Brake pads
- Thread starter kyton
- Start date
StuJohnson
New member
Has anyone used the Galfer pads?
I need new front ones and found some on eBay for a pretty good deal.
Thanks
I need new front ones and found some on eBay for a pretty good deal.
Thanks
StuJohnson
New member
You have to compress the Pistons in
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I bought two sets of those on ebay in a package deal. I haven't used them yet because I can't seem to wear the stock pads out
desertgasser300
Banned
I went with tusk brand for the fronts and a set of EBC's on the rear. I do like the both of them.
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swazi_matt
Active member
You just need to open up the gap by pushing the piston back in. It is a good idea to clean the piston while it is all the way outOk, got new brake pads, i can fit the outer one ok. but it seems the caliper is to far over on the inside, therefore i can't get the inner one in. how do i rectify this.. I am totally noob to this stuff. At least i am learning something
As a side note the oem pads seem to just last forever maybe because most of my riding is dry
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Conditions and how you use them make a huge difference. I've just come out of our wet season and its taken its toll. 2 x ktm 300 engines up for rebuilds from ingesting the slop, another 3 mates doing chains and sprockets, and myself got less than 30hrs out of a set of genuine nissin sintered rear pads, shy of 40hrs out of the fronts, and the same for a genuine front sprocket.
kyton
New member
Brake pads in. I had to take the caliper off to put them in. Not sure if they working fine, will only have bike running in a few weeks. When I left the front off the ground and try spin the well the pads are rubbing against the disc making the wheel feel tight. Not sure if the caliper is sticking.
Could it be from not being bedded in yet, maybe even too much fluid in the reservoir. Are the pads supposed to have heat shields fitted or not?
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Could it be from not being bedded in yet, maybe even too much fluid in the reservoir. Are the pads supposed to have heat shields fitted or not?
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desertgasser300
Banned
Was there a flat metal piece that goes between the back of the pad and the piston? If so, I believe you leave that part out if not using the OEM pads. The EBC's I used said to leave it out. You may want to have a look see.
gasser
New member
That should not be and the bike should not be ridden that way. What will happen if the pads continue to drag is heat will build up and transfer to the pads and brake fluid and the resulting expansion will cause the brakes to clamp tighter ultimately locking up the front wheel. Simple problem and easy fix if it's the master cylinder as I suspect. Sounds like the piston isn't coming out far enough to uncover the release hole that allows brake fluid to re-enter the master cylinder. There is an adjuster for this on your front brake lever.
kyton
New member
Taken caliper off, wheel seems to move freely. check the brake lever adjustment, seems fine. I checked the reservoir window. Looks like fluid is to the top pas the windows (maybe to much in.) I not that then maybe i must remove the steel heat shields. Not sure if the Goldfren Pads require them.
Also top piston not coming seems stuck today. Was fine yesterday. I seem to use a lot of force to push the pistons in. I can see the whole thing going to have to be stripped
Also top piston not coming seems stuck today. Was fine yesterday. I seem to use a lot of force to push the pistons in. I can see the whole thing going to have to be stripped
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cbutler
Member
I would start fresh. Take the caliper off the fork and pull the caliper off the bracket. Clean the pins LIGHTLY grease them. Take your pads out (leave the heat shield on if they came with them) pull the break lever to expose the piston let it come pretty far out but not all the way. Use a piece of Scotch bright and some break cleaner to clean the piston. before you push the piston back in loosen the bled screw to let out any extra fluid.Reassemble and see what you got you mite want to change all the fluid depending on what comes out of the caliper.
kyton
New member
How do you take the caliper apart to clean the pins. Pads out. Pulled the brake lever twice. Only the bottom piston came out. Do I need to take the master cylinder cap off as well for when pushing the piston in. As per heat shield the previous pads in there had them on, the new ones i purchased did not come with any.
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cbutler
Member
The caliper should just slide apart from the mounting bracket. If the pins are all crud-ed up from no maintenance it can be a little harder. Use some WD-40 at the rubber boots and jiggle the caliper and bracket as you slid them apart.
Here is a pretty good vid of the process but I wold not use the hammer, or the Vaseline just use a good water proof grease.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_J2Kb8_NTro
I would put a socket or C-clamp on the piston that is moving so all the pressure is going to the other piston. Here is one on rebuilding a caliper, but I would use the break lever to push out the top piston.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3W1K6Normn4
I would leave the cap on and just release the bleeder screw at the caliper for now. I get the feeling the fluid is going to be black if it is bleed the hole system.
Here is a pretty good vid of the process but I wold not use the hammer, or the Vaseline just use a good water proof grease.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_J2Kb8_NTro
I would put a socket or C-clamp on the piston that is moving so all the pressure is going to the other piston. Here is one on rebuilding a caliper, but I would use the break lever to push out the top piston.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3W1K6Normn4
I would leave the cap on and just release the bleeder screw at the caliper for now. I get the feeling the fluid is going to be black if it is bleed the hole system.
