dry or wet air filter

300ec

New member
I'm sorry if my question is repeated - could not find an answer in search
in the manual indicates the type of filter - dry.
is it possible to use a foam filter without oil?
select a theme which was discussed this issue please
 
Say what?? The air filter should be dry before running the bike. But always oiled.

IE.
Don't wash, oil, then ride.
Wash the filter, dry the filter, oil the filter, let the oil dry (tacky), and then ride.
 
I thought that the "dry filter" - the filter is completely oil-free
rich mixture in my engine - perhaps because of the large amount of oil on the filter
thank you
 
NEVER run a foam filter dry! Only the large particles will be caught and the rest will go through. You'll be doing a rebuild in a short time if you do. Clean and oil properly, squeezing (not twisting and wringing) the foam to remove the excess oil). If this is done and its running rich its jetter rich, its not the filter.
 
Another little tip is to purchase a second air filter and get yourself a couple of the larger plastic zip freezer bags. Once your filter has been oiled put it into the bag and it's ready to go for you next change out. Plus any excess oil will accumulate in the bag not in your air box.:D
 
Dry the filter with an old hair dryer after oiling and before install to evaporate the carrier faster. This works especially well with No-Toil as it goes on a bit thinner. It will eliminate pooling in the foam.
 
Nods! Good tips all round! Definite +1 about never running an un oiled filter. If its been over oiled it may affect jetting but you'll also notice it pooling up in the air box. Like GMP said. Add a little oil and massage it in, add a little more until you have enough. If you have too much squeeze some back out. Never twist or wring as it'll tear the foam. I like to dry mine by squeezing it with a dry clean towel to get the last of the water out prior to oiling.
 
Just cleaned 3 filters today. After soaking them with cleaner, then rinsing I held them in the sun outta the shade for a quick flash dry!!!! Gotta love those triple digit temps......:D Any longer then a few seconds I woulda burned the foam. J/K
 
I oil my filter while it is still damp, as I find it easier to get the oil on evenly. And i always error on the side on to much oil. I have had it choke up during a race, but others were rebuilding their bikes at the end of that race.
 
At one time I thought GG was working on a cartridge type filter, which was dry. It was a brilliant idea which never quite got worked out. I wish they would perfect it for quick filter changes. Ad it is, a bike with electric start takes nearly as long to swap an air filter as it does to do a tire change.
 
Another little tip is to purchase a second air filter and get yourself a couple of the larger plastic zip freezer bags. Once your filter has been oiled put it into the bag and it's ready to go for you next change out. Plus any excess oil will accumulate in the bag not in your air box.:D

+1

I have 1 stock and 1 Uni Filter air filter for my bike and use the Uni brand cleaner/oil for them. The stock filter is white in color and never seemed to get truly white after using plenty of cleaner and rinsing in cool water thoroughly. So I tried squirting a bit of plain old dish washing liquid ("organic" product w/o fragrance or dyes) onto the filter after the Uni cleaner was rinsed off, agitated the filter causing a lot of foam, and was shocked at the amount of dust and dirty water came out of the filter after using the Uni cleaner, per instructions. Now, I always do a 2 step wash... first with Uni cleaner, then with my dish soap. Definitely seems to clean better. I have not noticed any detrimental affect to the glues or multilayer Uni filter.

After I use all my Uni cleaner and oil I'm switching to NoToil filters and their oil/cleaner. Definitely don't like standing over the sink huffing Uni cleaner 2-3 times a week as I rinse. Have read NoToil is as good (or better) quality filter and the oil and cleaner are biodegradable and presumably better to inhale and handle.
 
The filter skin is fine BUT you still have to oil the filter. The filter skin is not catching the fine dust particles. That is what the oil does as the fine dirt passes through the filter it sticks to the oil. Without oil the dust can just pass right through filter.


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The filter skin is fine BUT you still have to oil the filter. The filter skin is not catching the fine dust particles. That is what the oil does as the fine dirt passes through the filter it sticks to the oil. Without oil the dust can just pass right through filter.


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Definitely your are right. I am also oiling filter but skin is helpful for cleaning :)
 
One thing you want to remember if you are running the filter skins. Just because your filter looks clean doesn't mean its good to go. Over a period of time the oil gets sucked out of your filter or settles to the bottom of your filter. So just because your filter looks nice and clean after several rides doesn't mean that it is good for riding.
I raced an enduro down in Nebraska one time. The conditions were awesome. A light mist in the air and no dust at all. The next weekend I raced a hare scramble in Colorado. I didn't touch my air filter because it hadn't got dirty at all from the previous race. The Colorado race was dry and dusty and about 1 1/2 hrs. into the race I blew up my motor. Pulled it apart the next morning and the carb and motor was just packed with a fine gritty silt. So just because your filter looks good doesn't mean it has enough oil on it.
 
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