Airboot quality

Neil E.

Active member
Or lack thereof. My airboot has very deep scratches on the inner surface. At first I thought it was cracking, but they are actually deep scratches. Is this just poor quality rubber or a dirty mold when the part was made? Has anyone else noticed this? The assembly work is shoddy, you can see the carb impression in the rubber. Notice how crooked the rim is; the end of the boot was not squared up on the back of the carb.

picture.php
 
Noticed both of the same ages back. The scratches are kind of in the bottom. It freaked me out initially too! Also agree that the mounting face at the carb is far from level. Firs flush around 3/4 and overlaps on the top RHS edge. From the same mould?
 
Poor molding process with too hard of a compound. Don't allow a poor fit on the intake bell, use heat and patience to make it right.


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Ahh mines different. Not as many scratches as that from what I remember. Also have a good fit on the boot, but some overlaps the carb more than it needs to.
 
Looks like the filter would barely seal on the tiny amount of flange that was left. That is definitely a 2012 hack job (dealer or factory). My airboot has rubbed paint off the shock spring.
 
Yes mine rubbed the shock spring too Neil. More so with the TTX as it runs an even larger diameter. Even more so again once removing the reed spacer too! Lectron fits much better and increases the clearances.
 
The airboot on our 2012 was hacked by the factory. It had a notch cut out of the filter sealing surface. I assumed an untrained empoyee made the modification as to make installation of the hard boot into the assembly easier. I filled the gap (and many others) with RTV.
No acceptable excuse for this lack of quality.:(
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k176/mcnut82/GasGas/IMG_1278_zps37f27efe.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k176/mcnut82/GasGas/IMG_1279_zpse7ec819c.jpg

The airboot contacting the sharp edge of the subframe spar is a packaging issue that needs to be addressed. It's possible that the filter sealing surface was broken off in handling, although you'd hope there was a visual inspection before it was assembled. Once it's in place I would doubt it gets looked at.

As a related aside, I re-seat the airfilter on the cage on every bike that comes out of a box.
 
I couldn't find the pic I took before I repaired it with silicone. It was purposely cut with a knife.
It was just one of many unacceptable design/manufacturing/build screw-ups on that bike. I found it a new home, far, far away.
 
I couldn't find the pic I took before I repaired it with silicone. It was purposely cut with a knife.
It was just one of many unacceptable design/manufacturing/build screw-ups on that bike. I found it a new home, far, far away.

Let it go man. Pretty much every post you have here is bagging on your bike and/or the distributor.
 
The hand made cut in the flange of the '12 appears to be a clearance mod, likely due to the last minute airbox change. Mine and my buddy's are fine, some perhaps excessive. Truth is, it does not matter as far as filter sealing. Since '07, the filter foam rim is captured and sealed between the "L" section of the cage frame and the inside EDGE of the airboot. Additional flange contact toward the outer edge is just gravy. The airbox is not in the sealing equation at all, it just provides an enclosure and structure. Its important to get your hands in there when installing a filter and make sure it is seated INSIDE the boot all the way around.
 
I'm still riding a 2011 250. I like the bike. I also ride a 2001 300. It's a good bike too. The '12 left a very bad taste in my mouth. Sorry. I guess the truth bugs some folks.
 
You may want to replace silicone with another flavor of sealant because gasoline turns most silicone sealants into jelly.
 
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