 linkage pivot again.

I also loosened up shock preload, and i am going to try it at 12mm like I seen in a thread about setting it up like that- We'll see-Never tried setting it up like that

 

[Jakobi]

My thoughts the same on the linkage. The bonus is that the o-ring design seals really well so you don't have to get in there often!

Bump the main jet up on your jets. 172 is too small for a 250 with that needle. Start with a 178 and work from there.

The preload on the shock thing comes second to sag figures imo. You want around 30-40mm of static sag. With the correct spring this will give you around 10mm of preloads. Then use the fine tuning to put the race sag where it gives the best feeling (stability vs turning).

 

[GMP]

12mm is borderline for preload. For best ride in the trash you want it less than 10 mm, even if you have to change springs to do it. Try it yourself, start at 12 and drop 1mm at a time, riding the same section of trail. If steering falls off, go back in and tune with compression. Sag is a guideline, because its only one variable in the steering equation, which also depends on fork setup. Get the rear to feel basically right, then you can fine tune the fork. You would be surprised how well they steer with well over 100 mm sag. The PFP fork is a bit stiff and may not settle enough when new so back The PFP out. I dropped my fork spring preload as well but start here first and get a few hours on the bike. Thats a great bike, proven chassis with a modern fork. Good luck!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[adv rider]

set-up

I will change it to the main to 178, I was using my memory..which is terrible.
And being as I have no experience with this bike, I will try the 12mm preload and work from there. I figure it needs to break-in anyway, so what ever I start with will change after some time.
Usually I would set the sag at 100-105 and see where i'm at as far as spring rate. So this is throwing me off doing it by spring preload. But I will give it a try.

Sorry about my ignorance but... What is PFP? I really have no idea, and a search of it, came up with nothing

 

[adv rider]

set-up

Well bike is back together, fresh super unleaded ,put the 178 main in, Hour meter installed, check spokes- found most of left side spokes somewhat loose{ had a dull sound when hit with wrench} , set the rear shock preload@ 11MM
Having some wiring connection issues-noted in the electrical section
I was trying to set up the suspension clicker baseline- do I need a special socket for the fork preload? or can I just use a wrench?

Also the shock is confusing me- the manual shows a screwdriver slot on bottom of shock, but I just have a know to turn? It doesn't seem to have any clicks to it. Or is both reb/comp up top on reservoir?

I am having so much trouble with this-never dealt with Ohlin's/marzocchi before. I understand the kyb/showa stuff just fine. I still have no idea what PFP is?

 

[Jakobi]

The Ohlins shock has a rebound knob on the bottom just above the clevis. Turn it right all the way in until it seats. Then back it out to where you want it. Glenn says, be careful running less than 15 turns out as the cross over will start to interfer with the compression. If you don't believe it, close the rebound and try and push the bike down. If you come out too far the clicks will get fainter and fainter until it feels like its free wheeling. Compression clicker is at the top.

The forks. PFP is just that adjuster on the top inside the cap. I believe from memory its a 22mm socket that fits it. That may be what you're referring to as preload.

Clicker baseline - Start in the middle (say everything 15 clicks out) and ride slow. Make adjustments as neccessary. The suspension is no different to anything else really.

Check the spokes again after your first ride!

Now.. GO RIDE!!

 

[adv rider]

Set-up

Adjusted the rebound- I can barely turn it? Are they all very hard? It's new and never seen dirt, so I don't see it getting any easier, once it get dirt/water in their. I got it to where I wanted it though-took 5 min.

But at least I get to try it out!! I will give report later

 

[adv rider]

new bike set-up

Well its not a new bike anymore

put 1.2 hrs on today- I like it!!! Not sure of the weight difference from my kxf450, but it felt so nimble. And the starting suspension settings i used felt really good. It seemed like i was going faster than i was on my kxf- I can't wait until i get used to it.

Now for the problem With only .1 on the meter my rear wheel locked up-luckily i was back to my vehicle as i wanted to check spark plug,fasteners,etc. The brake pin came out half way and jammed between caliper and hub. I didn't realize the pin was only held with a clip. Luckily i was where i was, pad only had some minor damage. So i straightend out the anti-rattle shim, got pad back in, and safety wired the pin in.

After that i was checking the brakes every 2 minutes, But i had no other issues-and the bike was awesome! Can i put a threaded pin in the caliper?

Now it's time to fine tune the jetting,and suspension. And decide on guards to purchase

 

[Jakobi]

Fantastic. Didn't realise they came with push pins on yours. My 2010 runs the threaded kind so you should have no issues getting a replacement. I have a couple in my spares kits.

 

[adv rider]

new bike

I was looking over the bike today, and I can see signs of possible leakage at head gasket, and base gasket. Has anyone retorqued,or had to retorque their head/cylinder when new?

It's only extremely minor- the dirt is visibly darker in spots around the head/base sealing surface. it only has 1.2 hrs on it. So although it is an easy fix if it becomes worse. I hopefully won't need to until it has at least 80 hrs.

 

[twowheels]

I was looking over the bike today, and I can see signs of possible leakage at head gasket, and base gasket. Has anyone retorqued,or had to retorque their head/cylinder when new?

It's only extremely minor- the dirt is visibly darker in spots around the head/base sealing surface. it only has 1.2 hrs on it. So although it is an easy fix if it becomes worse. I hopefully won't need to until it has at least 80 hrs.

The head-to-cylinder joint is sealed by a pair of o-rings. It is possible that some of the coolant that is supposed to be captured between them has found it's way past the outer ring. Was the squish set in the head (in which case it has been off)?

I'd check the base nut torque (snug ) and tighten it if needed. You can check if it is an issue by spraying a SMALL AMOUNT of carb cleaner or ether at the dirty spot - if it's leaking to the point of being a problem the rpms will race up.

 

[adv rider]

leak

The head-to-cylinder joint is sealed by a pair of o-rings. It is possible that some of the coolant that is supposed to be captured between them has found it's way past the outer ring. Was the squish set in the head (in which case it has been off)?

I'd check the base nut torque (snug ) and tighten it if needed. You can check if it is an issue by spraying a SMALL AMOUNT of carb cleaner or ether at the dirty spot - if it's leaking to the point of being a problem the rpms will race up.

I checked the head, cylinder torque- none loose, didn't get any movement out of them.

I am just going to clean it up, and see how it looks after the second ride. Maybe i'm being to paranoid about problems.

 

[Jakobi]

You'll know if its leaking, but its very unlikely. I mean all you are seeing is some darker dirt yeah? Got pics?? Oily or coolant? Last time I dropped the coolant I managed to splash some down the overflow tube when I was refilling it. The few drops that came out the overflow tube was dropping right down the front of the head. Could have sworn I had a leak.