I did same mod as Leon Gas today, but I left rear/and brakelight AC (35w output). I can use heated grips with that AC output as well. Works fine.
HOw do i go DC on my ec300
- Thread starter mackmack
- Start date
moto9
Silver Level Site Supporter
Great thread, someone should post some pics showing the process.
And it should be a sticky...electrical is probably the most confusing aspect of a motorcycle.
I finished wiring my 08 300 up...I went AC to run the headlight, tail light and blinkers...I didn't want to add a battery.
And it should be a sticky...electrical is probably the most confusing aspect of a motorcycle.
I finished wiring my 08 300 up...I went AC to run the headlight, tail light and blinkers...I didn't want to add a battery.
Can someone give the pros and cons of these two approaches. I have an 04 EC300 with the full OEM light kit. I would like to add a battery so I could have lights if the engine dies. I've done some night enduros, and it's dark in the woods. Also, I'm going to start riding my bike to work, and for safety would like the lights to work without the engine running.
I'll probably just stick with the stock headlight, but do like the option of running LEDs, which I believe require DC.
Finally, I have a helmet light that will run off either, but if there is an advantage to running it off AC (more efficient?), then if having an isolated DC system allows that, it may be the route I want to go.
Thanks,
MCP
Work required is similar but different. The floating AC requires the generator removing and modifying. This allows the existing grounds for lights to remain in place. Floating the DC system, does not need any mods to the generator side of things. But the whole DC system needs the earths tying back to the battery or capacitor and off the frame.
For me floating the DC is the best solution. Hence writing an install how to (now a sticky)
If you want lights that are bright all the time, at idle and full throttle, DC is the only way to go. You choose floating AC or floating DC, which ever you are most comfortable with with - either will work.
I used Trailtech battery (under side panel beside air filter) and Trailtech rectifier/regulator and installed a 65w full size halogen headlamp (Ricky Stator) and led flashers and tail light.
For me floating the DC is the best solution. Hence writing an install how to (now a sticky)
If you want lights that are bright all the time, at idle and full throttle, DC is the only way to go. You choose floating AC or floating DC, which ever you are most comfortable with with - either will work.
I used Trailtech battery (under side panel beside air filter) and Trailtech rectifier/regulator and installed a 65w full size halogen headlamp (Ricky Stator) and led flashers and tail light.
Having read this thread and many others, I think I have a good understanding of what needs to be done in each scenario, but am still not sure how to decide what path to take.
I will take a stab at answering my own question, and maybe someone can confirm or deny what I say.
Option 1: Float the AC Ground
Pros: simplifies installation of any future accessories/lights since you can ground everything to the frame.
Consistent light output (no drop at idle)
Cons: Requires modification to the stator wiring itself
Option 2: Isolate the DC Ground
Pros: No mods to the stator wiring
Can still use AC if you want (any practical advantage to this?)
Cons: Need to maintain separate ground path for all DC components
Risk of damaging something if you short to the frame?
What I feel is missing from my list:
Is DC less efficient than AC (maybe a reason to keep AC power available?)
Is there a cost difference in regulators for either option?
I think both options can utilize a battery, so no difference there.
Does that about cover it?
Thanks,
MCP
I will take a stab at answering my own question, and maybe someone can confirm or deny what I say.
Option 1: Float the AC Ground
Pros: simplifies installation of any future accessories/lights since you can ground everything to the frame.
Consistent light output (no drop at idle)
Cons: Requires modification to the stator wiring itself
Option 2: Isolate the DC Ground
Pros: No mods to the stator wiring
Can still use AC if you want (any practical advantage to this?)
Cons: Need to maintain separate ground path for all DC components
Risk of damaging something if you short to the frame?
What I feel is missing from my list:
Is DC less efficient than AC (maybe a reason to keep AC power available?)
Is there a cost difference in regulators for either option?
I think both options can utilize a battery, so no difference there.
Does that about cover it?
Thanks,
MCP
GMP
Active member
James,
It depends on what you want to run on DC. If your intent is a full blown dual sport type setup with battery then the stator mod and DC grounded frame may be the way to go. If you just want to add better lighting like LED or HID then an isolated DC system just for the lights is cleaner.
The 10W LED lights use an internal driver and require 9 to 30 VDC, HID similar but higher power requirements. Two of these lights on my Ducati Hypermotard make the 55W halogen headlight irrelavant. They are also small and totally bulletproof, perfect for rugged offroad use. Being only 20w total (3.4A @ 12V) its easy to get a lot of light out of the stock stator. I will be trying this myself, to run a pair of VisionX LED driving lights on an isolated DC system from a 2K-2 ignition. Lights, rectifier/regulator, capacitor, switch and connector, no battery needed. Everything will be mounted to the back of a number plate.
It depends on what you want to run on DC. If your intent is a full blown dual sport type setup with battery then the stator mod and DC grounded frame may be the way to go. If you just want to add better lighting like LED or HID then an isolated DC system just for the lights is cleaner.
The 10W LED lights use an internal driver and require 9 to 30 VDC, HID similar but higher power requirements. Two of these lights on my Ducati Hypermotard make the 55W halogen headlight irrelavant. They are also small and totally bulletproof, perfect for rugged offroad use. Being only 20w total (3.4A @ 12V) its easy to get a lot of light out of the stock stator. I will be trying this myself, to run a pair of VisionX LED driving lights on an isolated DC system from a 2K-2 ignition. Lights, rectifier/regulator, capacitor, switch and connector, no battery needed. Everything will be mounted to the back of a number plate.
