HOw do i go DC on my ec300

[Leon_gasgas]

Do Not Do The Stator Mod!

Hi!

As I wrote yesterday I connected only the yellow wire to the "trailtech" dc reg. Today after 2 hours drive I measured the voltage at the battery with the front light on. It was between 14.40 to 14.75 volts max (high rpm). Pretty good and better than the 14V when I had connected both stator wires together! The battery's cycle use is between 14.40 and 15V. So the whole system is OK. I have to say that last week the trailtech helmets lights flickered sometimes. The hid headlight was ok. I am sure that they won't flicker again! Steve the measurements you gave are really off. Is it a gasgas 2K3 or KTM 2K3?

Many Thanks you put here the link from bajadesigns with a clear diagram on how to go hid without modifying the stator!

Leon

 

[steve davies]

need to ck the meter

The stator is a 2k3 gaser,the meter should not read above 14 volts if it does the trail tec isn't doing it's job, so you may just be over charging but I really doubt it. Most of the meters we use are calerbrated at least twice a year and they are off after about 3 weeks.so you will have different values.I am useing a 5.2 amph battery and that will also factor in on what you read at the head light. My Hid uses 3.1 at running and needs 3.8 to start.It trims out after about 45 seconds and drops in amp for about 2 minets. the numbers I gave are all at idle. The whole thing is aples and oranges.your reads will differ from mine but they are in the ball park. As long as it works and your happy.
I'm going to do my other 250 and I'm willing to bet there will be slight differences but as long as the are within range I won't be bothered buy it.
All the large gen sets we test are all over the map we trim til they are close, unless we are going to make parelle units it really isn't that important.
Your chargeing,lights work and no smoke ,lifes good.

 

[Leon_gasgas]

I am sure the voltmeter is fine because it's the same model as my friend's meter and they read similar values on the same bike. I am really happy with the whole system now and the "trail tech" reg is doing its job fine staying between 14.40 and 14.75V without killing the battery...

The only questions in my head are about the two coils and how they work. When they are connected together there is some waste of energy probably going back to the coils and probably killing the stator. Did the lamp work because there is difference in power between the two coils or because they are in different phases? It seems that when you take power from the yellow wire, the power available from the white wire is quite low.

 

[GMP]

Did the lamp work because there is difference in power between the two coils or because they are in different phases?

The test lamp lit because the phase difference causes a voltage potential between the outputs at any given point in time. If your really ambitious, connect a dual trace oscilloscope, trigger on one output and you should see the phase angle offset of the second output.

 

[Leon_gasgas]

Thank you for the info!

I just wanted to add that now the hid helmet lights (26W total) don't work. The start up but after a minute are off. The power from the stator is not enough for them. The hid headlight works fine. If you want to run more than one hid light then you have to rewound the coils.

 

[Gregarious]

This might require a different thread, but is a battery required for the simplest of light setups? Does the EC that comes with turn signals, high/low beam, etc. have a battery or does it just run off the stator?

I want to add a barely-legal headlight, brakelight, etc. to my 07 EC 300 just so I can run forest roads between trails. The simplest & cheapest solution would be the best...

 

[GMP]

"Legal" depends on the state's DMV code, and what your looking for (fully street legal, enduro legal, etc.)

From the looks of your bike in the photos, its an early '07 with a 2K-3 ignition (large), and no switch clusters. Basically a DE configuration with the big ignition. The lights are run right off the stator AC, on both the EC and DE. On the Euro EC with the full harness, there is a small rectifier to provide rough DC to the turn signals and horn, it was never designed to run with and charge a battery.

If you don't need the lights to stay on with the motor off, forget the battery and its weight/complication. Likewise, you may not need turn signals and be able to just use hand signals. All the bikes come with brake light switches F&R.

I agree, keep it simple and light with minimal wiring.

 

[slocalspode]

GMP wrote:
I agree, keep it simple and light with minimal wiring.
----------------------
I agree also, but if you have read the whole thread. Some of us like
the abuse of trying to wire in a battery and go "Full street legal"
Let me relate a little story that happened to me a couple weeks
ago.
I was getting on my bike after leaving work. It was after 6:00PM,
so it was dark. A friend stopped to talk to me while I was getting
the bike unlocked and started. This put a kink in my routine of
unlocking the bike and turning "on" the gas. Saying goodnight
I fired up the bike and started home. I get to the first LARGE
intersection, pull up to the red light and sit. BTW, I live in Los Angeles
near the LAX airport. Just as the light turns green and I take off, the
bike sputters to a stop and dies. Leaving me right in the middle of
two main streets. No lights..nothing. I can't reach the petcock with
my gloved hands. I kick like a fool while a flood of LA traffic flies past
me in their rush to get home. All I could do was wave my arms and
pray for good luck as I pushed the bike across the intersection dodging
cars till I got to the curb. Frightened the crap out of me. Thus my motivation
to get my GasGas'es equipped with a battery and a switch to allow me
to run all my lights without the engine running.
Depending on your needs will determine how much effort you are willing
to devote to putting lights on your bike.
The stock stators, either the 2K2 or the 2K3 will run the 35watt standard
headlight bulb and tail light.
Cheers, Jeff in So. Cal.

 

[Gregarious]

GMP wrote:
I agree, keep it simple and light with minimal wiring.
----------------------
I agree also, but if you have read the whole thread. Some of us like
the abuse of trying to wire in a battery and go "Full street legal"
Let me relate a little story that happened to me a couple weeks
ago.

I think GMP was just acknowledging my post about the minimum needed to get a headlight and brake light working. Obviously if you're riding in traffic that's a whole other story.

 

[GMP]

Thats correct. You have to remember these are designed as race bikes. Its great you guys are doing this and sharing your experiences. I have read the thread, as well as contributed. I am aware of peoples various needs/wants, I just identify with Gregarious and his desire to keep the bike as simple as possible.

Can you actually still get a dual sported EC through CA inspection so its "fully street legal"? I didn't think that was possible anymore. Here we can't even get a plate for the newer bikes so the conversions are pointless. Just the 2-stroke sound will draw cops like a magnet.

 

[slocalspode]

True. You can no longer get an "off-road" bike converted here in Ca.
That ended on Jan. 31 2004 for all bikes manufactured in 2003 and
earlier.
The bike I was riding is my 1998 EC250 that has had a plate since
around 2000 or so. I do get lots of looks when I ride it on the street.
I also get the chance to meet some of LA's finest every now and then.
All of them (so far) have been super nice. They just ask to check the
registration and we spend a few minutes chatting about how cool a
2-stroke is to ride on the street. It is quite a conversation piece and
a good way to meet other cool motorcycle riders.
Jeff,
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
GMP wrote:
Can you actually still get a dual sported EC through CA inspection so its
"fully street legal"? I didn't think that was possible anymore. Here we can't
even get a plate for the newer bikes so the conversions are pointless.
Just the 2-stroke sound will draw cops like a magnet

 

[Leon_gasgas]

Hi!

The 98 EC produces more electric power than the newer bikes. It has a Ducati energia system (internal and external coils) as the new TMs. I had one for 3 years. Great bike.

Now to complicate things even more about this DC case. EMX suggests that when you use their dc reg on a 2 stroke KTM 2007 with a 2K3 stator (without floating mod) the wiring should be as follows:

The yellow wire to ground. The white wire to one of the two yellow wires of the rec/reg. The other yellow wire from the reg to ground. Then the red and black wires from regulator to battery. Is this safe for the stator? Do you get this way the max power from the stator? Can somebody comment on that? Steve?

Leon

 

[steve davies]

yep

It seems to me they are trying to float the dc ground of the battery (dc). But i would really like to see the whole diagram of what they are doing just to be sure. You can run both systems on the bike as long as the grounds do not come in contact with one another. Acouple of treads ago there were drawings that show just that,. Yes if that is what they are doing it does work and it an ok way to do it.
steve

 

[Leon_gasgas]

Today I will test this configuration. I rearranged the wires but still I have the yellow wire tapped, not grounded. Yes it is the same as in the diagram you mentioned with the dc ground floated. I wanted to ask because I wasn't sure if connecting to ground one of the two stator wires is safe for the stator.

One guy commented on that and talked about the white wire being at the "head" of the coils offering max power and the yellow wire offering just enough power for the oem lights. That is probably why this white wire existed... He measured 7A on a KTM at just above idle with this configuration.

Let's see now if I can run both hid headlight and helmet lights tonight...

Thank you for the reply!

Leon

 

[Leon_gasgas]

Don't ground any stator wire!

Hi!

Of course you don't ground any external (yellow or white) stator wire. Just tape the one you don't use. I tried only the white wire yesterday and the theory is true. It gives the max power of the stator. Both hid headlight and hid helmet lights (around 70W load) worked great! Even during slow technical rock gardens the stator offers just enough power for these lights. It is close to the limit there seeing the flashing of the trail tech helmet lights' switch but some fake gassing was enough to keep the battery charged.

So, once again, don't do any stator mod if you have the EC model and want to run hid lights.

Leon

 

[wence]

Ok , As I am about to do this mod I thought I would recap on this thread.
To me(from what I have read), it does not matter which way you go re floating or not floating the ground.There is no difference in longevity or end result?
Which is recommended for an Ec300 two stroke with a capacitor instead of a battery?
The stock stator should be ok to run it?
Thanks guys ,
Mark

 

[wence]

Anyone???

 

[slocalspode]

Hey ya'all. My turn to re-visit this post.
I am about the try and get DC from the
stator coil on my 1990 KDX200. It is quite
different that the multi-pole stator like the
2k2 and 2k3 that we have on our GasGas
bikes.
It is a single pole for the lighting circuit
and a smaller single pole for the ignition.
The stator has three wires exiting from the
side cover. Two for the CDI and coil and
one yellow wire for the AC lights.
What do you think? Can I get away without
doing the floating ground modification using
the wiring diagram below?
I e-mailed TrailTech and his short answer was, "NO"
you can not get DC from a stator unless
you do the floating ground modification.
A couple of hours web searching did not
provide me with an answer other that what
the Tech told me.
Thanks, I value your suggestions.
Jeff, So. Cal.

 

[GMP]

I disagree with Trailtech. This will work in theory, as long as the grounds are isolated there will be no problems. The difference is that your DC/battery ground must float from the chassis (AC gnd). This topic was beaten to death before. As an alternative, I would think it would be simple to add an additional gnd wire to float the AC winding if you wish to gnd the DC system to the chassis.

The issue I see is the output winding capacity. I suspect its very limited, probably like a 2K-2, so don't expect to run much. Remember, with a DC conversion there is much less power available to the load using the same winding than the straight AC system. If its light your after, I'd look into the LED lights I reviewed in amother post. 10W @ 12VDC, and the light output approaches a 55W halogen. Certainly way brighter than a stock KDX light.

 

[slocalspode]

Thank you for the reassurance. Unless I find out otherwise. The diagram from
the above post will be how I'll wire up the KDX.
The bike had a complete restoration a couple of years ago. At that time I
sent the stator off to Rickey Stator for a re-wind and upgrade. I think he
said it is supposed to put out around 60-70 Watts. I have not started the
bike since the rebuild, so I can not confirm if there is any more juice
in there or not.
I plan to stick with the stock headlight shell and reflector. It stock bulb is
a 30/30W. I'd like to try and increase that if possible. I have been looking
for a replacement bulb, it is a type "D". I wonder if a halogen H6M would
be too hot and melt the headlight shell? Any thoughts?
Heck, for my intended purpose. The stock headlight would be fine.
I do not (plan) to do much or any night riding with it. It is going to become
a SuperMoto play toy.
Thanks for your thoughts and advise.
Jeff