Ec 300 2008

5

5valve

Member
Got this used bike, not in perfect shape, but starts first kick hot or cold.
When I roll it on straights, no problems, valve opens, power acceptable (huge)
Low and mid speed grunt is acceptable. I'm just used to 4 strokes, so now I occasionally dig in.
MJ:168
PJ: 40 (replaced 42)
stock needle N1EF #3
Air: 1.5 - 2.5 (2.5 kicks in power quite sooner)
Series 1 carb
No mods (maybe sth wil surface, when I start digging into engine, which i love doing)
13:52 gears, will go to 51.
1:50 sint offroad premix
95 fuel, fresh mix every ride
Power valve inspected, cleaned to the bone.
Issues are:
Idling is sometimes high, sometimes just about to sign off, but it doesn't. I think it is minor bike lean angle sensitive.
Steep slippery full throtthle uphills, tested 2nd, 3rd gear, sun, rain mode, bike cant rev out. It is close, but seems like hitting rpm limiter. Its just that small amount of less wheel spin, so you cant reach the top. 3 rd gear got me higher, due to more speed, but feeling of not enough speen was again there.

When surface is flat, bike revs and overrevs normally and hugely.

Is it all about the float level being too high? (for starters?)
 
I'm UK based so may differ from country to country

03 ec3
Mj 178
Sj 38
Needle ktm n3eg. Off the top of my head
As 1.5 turns

Bike runs great removed the old needle as it use to burble low down or in woods and technical stuff and was fine when road riding or mx tracks.
The standard needle is rich down low I was going to down size the Sj to a 35 until I was told about the n3eg

You seem lean on the main jet to. Not a expert lol just bits I've picked up from the forum
 
Do you ride steep slippery treacherous terran, with lots of hidden in grass fallen tree trunks? If 13 48 is ok for this, will rather switch to 50 rear and blame jetting for engine not so user friendly torque spread - responsiveness. MJ 168 is stock an by the plug colour, not lean. It just might be good for stock needle, but needle not being ok overall. Presume if i replace needle, would also need bigger MJ.
 
I ride all sorts of stuff mx tracks enduro tracks or green lanes.
this is my personal set up and everyone will differ and as jetting is depending on country but everyone says to get the standard needle and throw it in the bin, I put the ktm one in and it sorted out a lot of issues and I kept my jetting as it was .
 
Needle does not affect main jet. 168 May not be too lean if it is a 36mm carb. First thing you need to do is toss the n1ef needle in a ditch somewhere far away from your home and get a nedw needle. And you need to get your float level set properly. There is a thread somewhere on here that has the proper measurements


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memphis2857 said:
Needle does not affect main jet. 168 May not be too lean if it is a 36mm carb. First thing you need to do is toss the n1ef needle in a ditch somewhere far away from your home and get a nedw needle. And you need to get your float level set properly. There is a thread somewhere on here that has the proper measurements


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Click to expand...

NEDW is too lean for airstriker I. Trust me, I know from first hand experience. Try CCK or one leaner, which is CEK, I believe.
 
And the needle does cross over with the main.

Hold the N1EF vs an N3Ex and look at the tip. Even to the naked eye you can see that the suzuki needle thins out a bucketload more (providing additional fuel). Generally, the dial taper KTM/Yamaha needles need around 2 sizes richer on the main.

The 38mm AS1 requires richer jetting than what you'll read on the new models with AS2 carbs. Most noticably off idle, but it is across the board. I'd expect something like 38/40 N3EG#3 178 to be on the money for you.

13/50 gearing should work a treat for that terrain and keep you in 2nd a bit more of the time.
 
gassergrant, its Slovenia, just outside capital. "small" patch of forrest, hills, creeks, fire roads, about 30s from my house.

So Jakobi's advice is to use N3EG combo, practically identical to gassergant 's.
Is this jetting combo N3EG#3, 38-40, 178 tempeture sensitive for winter/summer jets changes being a must, or just finetuning of air screw and maybe needle height is enough to compensate?
Riding temeratures range from 23F to 95F, mostly being in 50/77 range. Never extremely humid.


I do have in grasp KTM needles, N84K, N2ZK, N2ZW and N2ZL, but being "2", I presume are not OK.
Jets i have enough, to test.

CCK and CEK are keihin brand needles, do they correlate to any OEM?

I dont have JD spreadsheet.
 
N2ZW is the same taper profile as the N3EW but richer clip for clip. Would have to check notes to confirm if its 1 clip pos, or 1.5 clips..

But for your model carb you really need a G diameter. The Suzuki needles will work too, but you'd need G/F diameters.

N3EG middle clip gives you a fair amount of adjustment up/down depending on your requirements. Obviously the recommendation is just a starting point. The testing has to be done by the rider and the bike, in its home conditions.
 
OK, will do, ang go further, if needed. Just want the idle screw not to be almost bottomed out and fix the idle hi/low, by float adjustment in 14-16mm range, or by using the parallel approach and measure it afterwards.
 
I have the same carb and am running at a similar elevation, so I thought I would post my set up for you. Jetting is spot on for winter riding here in AZ with ambient temps 50-75 degrees F. I will move the needle to position #2 and drop the pilot to a 35 when it warms up for summer.

AS I
Needle: CEK, clip position #3
Pilot: 38
Main: 175
Air Screw: 1-1.5 turns out depending on temp

I hope this helps. The CEK works well for me as I have plenty of adjustment for temp and elevation.
 
Delving into engine, replacing seals, to ensure no airleaks are occuring, bumped into problem.

First went for the clutch removal, and found the basket nut to be hand unscrewable, and the washers two inner legs were tad bent upward. Still complete loosening could not occur, due to the leggies hiting other obstacles.
Some time in the past it was probably torqued as per the manual, not by those increased values, found in tech articles.

To reach main shaft's seal, RHD cover must be removed. Can't do it in any way. It is hooked to sth at water pump area.
I do get some clearance and can make some leverage, but forcing seems to eat up the gasket area.
What is holding it? Manual says just remove all bolts. 5 on the clutch cover, 6 more around, and pull the cover. No way.
 

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The dowels are seized. meaning it will take a while. use some oil on the two dowels and tap w/ a rubber hammer. best of luck.
 
Thanks, just managed. YT video helped to pinpoint dowel location, so hitting at correct spot just below waterways made it come out.
True, seized dowel, but why? because bolt hole comes out on the inner case side, so water can come in.
Will need to rethink sealing that area.
 
Overhauled bike completely. New seals, retoequed bolts to correct spec. Wow, it is a noiseless engine.

While waiting for carb parts, went for a snowy ride, 20k's, mostly low to mid rpm, occasional short burst full throtthle.

N1EF #2
mj 168
pj 40
2 turns air.
It is much better than #3. Much less hickup when transiting to valve, and after clearing, it took longer to clog up again.
After ride, made a few full power passes and then 1mi slow ride home.
Pulled the spark, seems a tad lean. Its an old spark and was always black to wet black prior to that last ride. (have totaled only 4 rides)
 

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While waiting for jets'n needle, did a ride with:
N1EF #1
168
42
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0A43YNhKJ8&feature=youtu.be



Now, Jacob 'Bergs settings came in sooner, so today installed

CEK#3
175
38

Difference (quick test) is: more power everywhere, smoothed transition to valve, meaty torque.
Have yet to test it in real terrain.
On the other hand..its super LEAN, at least in hi rpm range.. So, Jacob, raising needle or giving a go to bigger main?
 
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