DC conversion - not floating ground

I can't find a free place to upload that .pdf I made of how I did this conversion that doesn't mess up the images (google drive really ruined the pictures). Just pm or email me and I will send it if you are interested in seeing it.

Edit: I have loaded this on dropbox. It should work. I've a bunch of people ask to see it so I thought maybe this would be easier. I am not claiming it's perfect or the greatest thing ever. But if it can help anybody I am happy to share it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e93rvdmgxxkitbb/EC250 DualSport Procedure.pdf

Nice bike,great write up, thanks for posting!
 
Nice bike,great write up, thanks for posting!

Thanks. It's been a year and the bike is still working great. I did ruin that battery because I let it go completely dead over winter and it wouldn't charge back up but that was my fault haha.
 
I lost a battery the same way this past winter. It was on the old lady's honda reflex and I just forgot about it, lol, oh well no big deal.
 
I don't have a white wire coming out of the stator on my 2005 EC 250. Do I need to rewind the stator to be able to wire in a DC reg/rectifier? I have the yellow, green, red, red/white, and black/red wires coming from my stator. It has a small 12v AC regulator mounted near the ignition coil as well. It is an American market bike as far as I can tell.
 
I can't find a free place to upload that .pdf I made of how I did this conversion that doesn't mess up the images (google drive really ruined the pictures). Just pm or email me and I will send it if you are interested in seeing it.

Edit: I have loaded this on dropbox. It should work. I've a bunch of people ask to see it so I thought maybe this would be easier. I am not claiming it's perfect or the greatest thing ever. But if it can help anybody I am happy to share it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e93rvdmgxxkitbb/EC250 DualSport Procedure.pdf

Just curious, is it still possible to use the red/yellow wire for delayed shut off with this setup?
 
ive put an e start on my old gasgas. How do avoid a frame earth when the starter motor is bolted to the engine. That is the earth!

I just need a small charging circuit, not bothered about lights ect
 
As you have noticed, the starter motor uses a frame ground. Since you have an aftermarket FULLWAVE rectifier, you need to float the ground at the stator. This means that the stator frame ground has to be removed from the stator plate and connected to a new wire. So the rectifier input gets powered by the white wire and your new wire. This isolates the stator.

The rectifier output goes to the battery positive and battery negative. Battery negative is connected to frame ground so the starter motor functions. Keep in mind that your battery positive wiring to your switch gear should be fused for safety. Connect everything to DC so it is easier to understand the wiring.
 
For adding estart you should only need a simple hookup like this diagram:
 

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I have attemped the original method that is in this thread but I am having an issue. THe power fluctuates horribly to the battery...fluttering lights, etc...Anyone else experience this?
 
Just re-re-re-re-read the first post and noticed (for the first time...duh) about the switch housing ground....I will check that after work and hopefully sorts out my issue...
 
I'd guess that you have both your AC and DC grounded somehow. When I look at the wiring diagram from the original document (figure 22) it shows the AC going into the Reg./Rect. as connected between stator white and chassis ground. So far so good since the instructions indicate this is intended to be a DC conversion WITHOUT floating the stator ground.

In order to be successful the RR output must not be grounded. Note that the diagram shows battery minus and "ground with bullet". This is meant to indicate that battery minus is the isolated ground point for the lighting. IT DOES NOT GET CONNECTED TO CHASSIS/FRAME GROUND. Check to see if your battery minus is grounded. If so remove that ground and see if it works.
 
Does anybody have a picture of the ground being floated? I'm in the process of installing a dual sport kit on my son's 02 200 EC. My ignition experience is limited to SEM and Motoplat and Powerdynamo ignitions which already have a floated grounds. I did float the ground on my 83 XR500 decades ago but really don't want to have to do it that way on my son's bike.
 
Never mind. I seen the vid on how to do it and it's just like what I had to do on my 83 XR500R. I guess it's going to be isolate the DC ground.
 
2108 300EC LED Headlight?

Hi - I'm new to the thread and GasGas. I noticed that this conversation is quite dated, and I see no reference to more recent GasGas models.

I am interested to know if anyone out there has run an LED headlight, in place of the standard halogen lamp? I'm assuming that the 2018 EC uses an AC voltage to run the headlamp, so all "I think" I need is a rectifier and regulator to run an LED headlamp. The bike isn't plated, and I don't ride it on the road, so I only need a low beam and on / off. Any advice appreciated.
 
Don't assume that the 2018 XC uses AC for the headlamp. Go to gasgas.com and download the manual for your bike. Page 17 has the wiring diagram that shows the stator connected to the regulator (rectifier).

The "generador" connector shows AC output from the stator. There is no detail on the stator itself. AC power from the stator does not appear to go anywhere other than the regulator/rectifier.

The only thing we can tell is that battery minus is grounded and the starter motor is grounded. Also the yellow/green from the regulator/rectifier is grounded. The red wire from the rectifier is connected at various places on the bike.

Ro which is red appears to connect to the common terminal of the headlight switch. Thus the headlight may be DC powered. Have fun following the diagram to see if you reach the same conclusion.

Don't trust the diagram to be true unless you can measure DC voltage at the headlight.
 
My 15 model has DC headlight. And I use a LED lamp in winter. I presume all newer bikes also use DC for all lights.
 
Hello all,

I am about to try the AC to DC conversion on my 2011, based on the instructions of Mike Cooper.
I would like to ask you if any of you ever had any problem with overcharging the NiMH battery pack, as it is the thing that worries me the most.
On the other hand, I do not think building a charging module would be appropriate on a dirt bike, given the amount of stress (vibrations, moisture and so on) it would suffer.

Any suggestion would be appreciated!
 
My Traltech Voyager shows battery voltage on one of the screens. It tends to fluctuate from 14.0 to 14.8 volts DC. No trouble with the 220CCA Lithium ion battery that has been on the bike for 9 years now.

If you are worried about charging, just run with your headlight always on to pull down the voltage a bit.
 
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