Coolant exiting from spark plug hole and between cylinder and engine block

[Mikeyx]

I have been struggling with a weak spark issue: http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25181

Now that I finally have a new stator installed, I noticed that - while using the kick start (no plug installed) - coolant comes out of the spark plug hole as well as between the cylinder and engine block.

Is this a 'fatal' damage? I mean while lacking the tools & know-how, would it make any sense to have the engine repaired?

 

[swazi_matt]

I have been struggling with a weak spark issue: http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25181

Now that I finally have a new stator installed, I noticed that - while using the kick start (no plug installed) - coolant comes out of the spark plug hole as well as between the cylinder and engine block.

Is this a 'fatal' damage? I mean while lacking the tools & know-how, would it make any sense to have the engine repaired?

it will definitely make it hard to start lol

possibly not a difficult fix if it is just base gaskets and head o-rings. but before that make sure that the bolts are actually tight and that the coolant isn't moisture sitting in the crank from a drowning

if it isn't the bolts then when you remove the cylinder to replace gasket try to check that the bottom end bearing hasn't had a chance to rust from moisture in the engine

but you do need to get it fixed, if you loose all coolant (will happen faster as the bike warms and builds pressure in the coolant system) you will really damage your bike

 

[(F5)]

The water outlet from the head (haven't seen late model bikes) is right by the spark plug. That join can be leaky but easy fix.

 

[Jakobi]

Like Matt said.

If the bike is physically blowing coolant out the spark plug hole, is it a lot? or just a bit?

I'd be pulling the crank case drain bolt out of the bottom of the engine and seeing if any coolant/water comes out as a matter of priority.

Sounds like it could be the base gasket from your description.

 

[Mikeyx]

When using the kick-start, coolant actually squirts from the right-hand-side seam between the cylinder and block. Based on its red color, it is definitely coolant and not water. At least the accessible bolt is tight.

Out of the spark plug hole, the quantity is such that while holding the plug on the head to check the spark, my hand becomes wet. So, quite a lot...

When viewing through the oil inspection hole, oil level is unchanged and color is dark and not milky. So I'd guess that the coolant has not seeped through the crankshaft seals.

Anyway, I will have to remove the cylinder. How much (and how) do I have to disassemble the power valve mechanism? That thingy is something I've never ever touched before.... Does it require more than just disengaging the lever coming up from the clutch side casing?

 

[hannesd]

post us a vid or pic, that will help you a long way in determining if this is serious or less

 

[Doc Brown]

I reckon its the head gasket, if so, removing the cylinder is not necessary...

 

[Mikeyx]

^The coolant escapes between the cylinder and the block.

 

[(F5)]

What year is it? The old ones are easy as long as you melt the unlock nut with a gas torch or something so it comes off without damaging the triangle like plate on upper. Top pv is easy and should be cleaned with oven cleaner when you have it apart.

Read the forum guides from home page, easy as.

 

[Jakobi]

What I find interesting is..

The gasket will need to be blown through both sides to have coolant in the jug, and leaking outside the jug..

There is a crankcase bolt in the bottom of the cases (not the transmission drain). Pull it out and see if you have coolant in the crank case.

Next you'll have to pull the cylinder and check for wear or damage. And measure the base gasket.. Is it one of those 0.1mm ones?

Usually if they leak, it's at the front or rear where the cases meet eachother. I'm wondering why a gasket would fail both internally and externally.

 

[Mikeyx]

Thanks - I'll locate the drain plug and remove it. However, I cannot find it in the parts diagram...

The PV lever was easy to disengage just by gently prying it. Possibly the 'bolt' is just so worn out (2009, EC300).

Could the cylinder be warped? I have had repetitive problems with the engine mounting bolts becoming loose. The last thing before this problem occurred was to overtighten all the bolts with hard-lock paste.

 

[(F5)]

Check the threads on engine bolts. My bottom one was worn so bad the threads were not a very good fit. It is 120mm 10mm bolt from memory. Wrecker found me a replacement from his bucket of random engine bolts. .

 

[Mikeyx]

The crankcase was full of coolant up to the cylinder gasket level. Drained it.

Any pointers how to remove the bolt/nut combo from the PV lever? It does not fit through the opening, and hence I cannot remove the cylinder.

Behind the lever, there is a thin round washer stuck on the bolt. Cannot undo it as it rotates with the bolt. Cannot pry it off, either. And the combo is not shown in any parts diagram images...

EDIT: Behind the lever, there is a flange and not a washer. Even with heating up the locking nut, it would not come off as there was no chance to counterhold the threaded part from rotating.

 

[Mikeyx]

And here's how the tiny part looks like. I wonder where I can get a new one...

 

[(F5)]

So that's the triangle plate I talked of. Get someone to weld it back on to the plate and grind excess.

 

[Mikeyx]

Let's take a look at the pic.

The small notch in the left goes into a 3 mm hole in the triangle plate. The unthreaded section (between the flange and thread) goes inside the loop in the lever. There is also a washer between the loop and retaining nut - these are visible in the earlier pic.

So if we look at the earlier photo, the parts go in the following order: locking nut/washer/lever loop/flange/triangle plate

 

[Jakobi]

Well well well. Not good news for the bottom end bearings that have been soaking in coolant.

 

[Doc Brown]

Well well well. Not good news for the bottom end bearings that have been soaking in coolant.

If the crank case was full up to the cylinder sealing surface it is not a problem. As long as the bearings were submerged no air was there. No air, no corrosion.

Now that the crank case has been drained it is time to worry. I'd say to fill the crank case with a light oil would help, right?

 

[Jacob 'Berg]

If the crank case was full up to the cylinder sealing surface it is not a problem. As long as the bearings were submerged no air was there. No air, no corrosion.

Now that the crank case has been drained it is time to worry. I'd say to fill the crank case with a light oil would help, right?

I would flush with diesel fuel and then atf.

There is water in the coolant, and water contains oxygen, so that is all that is needed for corrosion of ferrous metals..

If you notice any abnormal vibration or noise from the motor after buttoning it back up, I would split the cases and replace the main bearings.

 

[Mikeyx]

I asked for an opinion from a local dirt bike service workshop (the owner is also a semi-pro rider). He said that there should not be an issue with the bearings.

I have flushed the crankcase with 2-stroke gasoline and then, having tightened the drain plug, poured some more gasoline in there.

I guess that there are no hygroskopic material used in the bearings (in an automotive auto transmission, the friction plates do absorb water and swell). Coolant is known to include anticorrosive agents. So I'll get new cylinder seals and try to get it up and running.

If there are issues then, I'll put the bike in pieces and sell the parts. Repair would just cost too much...the workshop quoted 5hrs for the job.