Bar bends??

roostafish

Gold Level Site Supporter
I've been pondering bar bends. I've been running the CR High, or equivalent for years. Now running the Pro Taper Enduro High. After a recent ride, I've thought, gee, I wonder if more sweep would be easier on the wrists? It may feel funny, but I did see that the Flexx Bar is available in as much as a 15 degree sweep. Again, just wondering what anyone's thoughts might be.

I am a stand up rider, so that may make a difference. I've noticed that sit down riders like low, pulled back bars. That wouldn't work for me, but sweep might get them a tiny bit closer without rotating them down.
 
roost,

IMO you may be going in the wrong direction. More sweep gave me more wrist problems, and makes it harder to fine tune position by rotation. Have you tried the newer stock GG bars of a KTM bend? Very straight. Just adjust height with spacers under the mounts. Depends on what clamps, perches you run now. Again, JMO.
 
I agree with Glen. Less sweep is better on the wrists and more comfy (for me at least) I use Trail Tech X bars in the low woods bend. 10 dgrees of sweep and plenty of room for levers and junk as they have a quick up sweep out of the bar clamp area and longer than most lever section. If you like the Flex Bars go with the 10 degree bend.

Where do your grips and the palm section of your gloves show the most wear? If it's at the end part of the grip or the fleshy part of your palm on the pinky side of the glove then the sweep of the bars is to much IMO.
 
Where do your grips and the palm section of your gloves show the most wear? If it's at the end part of the grip or the fleshy part of your palm on the pinky side of the glove then the sweep of the bars is to much IMO.

Exactly! This is what I found with CR Hi and Woods Hi bars, the KTM bend and GG bend cured it.

Jeff, could you measure the straight (controls) section length on those Trail Tech bars? I'm looking to upgrade the bars an my Hyper to something stronger without locating holes, but need control space.
 
Hey Roostafish -

Les and I used to run enduro high (woods high, hawkins bend, etc.) (which is similar to a CR mini high) - we have since switched over to Doug Henry bend for less pullback - easier on the wrists... I do trim 'em down a bit for quicker turning and easier maneuvering between the trees.

jeff
 
I'm not very hard on grips. My wear seems to be more in the thumb area if anything. I used a Doug Henry bend on one bike I had, but let the bar go with the bike because I wanted to go back to the CR High.

Thanks for the advice though. If I do the FLexx Bar, I'll not rock the boat and go with what is most similar to what I have, which, if I decipher the code right, would be 12 degree sweep, Woods High. I think.

I do like my bars 31" wide. Using the old push up method, I should be narrower, but I don't feel in control.
 
Exactly! This is what I found with CR Hi and Woods Hi bars, the KTM bend and GG bend cured it.

Jeff, could you measure the straight (controls) section length on those Trail Tech bars? I'm looking to upgrade the bars an my Hyper to something stronger without locating holes, but need control space.

Glen,

New set of uncut X-Bars @ 31" wide have 7.75" I would say of usuable space. You might be able to cram it to 8".

I ordered a pair of their taller version X Bars at one point but for some strange reason the bends were quite different instead of just being taller and I didn't like them. I really like these low ones now though and I cut them to 29-30". Even at 29" no lever issues.
 
Thanks Jeff, that might just work, I'll have to measure up all the controls. The radial master cyls and switchgear take more space than on a dirtbike, but the throttle is the same as a KTM or Husky 4-stroke.

My goal is to make the bike more survivable and cheaper to fix in a simple tipover. Real metal handguards, relocated directionals. The stock bars are a nice bend but like swiss cheese, and have been known to snap. If the bike falls over now its big $$ to fix, with good bars and handguards the plastic should never touch the ground.
 
Yeah that could get very $$$, good idea! A buddy of mine works at a BMW/Ducati dealership and fills me in on the prices of things and the coin some people drop on the bikes. Astounding!
 
I found a good bend for me. As suggested above, I went with a straighter bar. The Ricky Carmichael High bend is super tall, straighter than the CR high, and ends up feeling pretty good. I went ahead and got MSR's version of the bend, the "Freestyle" bend. Silly. It has ended up being one of my favorite mods to my new bike. They are 30.5" wide stock, so no cutting required! They come with grips, safety wire, grip donuts and a nice bar pad, and are on special for dealers right now. I don't know what your dealer will charge, but I got the whole kit and caboodle for $50.
 
Smoking deal for sure!

I used those before I went to the Trail Tech bars. Not a bad bar. It's 2.2" sweep (55.88mm) translates to a 12* bend. I wanted even less and my bars are now a 1.57" sweep (40mm) and about a 10* bend (KTM really).

Straighter across bars (less sweep) seem easier on the wrists to me and pull you forward on the bike for better cornering. I've also read to use the lowest bar possible you can comfortably get away with for the proper attack position, weighting the front wheel and cornering. Very personal though so don't shoot the messenger.

Good luck with those!
 
Even with the tall bars I can get into a proper attack position. The huge benefit for me is I can just stand comfortably for every condition other than a special test. This is only critical now because of Six Days. If I can stand and just ride I am so much more relaxed at the end of the day, and frankly, the taller I can be on the bike, the further I can see down the trail, which for me translates to later braking. For sure, moto requires a good attack position, but enduro doesn't require it. The best enduro riders in the world look bored while they ride. I remember watching Shane Watts pass me, check after check(at a qualifier), and he didn't look like he was attacking anything, sure sounded like it though. During the final moto, he lapped all but two riders. He was attacking pretty good there, but still standing and looking forward. During my moto, Scott Summers lapped me, and he has the ugliest riding style I've ever seen, sitting down, elbows down. Hard to argue with though, he do know how to go.
 
Watch some of the national enduro series videos, when the s@#$ hits the fan, all bets are off and the textbook perfect riding style is out the window.

I can't stand tall bars or the submount, tried twice but it does not work for me. First ride I had new elbow pain that I never had before. I have long arms so maybe thats the problem, and like my bars low, straight and foward. I can sit when things get bad without feeling like a begging dog, and still have a good position standing with my head foward.
 
I have a friend with the same problem. Long arms. He also uses a low bend bar rotated forward. Certainly, a tall bar is not for everyone. That's probably why they make so many different bends of bar, not everybody is built the same.

I have ridden national enduros, and have seen lots of riding styles. True, even the most perfect of styles goes out the window when it goes awry, but with very few exceptions, the fast guys all stand up and look forward, all while being relaxed, not clenching their teeth, hands and toes.
 
Very true, Thats why it surprised me to see how low Lafferty's and Bobbit's bars were.
 
With all the talk about bars, where are your clamps ?* I run mine in the farthest forward position with YZ titan* bend bars.
 
Very true, Thats why it surprised me to see how low Lafferty's and Bobbit's bars were.

Not to mention David Knight who is like 6' 4" who also uses really low bars. Guy is brutally strong though and can take being bent over for hours at a time.

Lafferty's riding style obviously works for him also and he's a very strong guy but not your "model" of technique vs. a Shane Watts who is just lovely to watch and makes everything look so easy.
 
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