Gas Gas ec 2006 1st gear problems
- Thread starter Munch
- Start date
Tiddlesrx7
New member
That looks pretty wet to me.
I recorded another video, this time I am on the bike and first gear.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDcH_Xj4-P8&feature=youtu.be
I have barely any room so it's literally first gear > WOT > turn around > first gear > WOT.
You can hear it bogging to hell in the above vid and you can also probably hear how it sounds good and pulls well right up until WOT.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDcH_Xj4-P8&feature=youtu.be
I have barely any room so it's literally first gear > WOT > turn around > first gear > WOT.
You can hear it bogging to hell in the above vid and you can also probably hear how it sounds good and pulls well right up until WOT.
Tiddlesrx7
New member
If its bogging down and your plug is wet like that, I would say your running too rich. But I am far far away from being an expert!
Ade
Ade
You don't have a cable operated choke, by chance? The kind that runs up to the handlebars.. ?
No I do not
They tend to be more trouble than they're worth, had to rule it out.
Have you tried any other jets to see if it makes a measurable difference? Honestly, it sounds a little sputtery/rich.. but it's hard to tell.
The only other main jet I have is a 172, I thought changing to that is just gonna throw me waaay too lean so didn't even try it.
It's just driving me nuts because I was running fine a few days before and now I go to take it out and its spluttering like hell.
Alright I will give it a try tomorrow I was just afraid of blowing the motor lol.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
A change between clip position 2 and 4 is a drastic change and should be extremely noticeable.. But mostly in the 1/4 to 1/2 throttle range.
The main will influence your wide open throttle response.
As per previous post, did you 100% remember the o-ring on the clutch side of the crank shaft before installing the bushing/sleeve and nut?
Also with your little tests make sure the engine is up to operating temp and cleared out before coming to any conclusions. I've made the mistake of tuning around the yard before, only to find what works under low loads falls flat out in the bush in the higher gears.
The main will influence your wide open throttle response.
As per previous post, did you 100% remember the o-ring on the clutch side of the crank shaft before installing the bushing/sleeve and nut?
Also with your little tests make sure the engine is up to operating temp and cleared out before coming to any conclusions. I've made the mistake of tuning around the yard before, only to find what works under low loads falls flat out in the bush in the higher gears.
barossi73
Gold Level Site Supporter
Have you changed to clip4 in your latest test,you dont say
Try clip2 then or if you try 172 stick to short full throttle bursts.if it helps get hold of a 178 and 175.remember the main is only 3/4 to full so if its blubbing before that point...clip2.
With the main you want it just lean enough to run clean.whats your altitude/temperature?
My bad,i just reread last page.i may have to reread 20 pages shortly to remind myself of the whole picture.
If jet changes arent noticeable it tends to imply something else is going on.apart from mechanical setup that jakobi has mentioned,im back to thinking,float level,filter,petcock intake,fueltank breather
Stick to 1 change at a time,your post suggests you richened the clip and leaned the main at same time.one cancels the other to some degree
Try clip2 then or if you try 172 stick to short full throttle bursts.if it helps get hold of a 178 and 175.remember the main is only 3/4 to full so if its blubbing before that point...clip2.
With the main you want it just lean enough to run clean.whats your altitude/temperature?
My bad,i just reread last page.i may have to reread 20 pages shortly to remind myself of the whole picture.
If jet changes arent noticeable it tends to imply something else is going on.apart from mechanical setup that jakobi has mentioned,im back to thinking,float level,filter,petcock intake,fueltank breather
Stick to 1 change at a time,your post suggests you richened the clip and leaned the main at same time.one cancels the other to some degree
My testing area was super small and I couldn't get a real good test, also the bike was never the same temp throughout them.
Tomorrow I'll get a much better test done as I will be at the forrest and I can open it up ect.
The thing making me think it's not mechanical is the fact I had it running good on 2 previous occasions AFTER my rebuild also wouldn't it blow weird smoke and make me lose gearbox oil?
First time I used the bike for approx 15min then the powervalve mechanism broke so I rode it for approx 45min w/o powerband, went great. No spluttering/bogging just no top end power due to powerband not working.
Second time was after I fixed the powervalve I ran it for around 10minutes on the road, WOT through gears 1-6. Worked perfect.
I have spoken to a buddy and he has reminded me of a few things, I have done the below since that road test.
That is literally all thats changed.
Also when I was testing things today I was doing one thing at a time.
Tomorrow I'll get a much better test done as I will be at the forrest and I can open it up ect.
The thing making me think it's not mechanical is the fact I had it running good on 2 previous occasions AFTER my rebuild also wouldn't it blow weird smoke and make me lose gearbox oil?
First time I used the bike for approx 15min then the powervalve mechanism broke so I rode it for approx 45min w/o powerband, went great. No spluttering/bogging just no top end power due to powerband not working.
Second time was after I fixed the powervalve I ran it for around 10minutes on the road, WOT through gears 1-6. Worked perfect.
I have spoken to a buddy and he has reminded me of a few things, I have done the below since that road test.
- Fixed gear shifting issue, spring was put in wrong
- Changed oil from 10w40 to 5w30
- Plugged in map switch (orange & black on the black box) - REVERTED SOON AFTER SPLUTTERING NO DIFFERENCE
- Plugged in an "on/off" switch that toggles headlight/sidelight - REVERTED SOON AFTER SPLUTTERING NO DIFFERENCE
That is literally all thats changed.
Also when I was testing things today I was doing one thing at a time.
- Change from 3rd clip to 4th
- Changed from 4th clip to 2nd
- Changed from 178 main to 180
- Changed from 2 turns out on airscrew to 1.5
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Good approach.
I didn't read which needle you are using but if it's the stock needle (N1EF) and you're in the 20C temps, and a couple hundred above sea level I wouldn't hesitate going to a 172 main and even trying top clip and a 40 pilot. Even if it's just for a test.
What was your jetting spec when it ran well? I'd be inclined to go back to there as a starting point. Fresh fuel, clean air filter (check you haven't stuffed a rag in the airbox/intake), new plug gapped up. See what she does. Adjust as required given the info above.
barossi73
Gold Level Site Supporter
Reading back thru p1-10 i noticed you were unsure how many base gaskets to use on barrel.the advice was to keep the same thickness as before.you didnt state wether you did that.if you have gone thinner,you have raised compression and altered port timing/duration which could kill topend rev.can you clarify?
If you pull the exhaust you can view in the port.remove sparkplug and rotate carefully with cranknut under ignition cover (lhs)until piston is at lowest point,then measure with feeler guage how much piston is sitting above lower port edge.
Also is it possible that the ignition timing is altered from rebuild or did you mark it on dissassembly and line it back up correctly?
If you pull the exhaust you can view in the port.remove sparkplug and rotate carefully with cranknut under ignition cover (lhs)until piston is at lowest point,then measure with feeler guage how much piston is sitting above lower port edge.
Also is it possible that the ignition timing is altered from rebuild or did you mark it on dissassembly and line it back up correctly?
I dont think its gasket related because ive had it running fine since rebuild.
Also had it running good with:
178 main
42 pilot
Clip 3
I'm going to get 10l of fresh fuel, 5l mixed 50:1 and 5l mixed 60:1 and give that a try one mix at a time.
Also I did mark my stator but it rubbed oft by the time I put it back together. It seemed like the stator plate could only go in 1 way though..
Also had it running good with:
178 main
42 pilot
Clip 3
I'm going to get 10l of fresh fuel, 5l mixed 50:1 and 5l mixed 60:1 and give that a try one mix at a time.
Also I did mark my stator but it rubbed oft by the time I put it back together. It seemed like the stator plate could only go in 1 way though..
Last edited:
