boring reed spacer question

gassergrant

New member
i no this has been done to death so i will apologize now low.
i removed the spacer on the reed block but found the carb is short of the air box.
how can i get round this with out making (bodge) something up

thanks grant
 
Mount the carb in the airboot, heat the airboot good with a hair dryer to soften it, and pull the carb into position/mount to manifold coupler. Continue heating evenly for a minute or so. Airboot will take a set in the new position. There is only one airboot, yours has taken a set in a compressed position from the spacer being installed.
 
That's scary. I'd hate for my newly spacerless and re-set boot to decide to re-take it's old set in the middle of a dusty trail.
 
Like GMP said. They will mould quite easily. I did this when I removed my spacer. No issues with it changing during a ride.
 
I may have to try the hair dryer trick

I had to replace the airbox on my GasGas 01 xc300 the original got destroyed by a tree branch harpoon. Ever since I got the new airbox I've had to fight to get both ends of the carb sealed good. Currently its not straight in the coupler to the reed block. Away on vacation now bike is with me set to go to my riding camp this weekend. Will try the hair dryer trick once I get home again.

Thanks for the info, Tim
 
I don't think they boost anything, they soften power. They add crankcase volume to the 300, which shares cases with the 250. I tried one in my old '00XC250 and took it out immediately.
 
all done, tha air box thingy was really soft and went in to place with out a fight got the hair dryer on it just tomake sure :)
 
Some say the spacer boosts bottom end while taking away some amount of top.

The two-stroke engine (plus intake and exhaust) is like a wood wind instrument. Adding or subracting lengths or passage ways changes the "tone."
 
Up date the bike has been transformed very happy
There is just one thing I've noticed if I'm sitting at the traffic lights for a bit. When I pull away it burbles a bit and takes a good thrash to clear, it did do this before but no were as bad once the bike is going it gone and am holding on for dear life lol
 
what's your jetting like?
could be anything... to big PJ to big MJ,needle position,needle too rich...
if it idles well, runs good once going, then it could be your PJ to big or drop the needle somewhat.
the above goes only if your reeds and all the rest of your engine is healthy.
 
what's your jetting like?
could be anything... to big PJ to big MJ,needle position,needle too rich...
if it idles well, runs good once going, then it could be your PJ to big or drop the needle somewhat.
the above goes only if your reeds and all the rest of your engine is healthy.

N1EF clip pos 2
178 MJ
42 PJ i have a 38 which i swaped for this one, may put it back
reeds are new carbon ones engine is healthy
 
N1EF clip pos 2
178 MJ
42 PJ i have a 38 which i swaped for this one, may put it back
reeds are new carbon ones engine is healthy

that needle is not the leanest there is...
if you can get your AS to work that would mean your PJ is correct and the next step IMHO would be to drop the needle 1 clip at a time till you can get it somewhat better, but to get it good, you'll probably need another needle.
i haven't decided yet on wich one to order if i'm getting back on the 300 since i'm on the 200 now :D
if you find that the AS has no effect on the idle, then you could try the 38 PJ, i have that one in too in the 300 and got it more or less ok.
just so long as you change 1 thing at a time.
i have to say, if you didn't adjust squish or taken the thick base gasket out and put a thin one in,getting a clean idle will be hard, though you can get the burble to go away with the carb adjustments.
just look in the jetting database for someone who's riding in the same conditions as you are, temp, elevation...

ciao, Hannes.
 
that needle is not the leanest there is...
if you can get your AS to work that would mean your PJ is correct and the next step IMHO would be to drop the needle 1 clip at a time till you can get it somewhat better, but to get it good, you'll probably need another needle.
i haven't decided yet on wich one to order if i'm getting back on the 300 since i'm on the 200 now :D
if you find that the AS has no effect on the idle, then you could try the 38 PJ, i have that one in too in the 300 and got it more or less ok.
just so long as you change 1 thing at a time.
i have to say, if you didn't adjust squish or taken the thick base gasket out and put a thin one in,getting a clean idle will be hard, though you can get the burble to go away with the carb adjustments.
just look in the jetting database for someone who's riding in the same conditions as you are, temp, elevation...

ciao, Hannes.

HI Hannes running a lot better, went out this weekend and happy with the bike now

thanks grant
 
All I did was put the 38PJ back in left every thing else
178 main
Air screw 1, 1/2
N1EF on clip 2
Very good low end and very good hard pull on full throttle lifting the wheel even in 4th gear lol :D
 
All I did was put the 38PJ back in left every thing else
178 main
Air screw 1, 1/2
N1EF on clip 2
Very good low end and very good hard pull on full throttle lifting the wheel even in 4th gear lol :D

that's what i got more or less in my 300 except i got the n1eG needle.
yours is slightly leaner but you could even concider going to an even leaner (thicker) needle to change power delivery,wich is not so linear but rather snappy, arm jerking:rolleyes:
some guys here speak of the CCK needle but that allso seems to be a gas guzzler and that's not good...
i've read numerous threads on needles and jets and still haven't figured out wich one would suit me best.
but as i said before, it doesn't matter for me now since i'm in love with my 200 now :D
when the time is right, and i'll be a better rider i'll switch back to the 300 maybe...

anyway, glad yours is running good for your likings now , have fun and ride as much as possible,as i try the same!

cheers, Hannes.
 
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