Clutch Basket Crossover

[eff]

My clutch basket broke last weekend. I currently have a line on a used basket, but also want to look at all my options. Stock baskets are expensive and none in the US as far as I can tell.

Has anyone ever used a CR250 basket? I have heard rumors that they may work and was wondering if it was ture.

Thnks,

Ed

 

[Cruiser]

I would also like to know,, my 97 gg has some time on it and the knotches are worn deep...

 

[Hamish]

off topic a little here, but does anyone know what other clutch plates (steels and fibres) will fit a 09 EC300R? Assume the R and std models have the same clutch

 

[stainlesscycle]

cr250 fibers will fit, but they are thicker than stock ones by at least .1 mm each.. i've not had a chance to get a set and mix and match and see if stack height is manageable..

 

[Hamish]

thanks for that, apparantly the cr250 steels fit, have a set of them on the way so will post up when I know the answer

 

[stainlesscycle]

if you can make cr250 steels and fibers work together and end up with a manageable stack height, that would be awesome.

 

[mxdj2003]

81 cr450 fibers are the same thickness, so are cb650 fibers

 

[Hamish]

cr250 steels also fit, but need aftermarket ones as stock ones are ally

 

[stainlesscycle]

i ordered a cr250 clutch kit - plates and steels - we'll see how it goes.

 

[Rick]

I replaced my fiber and steel plates 2 years ago. I ordered a Barnet kit from Go.Fasters...seems to be working just fine. The basket looked really good for it's age...

 

[stainlesscycle]

ok, as suspected. you cannot use cr250r fibers, they will fit, but are too thick.. brand new they measure 2.97mm thick. - the gas gas ones measure 2.75-2.85mm thick.

the cr250r steels are identical in dimension to stock gasgas plates. so if you want new steel plates, the cr250r ones are cheaper - i bought an entire clutch pack (steels and frictions) brand new for $44.99 brand new from rocky mountain atv..


you could feasibly use some
cr250r frictions in your clutch stack, but stack height is critical in gasgas. too tall of a stack and you hit the clutch cover/get spring bind, and clutch will drag... too short of a stack and it'll slip badly.


here's what i found:
if you load your basket with new cr250r steels and frictions the stack height will not clear the outer clutch cover and the clutch springs bind. you'd need either a smaller diameter spring wire or a different spring wind,you'd also need multiple cover gaskets or 1 thick gasket (rekluse sells a thick gasket for gasgas)

if anyone needs some never used cr250r friction plates, i'll let em go cheap.

 

[Adrian]

I have trimmed the hub and pressure plate before and used 1.4 mm steels to make roam for the 3mm thick honda plates. The GG plates are 2.8mm. there is some older hondas that use a 2.7mm plate. The 2.7mm honda plate is what most the aftermarket fibers are for the GG. The 2.7mm fibers have a larger ID. I have had a hard time keeping any of the 2.7mm from breaking. To make the 3mm plate work you can also use a thinner spacer behind the inner clutch hub. I have had great luck with the 3mm honda plates. In the past I have had terrible problems with the fiber plates breaking. I talked with another AA rider an he had the problem so bad he switched brands. Now that I have made a discovery I have not broke a plate in over one season.

 

[stainlesscycle]

thinner spacer behind inner clutch hub sounds like the easiest way - but would you also need to trim the pressure plate down? (i have not investigated what part of pressure plate hits the outer clutch cover)

 

[Adrian]

There is more room behind the basket than you would think. I believe the gasgas thrush washer is around 3mm I think the one I used is 1.5mm out of a Kawasaki. The one I use the thinner spacer on I only cleaned up the pressure plate surface. It was worn pretty bad. If you are breaking plates which will break a basket. I found that having the inner hub where the steels ride shot penned cure my breakage problems. I found this out buy using steels that were tighter on the inner hub. The problem got way worse. I put a factory set up together ran it hard until the clutch started to behave different. I then tried to remove the fibers and the steels. I could not get the last half of the clutch out. The hub had expanded and were barclamping the steels. The clutches came right out when I let it cool. I machined more clearance on a hub that was notched and no more broken plates. I then started having them shot penned, because its easier and it strengthens the hub.