clutch squeel

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Snow? In TN its gone in a day or so anyway, right? I've been to Knoxville on business, in fact I may have to go this summer. If so I'm thinking of driving from NJ with my bike in the truck, and avoiding the nude pics and fondling at the airport.

Awesome trails in the north end of Coal Creek OHV park (google it) less than an hour up I75 from Knoxville. The best trails aren't marked but if you'll let me know ahead of time I'll ride with you or set you up with a guide. KEN 931-498-5113
 
Back on topic. Just had my clutch out and apart for inspection. @ 133 hrs its perfect, everything. No notches at all, anodizing still good. I have the old style basket, but my inner hub has more holes drilled than what is shown here. 3 by each spring post for 18 total. First plates seemed like they had adequate oil. One less thing to worry about.
 
Back on topic. Just had my clutch out and apart for inspection. @ 133 hrs its perfect, everything. No notches at all, anodizing still good. I have the old style basket, but my inner hub has more holes drilled than what is shown here. 3 by each spring post for 18 total. First plates seemed like they had adequate oil. One less thing to worry about.

Hey GMP,

What do you think about drilling a 1/4" angled hole into the casting on the old style basket, so as it spins in the oil bath it'll scoop up oil and feed the inner plates.
 
If your talking about the basket I'm not so sure that will be effective. Think about it, the spinning clutch is like a centrifuge and wants to force oil from the inside out. Whatever oil you pick up at the bottom of the case would be spun off through the rest of the rotation. On a lot of 4 strokes the last place for the oil to go before the trans/sump is through the clutch from the inside out via the mainshaft/pushrod. I also noticed the pressure plate has holes by every spring to allow oil to get to the inner clutch. I would focus on a pressure plate design that is more efficient at trapping splash oil and directing it to the inner clutch. This should be relatvely easy to do in a new casting. I designed a small medical centrifuge that required air cooling of the rotor and samples contained, so I have a handle on the flow dynamics.
 
clutch squeal

Finally today I started removing the primary gear from the OEM gg basket by drilling out the machine rivets. All went very well took maybe 10 minutes. Now the difficult part begins. You wouldn't believe how difficult it is to place those rubber cushions back into the holes in the primary gear and then over the nubbs on the back of the barnett basket. Reminds me of changing a first tire by your self for the first time with a set of screw drivers.
 
Finally today I started removing the primary gear from the OEM gg basket by drilling out the machine rivets. All went very well took maybe 10 minutes. Now the difficult part begins. You wouldn't believe how difficult it is to place those rubber cushions back into the holes in the primary gear and then over the nubbs on the back of the barnett basket. Reminds me of changing a first tire by your self for the first time with a set of screw drivers.

I think their directional as well...Be interesting to see how the new basket works.
I think your the first one to post about using the Barnett basket on a GG...mabye the first to use one period.
 
clutch squeal

I have gotten all the rubber cushions in place and the ring gear bolted to the barnett basket. Every thing went together and lined up perfectly. The cushions are directional but tough to get pushed into place. Hopefully. I will get to take it out this week end and report back if this solves the problem
 
Think about it, the spinning clutch is like a centrifuge and wants to force oil from the inside out.

Most of the oil that gets to the clutch is through the clutch spring opening. Some well placed scoops at the clutch spring openings will prove some additional lubing.
 
Girard thats one thing I was thinking. Due to the lack of clearance with the cover, you can't really add anything. A new pressure plate design with depressions on the leading edge of the spring holes, and some shallow webbing on the sides is one option. Another would be a more open center, as this is the natural flow path. Think impeller or squirrel cage blower.
 
clutch squeal

Well everything is back together and oil is in the bike. The plan is to ride it this weekend for the test to see if she still squeals like a banchee. As I placed the new basket onto the primary drive I noticed there is not a lot of clearance between the basket and the inner case of the bike. The barnett has a ring machined on the center of the outer basket. One other interesting thing I observed between the OEM basket and barnett is the center hole in the barnett is about a 1/4 inch larger than the OEM. Hopefully this might improve oil flow to the inner basket
 
clutch squeal

just a note on the clutch noise.My 06 300 has over 50 hard races on it plus all the extra abuse in between.My clutch has made a racket since day one.Have taken it apart 3 or 4 times and it looks fine.I am really hard on clutches,took two out of my 01 KTM 300 in one season. The gasgas clutch is super strong.

I run Amzoil super shift,900 cc"s and change it after every race.It works just fine,have learned to live with the noise.What bothers me is the power valve rattle.Any fixes out there?

dave
2006 gasgas 300
2008 husaberg 550:
 
Dave, pull the right side cover and pretension the powervalve actuater a little. There should be a thread on it somewhere on here.
 
I run Amzoil super shift,900 cc"s and change it after every race.It works just fine,have learned to live with the noise.What bothers me is the power valve rattle.Any fixes out there?

dave
2006 gasgas 300
2008 husaberg 550:

I also remember a thread about clutch rattle that was the inner/outer clutch hub being loose from one another. Replaced the rivets with bolts if I remember correctly
 
I also remember a thread about clutch rattle that was the inner/outer clutch hub being loose from one another. Replaced the rivets with bolts if I remember correctly

i had this rattle, replaced rivets with bolts and nuts but allso replaced the rubbers inside the clutch hub.
 
clutch squeal

I went one step further today and placed the inner basket with a manual rekluse. We riding tomorrow I will let all know the outcome
 
No more squeal!!!!!!

All squeal is gone. I even tried to get the clutch to squeal but it was as quiet as a church mouse. To sum it all up I replaced the OEM inner and outer clutch basket with a barnett Billet outer and a rekluse manual Billet inner. Aimsoil 10w-40 oil
 
So did you buy the parts new to try this out or did you have them from another bike? Just wondering in case we do the same thing if we will be able to purchase the parts without any problems. Hey thanks for your work and your posting on this it much appreciated. I have been reading about this for a whiile now and it's nice to know there is a solution.
 
no squeal

Unfortunately I had to purchase the parts and they were expensive. I believe we will hear alot more about this subject in the future because more and more riders are changing over to gg therefore more ears will begin to question these different noises that they are used to hearing. I was at an enduro Sunday that had some tight twisty single track and the chatter around the pit area was about this annoying sound from the clutch. There is another thread just started yesterday after he rode his new bike at the race questioning this phenomenon. I believe it should be addressed @ the factory in spain
 
I reckon I heard it for the first ttime today and yesterday.
I have an 07 and was riding in sand and generally in 2nd or 3rd gear.
In the deeper sand when trying to start moving again it began a groan or squeel.
This was when the motor and clutch were under heavy load and stopped as soon as riding was not under heavy load.
Cheers Mark
 
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