Ec300 JD jet kit help

[Quigs]

Looking for some help with Jetting my 2011 Ec300. 38mm ASII Carb, Running 50:1, 97/98ron unleaded.

I had the Jetting setup for the winter (around 0-7 degrees, sea level-1000ft)

38PJ
Blue Needle #3
170MJ
a/s 1.5out

Temps are starting to rise here now and Seems to be running a bit rich, plug is quite black)

I have a few Questions.
Current temp is around 10 degrees now

which needle should i go with? or just leave as is?

Any recommendations that i should start with?

Thanks for the help, just want to get it right as in an enduro event on the weekend.

Cheers

 

[cbutler]

I dont know where you are but you can call or email JD and they will tell you what to do. Excellent customer service and they know there shit.

 

[thumperflipper]

Both thumbs up on their tech support. PHENOMENAL. They actually sent me a third needle to compensate for my carburetor wear. I had the red needle (high altitude, the fattest of the two) buried. Running great with clip at top notch, but leaves me no adjustment. They told me the needle jet (the part the main jet screws in to) actually gets worn out from the jet needle going in and out and that in older/high hours carbs can make the bike run rich no matter how much you bury the needle. So they gave me 2 options: buy a new carb, or try an even leaner needle. Yes I took the needle. NO CHARGE for the needle or shipping. Showed up in three days. THAT is customer service.

 

[Quigs]

Thanks for the replies.

Im in the Uk so will drop them an email.

 

[JP4]

Try the red needle on the 4th clip. I believe that is the next step leaner than Blue 3, as recommended by JD.

 

[hamilton]

Try the red needle on the 4th clip. I believe that is the next step leaner than Blue 3, as recommended by JD.

Thought most 300's like the red needle. 4th maybe 3rd clip.
JD recommends a 180 main with those needles.
170 seems lean?

 

[Wimpy525]

I just installed a red needle on my 300 since I went to the house of hp exhaust. Was not a fan of it before but so far it's working ok. 175 main 45 pilot I belive I am on the 3rd clip also have a #8 slide.
I may try a 178 main.
I had an n3cj,175 main with stock pipe and Leo Vince silencer prior which worked well.

 

[webmaster]

Whenever I see a 38 pilot with a "good needle" - I think something is "off"... "it is pulling over..."

Pulling over is when you have your idle turned up too high (or have a crappy n1ef needle) and it starts to supply too much fuel from needle - this diverts away from pilot circuit and makes the circuits poorly separated.

Solution is

- richer pilot
- maybe drop needle a clip.
- back out idle screw
- don't worry if you have to turn up air screw to 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 for this carb.

This will "push" more of air and fuel flow to pilot circuit at idle & low rpm and give you more control on your air screw. It will make the carb less sensitive to environmental changes. Properly set up - you can follow the compensation tables in the manual to adjust for elevation, etc.

jeff

 

[Quigs]

Thanks for all the help.
I have changed the needle to red #4 clip, also swapped to a 40 pj. I will swap the main to a 180 aswell as per JD Recommendations.

I can see what your saying jeff, if the pilot circuit is correctly jetted the idle will need to be wound up so hight.
Am i right in saying that using the leaner diameter (red) neeedle is allowing you to use a bigger pilot jet.

So starting at these settings i should be able to jet correctly and get it running smooth?

Ryan

 

[mtnmanseth]

Thanks for this question, Quigs, as I'm experiencing the same issue with the same setup, except my bike is a 2005 with the older carb and I'm running the 180 main. I'm getting twice as much spooge now that the temps are warming up, which of course is richer jetting. But I wasn't sure whether to do what JP4 said and go to the red needle or drop my blue a single notch. My bike definitely seems to prefer the blue needle, and Jakobi confirmed that the older bikes prefer blue.

I'll try what Jeff said (drop blue needle) and back out airscrew a little. I am running a 42 pilot, which has made the bike idle MUCH better and don't think it's "pulling over". I'll report back...

EDIT: We were posting at the same time Quigs... let me know how red #4 feels vs. blue #3. Also considering whether the 42 pilot is too big now that temps are higher. Maybe majority of spooge and blubbering is from the pilot? Shall I go back to 40 during summer months?

 

[Quigs]

Mine would not idle nicely and would always cutout if i didnt blip the throttle every now and then.

I have the red in now and have tested it very quickly bit with the 38pj, was very responsive but seemed to top out very quick, that could be due to the 170mj so wull swap to a 180mj now.

Now that i have the 40pj in and a/s 1.75 out it idle better but still feels a little rich onpilot circuit.

My next task to try now is swap the mj to the 180 then take the bike for a ride.
will get it warmed up then set the a/s 1 turn out and back it out (lean it off) till throttle response is good.
will then raise the needle to #5 to make it rich from 1/4 -3/4 and raise clip to get a good response from 1/4 -3/4

 

[webmaster]

Thanks for this question, Quigs, as I'm experiencing the same issue with the same setup, except my bike is a 2005 with the older carb and I'm running the 180 main. I'm getting twice as much spooge now that the temps are warming up, which of course is richer jetting. But I wasn't sure whether to do what JP4 said and go to the red needle or drop my blue a single notch. My bike definitely seems to prefer the blue needle, and Jakobi confirmed that the older bikes prefer blue.

I'll try what Jeff said (drop blue needle) and back out airscrew a little. I am running a 42 pilot, which has made the bike idle MUCH better and don't think it's "pulling over". I'll report back...

EDIT: We were posting at the same time Quigs... let me know how red #4 feels vs. blue #3. Also considering whether the 42 pilot is too big now that temps are higher. Maybe majority of spooge and blubbering is from the pilot? Shall I go back to 40 during summer months?

Note that I said you should back out the "idle screw" - this drops the slide and needle down and makes the needle/nozzle/slide deliver less fuel at idle/low throttle settings. Given this - you add fuel (increase pilot size) and air through the pilot circuit - where it should be provided.

You also might back out the air screw as you increase the size of the pilot.... But both must be set correctly - and both interact with each other - e.g. if you imprudently crank the idle in - you will end up leaning out the air screw and the pilot jet - at this point you are "dorked" and saying to yourself - "I am at a 38 pilot, which is the leanest available, and how can I get a 35..." This is why the N1EF stock needle is so horrid - it leads you right into this hole.

jeff