Chance of seize during road riding?

Radbuster

Radbuster

Member
Hi guys,

I'm considering riding my EC300 also on dirt roads and was wondering about the cances of seizing. Have heard that the mixture supposedly becomes extremely lean under certain circumstances, but can't remember which.

It's jetted nicely with an LTR needle, 42PJ and an 180MJ. Fuel economy is good, plug looks dandy. Running 2% semi-synthetic and considering fully synthetic if it makes a difference.

What is important to keep in mind to avoid frying this fine motor?
 
Try not to use the same throttle opening for any length of time.

Vary the throttle position slightly over time. Especially if you are running Wide Open Throttle. Check your plug color after running at WOT for any longer lengths of time.

Remeber you can cold sieze the motor by running at faster speeds if the air temperature is to cold. Block one of the radiators off if you ride alot in the cold.

If you are going to do a lot of road riding reconsider your gearing. Stock is 13 : 48 and should be appropriate for 80 kmh +. 13:50 / 13:51 might not be.
 
Steve,

Thanks for your answer.

It would mostly be under 80kph and low loads, mostly just poking around, stock gearing which works really nice.

Another situation: after full acceleration through the gears, should the clutch be pulled in during braking so that the engine can idle down, thus avoiding engine braking with the slide closed back through the gears? Or, do some engine braking and blip the throttle every few seconds?

Any info is much appreciated.

Later, Fred
 
There is not really engine braking on the 2 stroke bike, that would be one of those 4 bangers. Are you talking about coming to a complete stop or just braking in general and also street or dirt?
 
Hi,

It would be on dirt roads or street coming down from maybe 120kmh to almost a complete stop.

What would the best technique be on a 2-t?

1. Closing the throttle, not disengaging, staying in 6th, using the brakes and the little available engine braking, or
2. Going back bown through the gears 6-5-4 etc., blipping the throttle between gears, or
3. Disengaging the clutch, letting the engine come down to idle?

Ideas?
 
What is with this KMH crap. you would think the rest of the world is metric or something!!! haha. Well I try to use a good mix of brake and downshifting through the gears when slowly down with as little clutching as possible. Also when brake down hill if you use a steady low to mid throttle with rear and front braking you can stop with much more control than if clutch and braking. Seems to just lock up when I try to brake with the clutch in but if I gas it a little when braking it keeps the bike from stalling and feels very controlled.
Good Luck with it! - Josh
 
Radbuster said:
It would be on dirt roads or street coming down from maybe 120kmh to almost a complete stop.

What would the best technique be on a 2-t?

1. Closing the throttle, not disengaging, staying in 6th, using the brakes and the little available engine braking, or
Click to expand...
Be CAREFUL with this one. With high RPM and the slide closed, your 2t engine can't get enough fuel (lubrication) and can seize.
 
I have made it a habit that when I am going down a hill to blip the throttle every so many seconds to keep the cylinder lubricated.
 
Radbuster said:
Hi,

It would be on dirt roads or street coming down from maybe 120kmh to almost a complete stop.

What would the best technique be on a 2-t?

1. Closing the throttle, not disengaging, staying in 6th, using the brakes and the little available engine braking, or
2. Going back bown through the gears 6-5-4 etc., blipping the throttle between gears, or
3. Disengaging the clutch, letting the engine come down to idle?

Ideas?
Click to expand...
Just hit the kill button and open the throttle about half for a few seconds when slowing down.
 
My first long ride on my 300 was with stock jetting and had a lot of 80-100kph+ road riding in it. It survived fine with 50:1 synthetic but it was kinda hard to find a sweet spot at a steady speed where it would run clean without surging (the 2T ding, ding, dadda ding, ding accompanied by chain slap) or want more throttle as it was on the edge of coming on the pipe. My cleaner jetting (LTR needle) has largely fixed that, but on any 2T, its not wise to close the throttle for extended periods after WOT or even on real long downhills with no throttle for that matter. A little blip of throttle in those situations will make it live longer and give you a warm/fuzzy feeling that things are getting lubed.
 
Very good thread and thanks for the answers!

It must have been the WOT and closed throttle that must've lurked in the cobwebs.

Could be very informative for all the 4-t rider to know this, now that a lot of them are coming back :-)

So, no lube at closed throttle, blip it regularly, no WOT for extended periods, block off radiators if high speeds in winter.

I love this bike.

And this site! The quality of the discussions is really good.
 
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