engine will not rev after being driven on low revs

As mentioned you can swap and change oils til the cows come
home but unless you change your jetting your symptoms will remain.
Choose an oil based on price/smell/performance whatever then jet to suit.
 
Why is Saber bad my bike runs killer on it better than dominator???????
Chris I run Saber (at 75 to 1) in my 250 all the time and lug the motor a lot with no problems but I couldn't run it in my 300 without loading up. People who ride a lot faster than me (like yourself) may not have any problem but 300s are usually run easier than 200s or 250s so they generate less heat. Combine that with rich jetting which also make the engine cooler and you can load up your engine easily. Are you going to WUDI this year?
 
As mentioned you can swap and change oils til the cows come
home but unless you change your jetting your symptoms will remain.
Choose an oil based on price/smell/performance whatever then jet to suit.
Not necessarily, a number of things can and do affect an engine "loading up" because a number of things affect how hot an engine gets. Jetting is most important but other things are in play as well. Not everyone can properly jet a carb so why not change the easy stuff first to see if that will be enough to make the problem go away?
 
I'm going to take to the Q silencer with a hacksaw as soon as I find a reason to have it off the bike. Probably shock revalve time. I honestly think its the root of the spooge. The bike doesn't really smoke any more heavily than the 2010 model, but the spooge just keeps on coming.
 
I'm going to take to the Q silencer with a hacksaw as soon as I find a reason to have it off the bike. Probably shock revalve time. I honestly think its the root of the spooge. The bike doesn't really smoke any more heavily than the 2010 model, but the spooge just keeps on coming.


Do it, 5 minute job and your spooge issues will be over. I had a shorty on my bike when I first got it and a brand new Q stealth which I eventually put on. No spooge at all with the shorty (cut down Q, spooge trap spark arrestor removed), nice spooge lines down to the join of the pipes sometimes with the new Q. Since repacked the shorty and put that back on, no spooge again.
 
I honestly think its the root of the spooge. The bike doesn't really smoke any more heavily than the 2010 model, but the spooge just keeps on coming.

I agree with this. There is a severe flow reversal after the swirl bullet that forces the oil to separate out. I am considering cutting out most of the end cap tube to eliminate this. I think the swirl bullet could remain and not create much spooge. The end cap tube actually extends into the back of the swirl bullet.
 

Attachments

  • Stealth muffler insides.jpg
    Stealth muffler insides.jpg
    54.1 KB · Views: 37
Chris I run Saber (at 75 to 1) in my 250 all the time and lug the motor a lot with no problems but I couldn't run it in my 300 without loading up. People who ride a lot faster than me (like yourself) may not have any problem but 300s are usually run easier than 200s or 250s so they generate less heat. Combine that with rich jetting which also make the engine cooler and you can load up your engine easily. Are you going to WUDI this year?

No thinking about camping at Brock Creek.

I do wish they would have it somewhere else every now and then.
 
I have the 13' 250, I had a similar problem, tried jetting etc to no avail, in the end I had the bike put on a dyno, it's come back sweet & although it now ticks over a little high it's running right, they set up the carb, cleaned it thoroughly & found a problem with the reeds in the power valve.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Do you know where they ended up with the jetting? I had a little play with mine again yesterday and decided to switch to the Suzuki needles for the next round of testing. I still need to do some plug chops as well to establish whats going on with the main, but the weather hasn't been conductive to testing. I was thinking about taking the time to check the reeds just to be sure as well, and have all intention of double checking the PV setup as soon as I find a reason to remove the pipe.
 
Jakobi - what are you checking in the power valve? That its clean or something else?

Making sure there is a little preload on the flapper from the governor/actuating arm. Sometimes they get a little slop and don't hold the PV flapper down completely at low rpm.

I'll probably check the spring and number of shims in the governor as well.
 
Back
Top